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THE OVERCOAT
ОглавлениеGreatcoat.—This is a heavy greatcoat, with or without a cape, as fashion or taste may decide. Double or single breasted, long or short. It is worn during the day only, either over morning wear or afternoon dress.
It is most fashionable and elegant when made of some black or dark blue material.
The very latest in this greatcoat is made thus: very long—five inches below knee—no fit, without seam in middle of back—broad shawl collar of black velvet, single-breasted, dark blue box-cloth. It is shoulder-lined with black silk. For afternoon dress wear only.
One may follow his own taste in selecting a material for this day greatcoat.
This is made to wear during the coldest weather. It should be removed immediately on going indoors.
Light Overcoat.—For fall and spring wear. This is box cut, made of a light weight material.
The overcoat for cool days and evening wear, as over evening dress in summer, is of some selected black material. The day overcoat or afternoon walking-coat is of some light pattern, selected according to taste of wearer. These overcoats are now cut very short.
These overcoats are worn over morning wear or afternoon dress, particularly the light shades over the latter.
Driving Overcoat.—This is a box-coat cut long or short. Double or single-breasted. The color should be light, as it will not show dust.
Heavy material is used for winter and light for summer driving.
The Riding Top-coat.—This is a short English box-coat. The material is soft and of medium weight. The color may be light or dark.
The Raglan.—“Lord Chumly,” Inverness, or sleeveless, greatcoat for evening wear.
This is the only greatcoat to wear over evening dress.
It is always black, and with a large, full-length cape.
There are no sleeves, the cape covering the arms completely.
This is the perfect greatcoat to wear over evening dress, as removing and placing on can be accomplished without disturbing in any way the dress.
This greatcoat makes up for the ugliness of the day overcoats in the graceful appearance it gives the wearer.
It is worn at night only, in the carriage, or on the street. It is removed on going indoors.
Ulsters, fur greatcoats, and greatcoats with fur collars and cuffs, may be worn for very cold weather. They are for day wear only.
The Mackintosh.—This is made in any pattern; the inner lining being rubber. With or without cape. Double or single breasted. Light weights for summer and heavy for winter wear.
It is worn by day only. It may be worn with morning wear or afternoon dress. In the latter a top-hat should never be worn with a mackintosh. Only a derby is worn.
In all cloudy, damp, or wet weather the mackintosh appears.
It is not necessary to carry an umbrella.
The mackintosh should be worn very long, and rather loose in fit.
You may follow the fashion-plate as regards the style your greatcoat or overcoat is to be made in.
You will discuss with your cutter the correct thing in seams, linings, buttons, and pockets. These things are constantly changing, and therefore have no fixed rule.
Covered buttons are worn only on light walking overcoats and evening greatcoats.