Читать книгу Simplex Munditiis, Gentlemen - Mortimer Delano de Lannoy - Страница 6

Table of Contents

The Head.—A black silk top-hat. Always of the latest pattern, either Paris, London, or New-York make. All are equally stylish. This hat, above all others, should be made to order; this being necessary if you desire a fit both becoming and comfortable.

In this city spring and summer have light weights. For fall and winter a slightly heavier hat is made. This is the only proper hat for afternoon dress in summer or winter.

The Hand.—Light or dark tan kid walking gloves are worn. The back stitching may be black silk or same shade as the glove. One or two buttons.

Undressed kid gloves, either light or dark shades, are also worn especially for afternoon receptions.

The Foot.—The leathers used are patent, and enamel. Laced Bluchers are worn at this time of day. For summer wear, the same, or the same leathers made in ties. Again, I caution you to pay particular attention to the fit, and have them made to order. You exercise your own taste as to the style the shoe is made in.

The Body.—The proper body-coat is the black cutaway. This is now made with three buttons, and wide collar cut low, single-breasted. The material used is diagonal. This body-coat should be of light weight, as it is a dress body-coat. French Thibets are also used.

The Waistcoat.—This is made of the same material as the body-coat. It may be double or single breasted. The waistcoat should be cut low in front, that the large puff scarf may be well exposed. Four buttons.

Waistcoats may be of selected materials such as fancy serges and fine linens. In summer white or black silk sashes are worn.

The Trousers.—These should be carefully selected and well-fitted. The material and pattern should go well with black, as this is always the color of the afternoon body-coat.

Any pattern, checks, stripes, etc., may be worn for afternoon dress. Never wear loud patterns; they are exceedingly bad taste and rowdyish.

Never wear trousers of the same material as the body-coat or waistcoat, as it is not afternoon dress.

Very light patterns may be worn in summer. In winter slightly darker patterns are worn.

If pockets are placed in trousers they are apt to be used; this spoils the set of the cloth around the hips. Therefore leave them out if possible.

As a rule, the bottoms of trousers should be turned up—about two inches—while walking in the street. Of course, on a clear day this is unnecessary.

Frock Body-coat.—This is the formal afternoon dress body-coat. In Paris the men wear no other.

It is never worn before 4.30 P. M.

It is worn at day weddings, at teas, receptions, and on the promenade.

The material used is the same as in a cutaway body-coat. Always black goods.

The same things are worn with a frock body-coat as with a cutaway body-coat.

It is made single or double breasted.

The wardrobe of a gentleman is never complete without one or more frock body-coats.

The frock body-coat is always worn buttoned. It is worn in summer, but always with a waistcoat.

The cutaway body-coat is worn buttoned in winter, and may sometimes be worn with rolled back collar in summer.

There is also a double-breasted cutaway body-coat, three buttons, always black. This is worn more for promenading than anything else.

This can be worn in winter—on mild days—without a top-coat or greatcoat. The waistcoat matches it and the trousers are selected.

Sometimes, for promenading in the spring, a frock body-coat with waistcoat and trousers of the same piece of goods is worn. In this case the material is some smooth, light-colored pattern.

Again, only a black silk top-hat can be worn with this frock suit.

This suit is worn without a greatcoat or light overcoat.

Afternoon dress is worn at day weddings, afternoon receptions, teas, matinées, exhibitions of all kinds where ladies are present, and when promenading with ladies.