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INTRODUCTION

The Pointe de Chardonnière (2723m) and Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, seen from the Barme aux Corbés (Route 6)

The sheer beauty and variety of the French Alps are compelling reasons to visit and explore some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe. Much visited for winter sports and mountaineeering (and a favourite destination for skiers), the region also offers great opportunities for summer mountaineering activity, hill walking and now via ferratas. Experienced users of via ferratas, looking for a new region to explore, will find plenty of inspiration in this book. Alternatively, if you are planning a holiday in the area and want to try your hand at something different, the easier routes described here will provide a sound introduction to this increasingly popular activity.

Modern via ferratas originate in the Italian Dolomites and were first created in the late 19th century to assist early tourists with mountaineering ascents by replacing ropes with fixed cables and metal rungs. The system was then adopted in World War I to allow the conduct of warfare from the mountaintops by Italian and Austrian troops. In more recent times they have been rediscovered by Italian mountaineering enthusiasts and, in the late 1980s, the first routes were constructed in France.

The via ferratas of the Italian Dolomites can be quite different from the French routes. The former tend to be fixed mountaineering paths, most similar to summer mountaineering routes, whereas the latter are more likely to be sports routes, closer to scrambling or rock climbing. French via ferratas often seek out the steepest and most vertigo-inducing terrain, requiring a reasonable level of fitness and a decent head for heights.

While some of these routes may challenge even experienced rock climbers, the majority should be within the reach of any strong hillwalker. The quality of the fixed protection found on the routes, in the form of cables, rungs and other more exotic elements, is normally very high. This standard is maintained by regular checks carried out under the direction of the local authority and ensures that, if properly used, you should have a safe and enjoyable excursion. Bon courage!

When to go

The via ferratas described in this book are located over a fairly large area, and the range of altitudes at which they are found, from 200m to over 2700m above sea level, is also considerable. A few of the routes may be practicable all year; most, however, will be open from spring until late autumn. In practice, this will vary to a large degree, depending on altitude, latitude and, above all, weather. As the area is predominantly mountainous, the weather can be hard to predict, with heavy snowfall possible, even during high summer. During spring and early summer there may be packed snow on higher-altitude routes. In autumn the weather may well be settled and reasonably warm, but there is also the chance that higher routes may have some fresh snow on them.

The information box at the top of each route lists its recommended season. A handful of routes are also subject to local by-laws (Arrêté Municipal), governing when they may be accessed. Where such restrictions apply, this is also noted at the top of the route. Periodically, routes may also be closed for maintenance.

Satisfied via ferratists enjoy views of the Massif des Bornes from the top of the Via Ferrata Yves Pollet Villard (Route 9)

The French high season runs from early July to late August, with the first two weeks of August being busiest. Routes will be more crowded during this period and accommodation will fill up more quickly. During spring and autumn, accommodation prices are lower, and availability is rarely a problem. September can be a good time to visit, although some tourist services start to close towards the end of the month.

Getting to the Alps

There are plenty of good road, rail and air links between the UK and the French Alps and travel between the two has never been easier. A passport is required to enter France and should be kept on your person at all times as a form of ID (a legal requirement). UK, Irish and other EU citizens do not require a visa. Citizens of the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand can visit the country for up to 90 days without a visa. For further information on entry requirements see www.diplomatie.gouv.fr.

The most conveniently located airport with flights to and from the UK is Geneva. Grenoble and Chambéry currently receive flights from the UK only over the winter (but it may be worth checking if there is a summer schedule when planning your trip). Further afield, Lyon, Nice, Marseille, Basel and Turin all have direct air links with a number of UK airports. Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) offers fast trains that run directly between London and Paris. From there, the French high-speed train (TGV) and local rail network (www.voyages-sncf.com) have links with many of the destinations covered in this book.

It is possible to reach Paris from the UK by bus (www.eurolines.co.uk), which is normally cheaper than Eurostar. There are also buses from the UK to Geneva, Basel, Turin and Aosta. There are numerous ferries between the UK and France, with the Dover to Calais route offering the shortest sea journey (see www.directferries.co.uk for a list of connections). Allow seven to nine hours for the journey from the northern French ports to the Alps.

The Arvieux Valley and western Queyras Massif, seen from the Col d’Izoard (above Route 63)

Getting around

While it is possible to visit many of these routes without the use of a car or public transport, this will not be practical for most people. Travelling by car or motorbike remains by far the most convenient way to visit the area covered. A number of the routes are in remote locations that are not well served by buses or trains.

By car

France has an extensive network of well-maintained roads that, by British standards, can be eerily quiet. A toll is levied on most motorways (Autoroutes) but other roads are mostly free of any charge. Some of the high alpine passes may not be open during the early spring until clear of snow, and may be closed on certain days during the summer for the Tour de France and other events. See Appendix D for websites that give details of such closures.

