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Attractive radiator covers go a long way to improve any room. Not only do they hide or at least camouflage the heating coils, but they also provide additional shelf space if suitable insulation is used under the wood tops. Studies have proved, too, that well-designed radiator covers or cabinets do not interfere with the over-all efficiency of the heating system

RADIATOR covers go a long way toward dressing up those unsightly radiators that are found in most homes provided with central heating. If insulated on the under face with asbestos, Celotex or rock wool, the covers will provide a surface for books and other appointments that help improve the appearance of a room. In the summertime, of course, radiator covers provide an excellent place for the display of plants and flowers.

The accompanying photographs show two radiator covers. The modern design is rather formal and requires a fair amount of skill for its construction; the other is well within the capabilities of any home craftsman to build without any difficulty.

The cover with the rounded ends does not require the use of a grille, but uses the radiator itself to produce the effect shown. Mahogany plywood is used for all surfaces that are visible, and any hardwood for the interior framework that cannot be seen.

Construction is started with the end units as shown in Fig. 3. The framework of each unit consists of four forms and two posts. The posts are made of 1/2″ × 1 1/2″ stock and, as shown in Fig. 5, should be 3/4″ longer than the overall height of the radiator. The forms are made of 3/4″ × 4 1/2″ stock at least 15″ long.

The layout of the form, as shown in Fig. 1, is based on a radiator the front of which is located no more than 10 1/2″ from the wall. Should it be necessary to make a cover deeper than this, the 2″ dimension can be increased accordingly without changing the 9″ radius. A full-size pattern of the form should be laid out and then traced on the stock. The forms are then cut to shape. The posts are fastened to the forms with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flathead screws as shown in Fig. 2.

The 1/8″ mahogany-faced plywood panel should be the same length as the post. The width can best be determined by actually measuring with a steel tape the area to be covered and then cutting the panel at least 1″ wider. The back of the panels may be scored slightly on the bench saw to facilitate bending around the forms.

The panels are glued to the forms. Glue is spread on all butting surfaces; then the panel is placed over the form and clamped to the posts as shown in Fig. 4. The panel is later trimmed flush with the form. As shown in Fig. 5, the surface which comprises the end of the panel and the edge of the post is faced with mahogany veneer.

The top and lower rails, as shown in Fig. 3, can now be prepared. The top rail is made of 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ stock at least 3″ longer than the required opening of the cover, which should be equal to the overall length of the radiator. The purpose of the extra 3″ is to allow for cutting and fitting the ends. The lower rail is 1/2″ × 3″ stock, 1 1/2″ longer than the opening. This member is joined to the end units by means of mortise-and-tenon joints as shown in Fig. 3. Screws are used to secure the top rail to the forms, and glue is used for joining the tenons on the lower rail to their respective mortises cut in the posts.

The top is 3/4″ plywood with mahogany facing. It is cut to fit flush with the outer contour of the assembled lower section as shown in Fig. 5. A band of mahogany veneer 1 1/2″ wide is applied to the outer edge of the top.

Finishing of the cover will require the use of stain, a paste filler, a coat of shellac and several coats of clear varnish or lacquer.

The second radiator cover, as shown in the smaller photograph and in Figs. 6 and 7, can be made of almost any clear stock. The 3/4″ thick end members must be 1 1/2″ wider than the depth of the radiator from the wall and 1 1/2″ longer than the height of the radiator. The lower ends are cut out as in Fig. 6 to produce feet.

Two side rails made of 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ stock and cut 3 3/4″ shorter than the length of the end members, are now prepared. The lower end of each side rail is notched to take the lower rail as shown in Fig. 6. These pieces are screwed to the inside face of the end members, the upper end of the rail being placed 3/4″ below the top of the end members. Cleats 3/4″ square are fastened as shown in Fig. 6 for securing the prepared top panel.

The upper and lower rails are 3/4″ 1 1/2″ and as long as the required inside length of the cover as shown in Fig. 7. The metal grille, which can be obtained in almost any large hardware store or building supply house, is cut to fit on the rails and is secured with 1/2″ No. 4 flathead screws. Half-round molding 3/4″ wide is then applied with 1″ brads.

The top is 3/4″ stock cut 1 1/4″ wider than the end members and 3″ longer than the inside length of the radiator cover. This piece is secured to the framework by driving 1 1/4″ No. 7 flathead screws up through the cleats and upper front rail and into the under face of the top.

The finish depends on individual choice. If the cover is to be painted, it should be given a coat of shellac, then two coats of interior gloss or semigloss paint in whatever color is desired. For a stained finish the stain is applied and followed by paste filler if the cover has been made of open-grain wood. This treatment is followed by a coat of shellac and two coats of clear varnish or lacquer. The kind of wood used for construction will help to determine the most appropriate finish.