Читать книгу Simplex Munditiis, Gentlemen - Mortimer Delano de Lannoy - Страница 7

Table of Contents

This is the culmination of grandeur in the dress of gentlemen. Bulwer’s novel “Henry Pelham” is responsible for the almost complete blackness of the attire for this otherwise gayest time of day.

The Head.—The black silk top-hat is supreme and only here, as in afternoon dress. Same style as that worn for afternoon dress. The crush opera-hat is entirely out of style in this city. When indoors, the top-hat should be carried in the left hand. The exceptions to this rule are dances, evening receptions, and dinners.

The Hand.—The white kid glove goes with evening dress, and must always be worn with it, except at or during a dinner.

The back stitching may be self or black.

Pearl or gray shades are sometimes worn. No other covering should be worn on the hand after 6 P. M.

If one travels through the streets and on the cars, the best glove to wear—and perfectly proper—is the black kid glove, with black stitching, worn only while en route.

Never wear tan-colored or any light shades of gloves with evening dress, indoors or out-of-doors. It is bad taste, and looks, as it is, shoddy. You may wear white evening gloves at any time or place after 6 P. M., and you are not complete in your dress unless you so do.

The Foot.—Dancing pumps are little worn in this city, in fact they are passé. The climate is such, a man could never be out of his carriage, if he wore pumps, without risk of a catarrh.

The proper shoe is made of patent leather, button, kid uppers, and no tips. This is the shoe for evening dress.

Have them made to order, as that is the only way to secure a perfect fit.

The Body.—The evening dress body-coat is always of a black material.

A radical change has taken place in the material used. Dress for evening wear, especially among young men, no longer consists of the heavy, stiff broadcloths and doeskins, but is now made of fine diagonals, of an almost silky texture.

This is the body-coat above all others. Much care should be given the fitting and style. They are made now with shawl collar, and silk lined. Never wear any kind of binding on the body-coat. Do not wear buttons and buttonholes on the sleeve of body-coat. The styles, changing each year, should be followed minutely.

In evening dress one must appear a gentleman, if it is in him at all.

The Waistcoat.—Materials used, same as body-coat, or white silks and black silks. Patterns selected as taste directs. Of course the waistcoat is confined strictly to black or white.

It may be three or four buttons; double or single breasted. It may be low or high. Never wear linen waistcoats for evening dress.

The Trousers.—Black, and always the same material as the body-coat. As much care is given to the set and fit, as to that of the body-coat. Leave out pockets. Wide, black, silk-braided braid is worn on the outside of trouser-legs. Width of legs, medium.

The Cowes or Tuxedo Body-coat.—This is for informal evening and home wear. It is made of the same material as the dress body-coat. Shawl collar. The same things are worn with it as with the dress body-coat. It is worn at home, to informal dinners, the club, and the theater.

For Sunday evenings this is worn in place of the dress body-coat, with dress waistcoat, dress trousers, and black satin cravat. Again, only the top-hat is worn with the Tuxedo body-coat.

Knee-Breeches.—These may be worn in place of dress trousers at any grand ball, reception, or soirée. They are black silk or black satin, or same material as dress body-coat.

In Paris and London they are much worn. Patent leather pumps and black silk stockings are worn. This is the only change in evening dress, when knee-breeches are worn.

Of course, in this attire you must always drive in a closed carriage.

Flowered or figured colored waistcoats, double or single breasted, may be worn; white or black preferred. The dress body-coats may also be in colors as well as black. An elegant attire, such as this, is to be worn for grand formal evening dress.