There is not space here to set out all of the rules of the road, but you should familiarise yourself with them prior to travelling; any infringement of regulations is now taken very seriously by the French police. See www.driving.drive-alive.co.uk for more information. All right-hand drive vehicles must have deflectors affixed to their headlights to avoid dazzling oncoming traffic. Non-French registered vehicles must also display their country of registration (for example GB sticker or plate). Additionally, drivers are required to carry the following: driving licence, proof of vehicle ownership and proof of insurance. Note that French police can stop and search vehicles or ask to see proof of identity. It is a legal requirement that a warning triangle be carried in the car as well as a high-visibility vest for each occupant, which should be kept within reach. From July 2012, it is also mandatory to carry two breathalyser kits in the car.

You should consider carrying snow chains if visiting at any time other than during high summer. They are compulsory in mountainous areas during the winter. If you are hiring a car, you should check that all the aforementioned items are included in the rental, or whether you have to provide them yourself.

For those who use in-car GPS navigational tools, the GPS coordinates of each route are provided at the top of each individual route description. GPS devices can normally be rented as part of car hire, but doing so is typically less cost effective than buying your own or using a mobile app. Finding a petrol station is rarely a problem, although they are increasingly reliant on automated distributors. Such machines normally accept chip-and-pin Visa and Mastercard credit cards. Supermarket stations typically have the lowest prices, with the cost of petrol similar to that in the UK. Diesel is around 10 per cent less expensive.

If you choose to hire a car, you can do so from airports and some larger rail stations, and it is best arranged prior to travelling (see Appendix D). Be sure to check the small print for any hidden charges or excesses and check the vehicle, before driving it, for any marks or damage.

The lower Maurienne Valley, as seen from the top of Via Ferrata du Télégraphe (Route 34)

By rail or bus

France has an excellent rail network, which is serviced by fast and modern trains. Prices are reasonable and delays fairly rare. While this may be very useful in getting to and from the Alps, once in the mountains coverage is largely limited to the main valleys. The cheaper alternative of long-distance bus travel within France is currently extremely limited, but may improve in the future.

The local bus network within each administrative area (Département) varies in quality, but in general covers a fairly wide area with a limited number of journeys per day. If you intend to visit the routes by bus, be prepared for a rather time-consuming and complicated experience. Timetables, which should be studied well in advance, are normally available on the internet (see Appendix D) or through local tourist offices.

On foot or bicycle

Perhaps the most rewarding way to visit the routes detailed here is on foot. While not as easy as taking a car, this will certainly give you the greatest opportunity to enjoy the surrounding countryside. There are lots of long-distance walking paths in the French Alps, a number of which pass close to the via ferratas, and a trip combining both activities is entirely possible. While there is not space here to detail such an itinerary, the GR5 path, for example – as described in Paddy Dillon’s The GR5 Trail (Cicerone: second edition, 2013) – could be combined with a visit to 19 of the routes described, as well as several more to the north and south of the area covered.

Cycling is hugely popular in France, and the Alps are home to a number of the most arduous stages of the Tour de France. In spite of the many narrow winding roads that cross the Alps, cycling in the region is relatively safe as both French law and custom encourage other road users to give bikes plenty of room. For those who enjoy hill climbing, quite a few of the via ferratas are situated close to the most popular passes for this activity. For cyclists who prefer a more sedate approach, there are numerous well-marked bike routes throughout the French Alps, details of which are available from local tourist offices. See Cycling in the French Alps by Paul Henderson (Cicerone: second edition, 2008; reprinted with updates, 2013), for more information.

Language

A lack of spoken or written French should be no bar to visiting the French Alps. The area is a popular tourist destination for many English-speaking people and as such plenty of locals will have at least a smattering of English. This is almost always the case in tourist offices and, to a lesser degree, in businesses catering to tourists, for example accommodation providers or outdoor retailers. That said, a little spoken French will go a long way and even a few words or stock phrases will be appreciated by the locals. Appendix C sets out a brief summary of French phrases and words that may be of use on the via ferratas and in interpreting French maps and signs.

The suspension bridge at the start of Via Ferrata Sportive/Noire (Second part) (Route 58, Stage D)

Costs

In addition to the expense of travelling to and around the Alps, accommodation and food, the cost of the actual activity should be limited. The specific equipment required to use the via ferratas (see Equipment), can be bought from climbing and hillwalking shops or through the internet (see Appendix D). A kit consisting of helmet, harness, self-belaying lanyard, rest lanyard and gloves should cost between £150 and £250. A Tyrolean traverse pulley costs about £55. Within the French Alps, you should be able to purchase these items in most larger towns and villages (although it may be considerably more expensive than doing so before leaving home).

If you prefer to rent the equipment, you can do so for €10–20 per day. Some places will offer rental for longer periods at a better rate, but will require a substantial deposit.

If you wish to hire a guide to accompany you on a via ferrata this will cost between €25 and €60 per person, depending on the route and the number of people in the group. Only two of the routes featured in this book require the payment of a small access fee (Routes 54 and 57). Additionally, a handful of routes involve the optional use of a cable car or funicular, for which a charge of €5–10 is levied.

