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Dresser FOR COLONIAL SETTINGS

Easily constructed pine dresser and hanging shelves display best china while staring linen and silver

DINING rooms and breakfast nooks having Colonial furnishings will become more charming settings by the addition of these simple, old-fashioned pieces. Made in two separate parts, the set illustrated here provides more freedom in room arrangement than would the conventional type of one-piece dresser. Either piece may be built and used by itself. All the conveniences of storage are to be found in the cupboard for linens and the commodious drawer for silver. The shelf, too, affords storage of china but is intended chiefly for display of best pieces.

Construction of the cupboard is started with the sides. It will be necessary to glue up two pieces of 3/4″ stock to obtain a panel which can be finished to a width of 17″. The pieces should be doweled together. After the panels have been made up they are finished to the correct size, 17″ × 32 1/4″. A 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet is cut along the back edge, on the inside face of these members, to take the back. The location of the bottom, shelf and drawer support frame should be established on the inside face of these side members. The bottom and shelf panels are made up by doweling together two pieces of 3/4″ stock 8″ and 10″ wide. The bottom is finished to a width of l6 3/4″ and a length of 28 1/2″, while the shelf should measure 16″ × 28 1/2″. These members are fastened to the sides with 8-penny finishing nails. The bottom should be flush with the outside edge of the side members, while the shelf should set back 3/4″ from this edge. The drawer support frame is made of 3/4″ × 3″ stock which is assembled by means of dowel joints. After the frame has been glued it is fastened in place in the same manner as the shelf and bottom.

The top panel is glued up of two pieces to an overall size of 17 3/4″ × 31 1/2″. A 1/4″ × 3/8″ stopped rabbet is cut on the under face of the back edge to take the back panel. The rabbets stop within 7/8″ of each end. The greater part of the rabbet can be cut on the bench saw, but the trimming of the corners must be done by hand with a chisel. The back panel is fastened in place with 1 1/4″ brads at this time to keep the case square. The stiles on each side of the door are cut to size and fastened in place with 2″ brads. The top is set in place and fastened to the sides with 8-penny finishing nails. The plinth is made up of 3/4″ × 3 1/2″ stock cut to the lengths shown in the drawing. The butting ends are mitered, then the members are fastened to the case with 1 1/2″ brads. The door is made up of two pieces glued together. Hinges and latch are fastened in place last.

The drawer sides and back are made of 1/2″ stock, while the front is 3/4″. Two pieces 4 1/2″ wide and 16 1/2″ long will be required for the sides. The front requires a piece 4 1/2″ wide and 28 1/2″ long. These three pieces must have a 1/4″ groove, 1/4″ deep, cut on the inside face 1/4″ above the lower edge to take the bottom. The ends of the front member are rabbeted 1/2″ × 1/2″ on the inside face. The two side members have a 1/2″ dado, 1/4″ deep, cut across the inside face, 3/4″ from the end, to take the back drawer member. The back is a piece of stock 4″ × 28″. The bottom is a piece of 1/4″ plywood 16 1/4″ × 28″. All members are assembled with glue and brads. The drawer pulls may be turned, or ordinary wooden door stops may be cut down and used as shown in the main photograph.

The sides, top and shelves of the hanging portion of this unit are made of 3/4″ stock, while the back is made of 1/2″ material. The molding used under the top is a piece of 3/4″ × 1 3/4″ bed molding. A full-size pattern of the scrolled sides should be enlarged on 1″ graph squares. The pattern is traced on the stock, 8 1/2″ × 37 1/2″, and the scroll is cut on the jig saw or band saw and finished smooth with file and sandpaper.

The location of the three shelves should be established on the inside face of the side members according to dimensions given in the front view. The back edge of the side members has a 1/2″ × 1/2″ rabbet cut along the inside face to take the back paneling. This rabbet starts at the top and extends down as far as the bottom of the lower shelf.

The three shelves may now be cut to size. The top shelf is 7″ wide, the center shelf 7 1/2″ wide and the bottom shelf 7 3/4″ wide. All three shelves measure 28 1/2″ long. The apron is made of a piece of stock finished to a width of 3 1/2″ and a length of 30″. The shelves are fastened in place with glue and 2 1/2″ brads or 8-penny finishing nails with heads set below the surface of the side member. The apron is set in place and fastened to the side members with 1 3/4″ brads.

MOLDING FITS RABBETED TOP

The top is made of a piece of stock 8 3/4″ wide and 32 1/2″ long. A 1/2″ × 1 1/4″ rabbet is cut on the front edge and two ends as shown in the detail sketch. Along the back edge a 1/2″ × 1/2″ rabbet is cut to take the back paneling. The top is fastened to the sides and apron with 1 3/4″ brads driven through the top and into these members. The bed molding is set in the rabbet of the top as shown in the drawing and photograph. The molding is cut to fit in place and mitered at the ends which form the corners, but left square at the cabinet back. It is fastened in position with 1 1/4″ brads.

The back is made of random widths of 1/2″ stock 30 3/4″ long. These pieces should have tongue-and-groove edges. The exposed face of the stock may have the edges finished as a V-joint or they may be beaded. The back is nailed in place by driving 1 1/2″ brads through the back and into the shelves and top. The work should be sandpapered thoroughly with No. 1 sandpaper and finished with No. 00. All nail holes should be filled and if necessary sandpapered again.

The completed cabinet and shelves should be given a coat of stain. This is followed with at least two coats of shellac which should be rubbed down with steel wool. The work should be dusted thoroughly to remove all particles of steel wool before paste wax is applied. Several coats are required, and from time to time additional coats should be added to retain a protective coat.