Читать книгу Simplex Munditiis, Gentlemen - Mortimer Delano de Lannoy - Страница 5

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Indoors or outdoors, morning wear consists of the following, as the tastes of the wearer may dictate.

The Head.—The black felt derby is the proper hat for morning. The light brown in derbys is a pleasing change for spring, summer, or fall wear. But never be without a black derby, as it is the hat worn when not in formal dress.

A derby is never worn with a frock body-coat, a cutaway body-coat, a Cowes body-coat, on a dress body-coat. It belongs entirely to the walking or sack body-coat.

Have your hats made to order. You will be better pleased in the end.

The derby is proper and becoming to men of all ages. I would caution any one against wearing such derbys as are of a pearl, gray, drab, slate, and cigar browns. These are all in bad taste. The slouch felt hat is ignored by gentlemen. If a man desires light shades of derbys, then let him have them the same shade as the suit he wears them with.

The Hand.—Gloves for morning wear should be a dark tan, and made of kid.

Heavy weight for the winter months, and very light for summer.

Raw seams and arrow-back stitching is the style. Generally one button only on wrist.

The leading furnishing shops are recommended for gloves.

If possible, have your gloves made to order; you are then sure of a perfect fit.

Never wear a glove after it becomes soiled. It is just as bad as having dirty hands.

The Foot.—Calf-skin, patent leather, and enamel leather, are used for walking shoes. They should be made with moderately thick soles, taper at the toes, and lace.

It is best to have shoes made to order. Nothing about a man’s dress is so quickly noticed as ill-fitting shoes.

The Body.—The body-coat: This is a black sack body-coat, either double or single breasted. Both styles are correct. The materials used are thibets, cheviots, and black serges. At present they are made with four buttons, very wide collars, and very long in the body.

The waistcoat: This always matches the body-coat in material and pattern. Likewise, it may be double or single breasted. It is not necessary, in this respect, for it to match the body-coat.

Trousers: These may be of any material and pattern. They may match the material of the body-coat, or not, as the taste of the wearer may dictate. It is better taste to wear dark trousers with morning wear. See that your trousers have the proper cut, and fit perfectly. This is at once the most difficult to fit, and the ugliest part—if ill-fitting—of the attire for men. Therefore, give it the most attention. In order to have them cut correctly you must rely on the fashion-plate and its accompanying directions. Insist on your directions being followed by the tailor.

There is also the cutaway suit for morning wear. This is worn mostly by elderly and heavily built men. It consists of a cutaway body-coat four buttons, waistcoat single-breasted, and trousers. These three pieces are always of the same material and pattern. The same things are worn with this as with the sack body-coat.

Heavy cloths for winter and light weights for summer wear.

The sack body-coat becomes all men, tall or short, thin or stout, old or young.

Fancy serge waistcoats, also fine linen waistcoats, and sashes in summer, may be worn with the sack body-coat.

Never wear trousers and waistcoat of one pattern, and body-coat another; it is exceeding bad taste.

Suits, perfectly correct and very elegant, are made of selected materials.

The sack body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers are always, in this case, from the same piece of goods. Some beautiful materials of light shades are made for summer wear. For winter wear darker and slightly heavier materials are used.

A Morning Promenade Dress.—This consists of frock body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers. These three pieces are always cut from the same material and pattern. The body-coat and waistcoat may be single or double-breasted.

Only light shades or patterns of cloths are used. Never have this promenade dress in black. The correct head covering is the black silk top-hat with this promenade dress.