Accommodation

The majority of towns, villages and resorts will have at least one place to stay, and there will usually be a number of different options. Prices and availability vary a great deal, so be prepared to do some research before you visit to obtain the most suitable accommodation. If you prefer not to book in advance, choices may be limited. However, outside the French high season (mid-July to late August) there is normally little difficulty in obtaining lodgings without an advance booking. During these few weeks – when the French take their holidays en masse – even campsites may be full by late afternoon. Additionally, alpine tourist accommodation often closes for several months during the autumn, so from late September onwards you should book in advance.

Hotels vary in quality, from the luxurious (and expensive), which you can find in major destinations, such as Geneva, to the basic. See www.accorhotels.com for an extensive list of motel-style accommodation. For mid-range hotels, often with some character, see www.logishotels.com, and for something more upmarket see www.viamichelin.com. Note that prices in France are normally per room, not per person. Alternatively, if you wish to rent a small house or cottage (gîte), see www.gites-de-france.com. Typically, these are let on a weekly basis and this can be a good option if you want to stay in one place. This website also lists bed and breakfast options. In France these are known as chambres d’hôte, and tend to be fairly upmarket.

Approaching the defensive fosse above the Falaises de la Bastille. Grenoble and the River Isère are seen in the background (Route 41, Stage B)

For those on a more modest budget, campsites are an excellent option and are by far the most common form of accommodation in the French Alps. Most are spacious and clean and some offer a wide range of facilities (pool, restaurant, wifi and so on), although these tend to be a little more costly. Almost all campsites also offer caravan pitches and many have cabins to rent. The best value campsites are normally Campings Municipal, which are operated by the local commune. A tent pitch (emplacement) for two people with car and electricity typically costs between €12 and €20 per night. There are several websites listing campsites, such as www.campingfrance.com.

Another good budget option is gîtes d’étape. These are the French equivalent of private hostels and normally contain a dormitory as well as private rooms. A bed in the dorm should cost €10–20 per night, and dinner, bed and breakfast (demi-pension) €30–45. See www.gites-refuges.com for a full list. This site also lists mountain refuges, but these will be of limited use as most of the via ferratas are situated at lower altitude in the main valleys. Local tourist offices will also have full details of accommodation in each area. See the individual routes and Appendix D for relevant website addresses.

Maps

It is likely that the majority of readers will visit these routes by car; to that end a good, up-to-date, road atlas is highly recommended. Most of the routes cover a small area and make use of their own purpose-built approach and descent paths. For this reason, a topographical map will be of limited use.

However, for a handful of longer mountain routes such as the Via Ferrata d’Ugine (Route 11) or Via Ferrata l’Aiguillette du Lauzet (Route 51), one may come in handy. In any event, if you plan to extend your outing beyond the via ferrata or just wish to have a better appreciation of the surrounding landscape, a topographical map will be useful. The Institut Géographique National (IGN) produces the standard range of French topographic maps, which are of a similar quality to British Ordnance Survey maps. The most suitable series is the IGN Carte de Randonnée TOP25 series, which has a blue cover. These are widely available from newsagents and tourist offices throughout France and can also be ordered online. The IGN website (www.geoportail.fr), which features scalable topographical and satellite maps, is also extremely useful.

Route grading

(clockwise from top left): typical via ferrata stemple/rung; fingerhold; footplate; small stemple

All the routes in the book have been given three grades. The first is for technical difficulty, the second for exposure, and the third for the seriousness of the surrounding environment.

Technical grade

This indicates the overall technical difficulty of the route or stage and is the most important grading. It is based on how strenuous the route is, the degree of technical movement required, how sustained and/or committing and the difficulty of any bridges or other components requiring balance. The technical grade takes only limited account of the length of the route but gives particular weight to the difficulty of any crux points. Appendix A lists the routes in order of technical grade (1–5) and by approximate difficulty, relative to each other, within each grade.

1 Very few or no strenuous components, involving basic scrambling at most. Suitable for competent and fit hillwalkers.

2 Occasional strenuous moments. Very small overhangs may be present but these are spaced well apart. May also be technical sections requiring some scrambling skills. Suitable for those with such skills or in good physical condition.

3 Fairly strenuous at times, but such moments are well spaced out. Small to medium overhangs may be present. Occasionally, you may be required to clip your via ferrata lanyard under pressure. Possible technical sections requiring good scrambling skills. Suitable for those with such skills or in good physical condition.

4 May contain isolated large overhangs, long fairly strenuous and/or sustained sections. You may be regularly required to clip your via ferrata lanyard under pressure. May involve technically complex sections requiring basic rock-climbing skills. Bridges may require a reasonable sense of balance. Suitable for those with some rock-climbing ability or in very good physical condition.

5 May contain a number of passages that are strenuous, sustained and committing. Technically complex sections, requiring low-grade rock-climbing skills, may be present. You may often have to clip your via ferrata lanyard under pressure. Bridges may require a good sense of balance. Suitable for proven rock climbers or those in excellent physical condition.

Exposure

Exposure is a measure (graded 1–5) of how much empty space there appears to be beneath you and, therefore, how good a head for heights you are likely to require. Routes graded 1 will probably place you near drops of 10 to 20m, with any more exposed positions not being too ‘immediate’. Routes graded 5 will probably involve positions with several tens or hundreds of metres of air directly underfoot. That said, the individual grades do not reflect any specific set of criteria but are solely relative to each other. The grade, ultimately, reflects only the opinion of the author, but should assist readers in assessing whether a route is suitable. Many people find that the more exposure they experience, the less effect it has. So, if you struggle at first with this aspect of via ferratas, persevere and you are likely to find that your head for heights improves.

The exposed ladder (grade 5) at the top of the Grande Dièdre, on Via Ferrata de la Cascade de l’Oule (Route 40, Stage B)

Seriousness

This grade (A–C) indicates the overall seriousness of the environment in which the route is situated. The grade is based on the following criteria: the proximity of the route to towns/villages; altitude; the likely effects of rapidly worsening weather; the danger posed by rockfall, and the general nature of the terrain.

A The route is in or near a town, village or resort. It is at a relatively low altitude and rockfall is not a particular issue. Escape in the event of a sudden deterioration in weather would not normally be problematic.

B The route may be somewhat distant from any population centre and/or at moderately high altitude. Escape from the route in the event of a sudden deterioration in the weather may not be entirely straightforward. Rockfall may be an issue.

C The route is relatively far from any population centre and/or at a relatively high altitude. A sudden deterioration in the weather could have serious consequences. Rockfall may be an issue and the nature of the terrain may demand particular care.

In general, the routes described are situated in comparatively benign settings and the majority are graded A, with only a few graded C. However, it is important to remember that deteriorating weather can cause any route to become a much more serious undertaking. See Dangers for more information on this subject. It is also the case that the nature of terrain can change over time. In particular, rock quality can deteriorate. This has resulted in the temporary or permanent closure of several French via ferratas.

Climbing the third set of bluffs encountered on the Via Ferrata de St-Christophe-en-Oisans, with the River Vénéon directly underfoot (Route 48, Stage A)

The grades assume that a route is undertaken when it is clear of snow and ice, and during periods of reasonable weather. In more challenging conditions, routes may be much harder. Additionally, the technical difficulty of a route can change over time due to polishing of the rock, or minor amendments to the fixed equipment made during inspections.

THE FRENCH GRADING SYSTEM

Many French via ferratas have a semi-official grade, provided by the company that built the route. Typically, these grades run from Facile (easy) to Extrêmement Difficile (extremely difficult). Although the French mountaineering grading system (IFAS) uses the same nomenclature, these two grading systems are entirely unrelated. The individual grades have no defined meaning and the system is not applied consistently to all routes. Therefore, it is not used in this guide.

Equipment

To climb a via ferrata, you will require the following equipment. If in any doubt as to what to get and how to use it, consult with the staff at a climbing shop.

Via ferrata kit (clockwise from top left): VF lanyard with rest lanyard (quickdraw) attached, harness, helmet, gloves, security rope and belay device

Climbing harness

Either a sit harness or a full-body harness can be used, depending on personal preference. It should be comfortable, close-fitting and light, and you must understand how to fasten it correctly. It is strongly recommended that a full-body harness be used for children, or by adults who carry a lot of weight around the waist. In the event of a fall, this form of harness will reduce the possibility of the via ferratist turning upside down. If this happens with an inadequately tightened sit harness, there is a risk that the climber may fall out of it.

Climbing helmet

This should be worn at all times while on the via ferrata or below steep rock. Adjust the helmet for comfort before starting the route.

Three VF lanyards; two with friction plates (left and middle) and one with a progressive tearing device (right)

Via ferrata shock-absorbing lanyard

This consists of a shock-absorbing mechanism and two lengths of kernmantle rope or climbing webbing, on the ends of which are special karabiners designed for via ferratas. The shock-absorbing element may consist of a metal friction device through which the rope runs, or a sealed length of webbing bonded together by stitching, which absorbs energy by progressively tearing apart when put under extreme pressure. A number of these kits are now available from various climbing equipment manufacturers. The style of via ferrata lanyard detailed above is known as ‘Y-shape’. You may encounter the older ‘V-shape’ via ferrata lanyard, where only one half of the lanyard was clipped onto the cable at once. These are now considered obsolete and should be avoided. It is possible to construct a via ferrata lanyard by yourself, but instructions on how to do so are beyond the scope of this book, and it is not recommended.

A via ferrata lanyard attached to the belay loop of a sit harness by a lark’s foot knot

The via ferrata lanyard should be attached to the belay loop of your harness via a lark’s foot knot. Never use a karabiner to attach the via ferrata lanyard to the harness. In the event that such a karabiner is shock-loaded by a dynamic fall, there is a chance that it may break. Any via ferrata lanyard that has been placed under significant stress, such as from holding a fall, is excessively worn, or that has passed its use-by date, should be replaced. Read the instructions that come with the lanyard and follow them. See Moving safely for information on how to use the lanyard correctly.

Taking a rest on the balance beam near the top of Via Ferrata du Grand Bec 1ère Partie, while still securely attached to the cable by a via ferrata lanyard (Route 43, Stage B)

Rest lanyard

In addition to the via ferrata lanyard you should carry another lanyard to hang off when taking a rest in exposed positions. The via ferrata lanyard is typically too long for this purpose and it is better not to put the shock-absorbing element under unnecessary strain. Some proprietary via ferrata lanyards come with an additional loop fitted below the shock absorber, to which a screwgate karabiner can be attached to construct a rest lanyard. With such a design, it is imperative that, when not being used to rest on, the karabiner be left hanging rather than attached to your harness, as this may bypass the shock absorber.

To construct your own rest lanyard, use either a quickdraw with a screwgate karabiner on each end or a climbing sling with one screwgate karabiner. The sling should be attached to the belay loop of your harness via a lark’s foot knot and be just long enough to allow you to rest at a comfortable distance from the rockface. The rest lanyard is intended to assist with resting only, and under no circumstances should be used in place of a shock-absorbing via ferrata lanyard. It will not protect you from the effects of a dynamic fall.

Tyrolean traverse pulley

Routes 15 and 37 both contain an optional Tyrolean traverse, designed to be used with a specific model of pulley. Unfortunately, the models differ, with Route 15 requiring a Petzl Tandem Cable pulley (yellow), and Route 37 a Petzl Tandem Speed pulley (grey). Details of these devices can be found at www.petzl.com. You will also need thick full-finger gloves. See Tyrolean traverses for more information on how to use the pulley.

Additional equipment required for a Tyrolean traverse: pulley, screwgate karabiner and full-finger gloves

SAFETY CHECK

Before purchasing or using any of the equipment listed above check that it is certified to EN Standard or UIAA Standard, how long the item has been in stock (components have a shelf-life), and that it has not been subject to a product recall. There were recalls of well-recognised brands of via ferrata lanyards in both 2011 and 2012, some of which may still be on sale from retailers unaware of those recalls. To check which items have been affected, see www.theuiaa.org/certified_equipment. Always buy your via ferrata gear from a high-quality retailer and always check it before, during and after use. If in any doubt whatsoever, replace it.

Gloves

Whether or not you choose to wear gloves is a matter of personal preference. They will offer protection against general wear as well as cuts caused by frayed cables (which are rare), but may give less grip than bare hands. There are a number of brands of fingerless gloves designed specifically for via ferratas.

Footwear

There is no specific type of via ferrata shoe and you may see people wearing a wide variety of footwear on the routes, from light sandals to heavy mountaineering boots. Whatever you wear, it should be comfortable, and give good grip on rock, ideally with a Vibram sole. Although trainers will often suffice, stiff walking or summer mountaineering boots will probably offer more grip and protection. Larger boots are recommended for the handful of longer mountain routes, such as Via Ferrata Le Roc du Vent (Route 12), but may feel a bit bulky on the more delicate passages found on some via ferratas. Rock-climbing shoes are not required for any of the routes, but may be worth considering on some of the most difficult, particularly for shorter climbers who will be required to use rock holds more often. Rock-climbing approach shoes offer a good compromise, but are expensive. Regular use of via ferratas tends to wear through the soles used on climbing and mountaineering footwear rather quickly.

Clothing

This should be appropriate to the mountainous situation and current weather forecast. Even when mild, it is sensible to carry a warm and waterproof coat, in case of a sudden change in the weather. Via ferratas can take a heavy toll on garments, so whatever you wear should be durable. Before setting off ensure that there is nothing loose in your pockets, any zips are done up, and laces are tightly fastened. Spectacle wearers should consider securing their glasses with a small lanyard.

The following additional items are recommended: mobile phone, whistle, water bottle, emergency blanket, pen and paper, compass, sunscreen, small medical kit and a camera (preferably with an anti-shake feature and on a lanyard to secure it). Consider taking a length of lightweight climbing rope, a belay device and some quickdraws if your party contains children or climbers that require extra security (see Roped progression).

Hiring via ferrata equipment

Via ferrata kits can be hired throughout the region, and in most cases there will be somewhere close to each route that hires out the necessary gear. Local tourist offices often rent out the equipment or will be able to advise on where it can be obtained. Usually, you will be required to leave a deposit of around €20, or your passport. As with your own equipment, thoroughly check all hired gear for any signs of damage prior to use. See above for information on recalled via ferrata lanyards. These should be hired only if you are satisfied that they have been returned to the manufacturer and verified as safe.

The limestone slabs encountered on the first stage of Via Ferrata de Roche Veyrand are protected by numerous stemples for both hands and feet (Route 18, Stage A)

Moving safely

Protection for climbers on a via ferrata takes the form of a cable that is anchored to the rock at regular points. Via ferratists should ensure that they are attached continuously to the cable by both of the karabiners at the end of their via ferrata lanyard, except at the point where they move from one section of cable to the next. At each of these anchor points, take one of the karabiners off the cable, while the other is still attached, and place it around the next section of cable, ensuring that both karabiners are fully closed.

The length of cable between anchors, known as the run-out, varies from one metre to as much as 10m. Normally, the more challenging the movement required on any one passage, the shorter the run-out will be. Assuming you are correctly attached to the cable, this system assures that, in the event of a fall, you will never drop more than a few metres. However, a fall still has the potential to result in injury, and is to be avoided if possible. On longer run-outs, or particularly strenuous overhangs, you can further reduce the potential fall distance by clipping one of the karabiners of your via ferrata lanyard onto a rung or other element of the fixed protection situated between the cable anchor points. This can be moved up from one rung to the next as you progress but, if you do this, the other karabiner should always remain attached to the cable.

A pigs’ tail piton: for use by a roped party

Roped progression

Parties with children, or those requiring extra assurance, should use a rope in addition to the via ferrata lanyard used by each member of the party. The rope should be attached to the belay loop of each person’s harness via a re-threaded figure of eight knot (for the ends) or a figure of eight knot on a bight (for the middle). Keep the rope reasonably taut, with a gap of 5 to 8m between each climber. Many via ferratas are equipped with pigs’ tails pitons, through which the rope should be threaded by the lead climber. If these are not present, use quickdraws placed onto the fixed protection by the lead climber instead. If properly organised, there should always be an anchor point between each member of the party. The last climber should unthread the rope from the pigs’ tails (or collect the quickdraws). Additional security on strenuous sections can be given by the use of a belay plate. If you wish to secure your party with a rope but are not confident of your ability to use this equipment correctly, consider hiring a guide.

A roped-up party crossing the Pont du Calvaire (Route 10, Stage A)

Further advice

 Try to avoid the two strands of your via ferrata lanyard becoming excessively twisted or tangled. If this happens, stop, unclip one strand at a time and untwist it.

 Put your weight on your legs in preference to your arms. On strenuous sections, keep your arms straight, as bent arms will tire more quickly. If your arms or legs are feeling strained, try to change posture regularly.

 You may find some sections of via ferratas more challenging, depending on your height. Put simply, the shorter you are, the more difficulty you will have with sections of vertical climbing; the taller you are, the more difficulty you will have with traversing. Bear this in mind when choosing routes.

 Rock-holds are not always immediately obvious, especially on harder routes, and occasionally you may have to search for them.

 On a few of the hardest routes you may occasionally have to ‘smear’ your boots on the rock. To smear is to use the friction of the sole of your footwear against a vertical (or near vertical) surface, in the absence of rungs or horizontal footholds. Shorter climbers are more likely to have to use this technique.

 Always try to maintain three points of contact on the rock, fixed protection or the cable.

 There is no such thing as poor via ferrata style. Climb using the rock, the cable and fixed protection in whatever manner feels safest and most enjoyable.

 Some bridges can be quite wobbly but all are well secured and protected. Some, particularly the two-wire and three-wire variants, can feel extremely exposed.

 Try to avoid having more than one climber clipped onto any single section of cable at the same time. Normally you should leave enough room between climbers so that, should the higher climber fall, there is no risk that they will hit the lower one.

 The majority of routes have an indicated direction of travel (sens de l’itinéraire). Do not go against the flow.

 It is not uncommon to see people passing each other in relatively precarious positions. If a faster party wishes to pass you, you should assent to this only if you are entirely comfortable with the proposition. Should you find your progress blocked by a slower party, wait patiently until you consider that it will be possible to pass them safely. In such circumstances, a polite request to pass is rarely refused.

 Many approach and return paths pass over steep and slippery ground and require care. Despite this, they are not normally protected by cable except where exposure is also a factor.

Crossing the suspension bridge on Parcours le P’tchi, with Chambéry and the Chartreuse Massif in the background (Route 16, Stage A)

Tyrolean traverses

Only two of the via ferratas in this book contain a Tyrolean traverse, both of which are optional. These are not traditional rock-climbing Tyrolean traverses, which require a belayer, but single cables that are traversed by force of gravity. Of all the different elements found on via ferratas, Tyrolean traverses present the greatest potential risk of accident if misused. Many supervised Tyrolean traverses exist, including a few that are adjacent to routes in this book. The uninitiated should consider trying one of these before using a traverse incorporated into a via ferrata.

To use a Tyrolean traverse, place a climbing sling onto the belay loop of your harness by a lark’s foot knot. Attach the other end of the sling to a screwgate karabiner. Place your pulley onto the Tyrolean traverse cable and attach it to the karabiner (with the screw tightened). Your rest lanyard (see Equipment) may be suitable for this purpose, but your via ferrata self-belaying lanyard is not. This latter item should remain attached to the via ferrata cable until ready to start on the Tyrolean, and then be clipped onto the gear loop of your harness.

Ensure that your arms are at a comfortable distance from the cable, so that you can reach it, at a point behind the pulley, with both hands. Tie up long hair, to avoid the possibility of it snagging in the pulley. The speed at which you travel will depend upon the force with which you start, the angle of the traverse, your weight, the type of pulley used and wind resistance. You can reduce the possibility of your body spinning around by placing both (gloved) hands on top of the pulley. If you stop short of the end of the traverse, you will need to pull yourself along; be very careful not to snag fingers or gloves in the pulley.

Only one person at a time should use a Tyrolean traverse and any specific instructions at the start of the traverse should be followed.

Climbing with children

French via ferratas are an ideal way to introduce children to the pleasure and satisfaction that can be gained from outdoor activities. Although many relatively difficult via ferratas are climbed by appropriately supervised children, the lower grade routes are typically more suitable. Ideally, in addition to standard via ferrata equipment, children should wear a full-body harness and be attached to an adult by rope (see Roped progression). In the event of a fall, small children may be too light to benefit from a shock-absorbing lanyard and it is therefore essential that they be secured by rope. The following routes, which are easy and have closely spaced fixed protection, are designed specifically with children in mind. They are also well suited for adult beginners.

A family party crossing the Passerelle de l’Ou Izès (Route 6)

4 VF du Rocher de la Chaux, Stage A Mini Via Ferrata

15 VF École de Rossane

17 VF la Grotte du Maquis

21 VF du Lac de la Rosiere

24 VF du Plan du Bouc, Stage B Parcours en Falaise

25 VF de Pralognan, Stage B Parcours Ouistiti

27 VF Roc de Tovière, Stage A 1ère Partie

29 VF d’Andagne, Stage A Itinéraire Pierre Blanc

32 VF du Diable, Stage A Les Angelots

33 VF de L’École Buissonnière

35 VF de Poingt Ravier

38 VF de St-Colomban-des-Villards, Stage A VF École du Rocher de Capaillan

43 VF de l’Alpe du Grand Serre, Stage A VF de la Cascade

52 VF du Rocher du Bez

55 VF de la Schappe

57 VF de l’Horloge

60 VF du Torrent de la Combe

61 VF Gorges d’Ailefroide, Stage A Via Facile

Dangers

Weather

In common with all mountain ranges, the French Alps are subject to rapid and unpredictable changes in the weather. Prior to setting out on a via ferrata, you should obtain an up-to-date weather forecast. Meteo France, the French state weather service, is the best source of information, with forecasts tailored specifically to the Alps. This can be obtained from www.meteofrance.com, or via television and radio broadcasts. Tourist offices will normally post a recent forecast, which is sometimes available in English. Otherwise, the staff should be able to translate the French-language forecast for you.

Light rainfall should not normally prevent the use of a via ferrata, although it may reduce the grip offered by rock-holds. Routes should be avoided altogether during or after periods of snowfall or when icy. At higher altitude, routes may ice over at any time of year during cold snaps. After snowfall, or during spring or early summer on higher-altitude routes, avalanche may be a risk. Routes should also be avoided when storms are forecast, due to the risk of lightning strike.

The Belledonne Massif from the Col de la Croix de Fer (near Route 37)

Should you find yourself caught out on a via ferrata by bad weather then, if possible, leave by the nearest escape path. If unable to do so, take shelter until the worst has passed. If lightning is present try to isolate yourself from the surrounding rock. If your pack is large enough, sit on it and distance yourself from any metal items, such as walking poles or ice axes. The via ferrata cable and other metallic elements conduct electricity, so if it is possible to move away from them without compromising safety, do it. Avoid high points such as summits or ridges. Stay in the open and avoid sheltering in caves and other shallow indentations in the rock or under boulders and trees. If these features are struck by lightning, the electricity will take the most economical route to ground, which may be via you. Open depressions in the ground can be a relatively safe place to take shelter.

Hypothermia is also a risk during sudden storms, when the temperature may drop considerably. Put on any spare clothing and try to keep dry. Conversely, during hot periods, you should be aware of the risk of sunburn and heat exhaustion. Carry sunscreen and plenty of water.

Loose rock and fixed protection failure

The fixed equipment used to protect French via ferratas, as well as the rock surrounding the route, is normally checked regularly. However, you should exercise common sense and, if in any doubt about the quality of a hold, give it a solid whack with your boot or fist. It it moves or sounds hollow, do not rely on it to take your weight. Report any equipment in a dangerous state, or conspicuously loose rock, to the local tourist office.

If there are climbers above you, be aware of the possibility that they may dislodge stones as they progress. Be similarly wary of knocking stones onto anyone below. If you do so, warn them of the risk (see Appendix C).

Dogs

In recent years a number of wolves were reintroduced to the French Alps, having been eradicated from the area in the 1930s. As a result of their increasing predation of sheep, shepherds have been encouraged to guard their flocks with Pyrenean mountain dogs, known locally as pastous. These live with the sheep while on high pastures. Although it is exceptionally unlikely that you will see wolves, you may well meet a pastou. Although they look like a large pale golden retriever, they share none of that breed’s placidity and by instinct will act aggressively to anyone they perceive to be a danger to their flock. To avoid the possibility of attack, try to give any flock of sheep or goats encountered on the hill as wide a berth as possible. However, it is often not easy to differentiate the dog from its flock until it has started to approach. Should you encounter one or more pastous, they will most likely check you out, perhaps with a show of aggression, and then dismiss you as a threat. Do nothing to dissuade them of this opinion, and maintain a calm demeanour while attempting to move away from the flock. Keep any poles or cameras, which they may find threatening, discreetly stored.

Accidents and mountain rescue

Every year many thousands of people use via ferratas without suffering any sort of problem. Nevertheless, accidents, some of them fatal, do occur on these routes. There is no authoritative source of information on the causes of accidents, but it is highly probable that the majority result from the incorrect use of personal self-belaying equipment or failing to clip onto the cable.

If you have an accident and require rescue, you must raise the alarm (see Mountain safety for information). French mountain rescue teams are trained in via ferrata rescue techniques, but their service is not free of charge. Therefore, it is essential that you are appropriately insured.

A mountain rescue team practising on the Parcours Grotte à Carret (Route 16, Stage B)

Insurance

In addition to the standard terms of travel insurance, you should ensure that your policy covers the use of via ferratas. This activity should be named specifically within the policy document. You should also check that the routes you intend to visit are not higher than the maximum altitude permitted by the policy. The British Mountaineering Council and Austrian Alpine Club both offer cover that is well adapted to mountaineering activity.

Additionally, European Union citizens should obtain a current European Health Insurance Card (previously know as an E111 form) prior to travelling. This entitles you to a discount on emergency healthcare (search ‘EHIC’ at www.nhs.co.uk), but should not be thought of as an alternative to travel insurance.

Mont Blanc seen from the highest point on Via Ferrata Le Roc du Vent (Route 12)

Using this guide

The routes are divided into six chapters, each representing a distinct geographic area. However, this division is highly arbitrary and you should combine routes from different areas based on whatever criteria suits you best. A close inspection of the route descriptions and accompanying sketch maps and topo diagrams will reveal that a fair number of routes contain stages of different grades, and it is worth taking time to find the option that best suits your requirements. If uncertain of your abilities, do not start with a high-grade via ferrata but pick one of the easiest routes; if comfortable with it, consider trying something harder. Note that any references to the true left or true right of a river or stream should be taken to mean your left or right when facing the direction in which the water flows. Also note that all distances for sections of via ferrata mentioned within route descriptions are approximate.

The sketch map at the top of each route is highly schematic and not to scale. These maps are designed to assist with navigation to the routes by car and then to the start of the route on foot. The large majority of approach and return paths are well marked with signs, waymarks and cairns, so navigation is rarely complicated. For most routes, an annotated photo is also provided. This shows the line taken by the via ferrata together with other details. Readers should use these illustrations, in conjunction with the route description, to assess whether the via ferrata is suitable for them and, in some cases, for navigational advice once on the route.

Lac de Roselend seen from the top of the Roc du Vent (Route 12)

Route descriptions

The following information is given at the start of each route or stage description.

Location

The nearest village, town or resort to the route and the administrative area (Département) in which it is situated, as well as its GPS coordinates.

Length

Unless otherwise noted, this is the estimated length of the via ferrata only and does not include the approach and return paths.

Ascent/Descent

The total height gain and loss that the route or stage involves, taking into account both the via ferrata and its approach and return paths. The figure is not exact and minor undulations have not been accounted for. For some multi-stage routes, the ascent/descent figure stated in the route overview box is not the sum of the figures given in the individual stage overviews (Route 14, for example). This is due to differing approach and return paths.

Route grading

The technical grade, exposure and seriousness of the route or stage.

Total time

An approximate indication of the time needed to complete the route or stage, including a breakdown of the times required for the approach path and return path as well as for the via ferrata itself. Stated times assume that the reader has a reasonable level of fitness and do not allow for anything other than short breaks. Congestion can have a major effect on times, as ‘overtaking’ can be impractical. Should you find your progress blocked by a slow party, the time required to complete the route may be considerably increased. For some multi-stage routes, the total time given in the route overview differs from the combined times of the stage overviews, due to differing approach and return paths (Route 13, for example).

Highest altitude

The maximum altitude gained while on the route.

Map

The relevant map number from the IGN TOP25 series.

Technical notes

Direction: the main direction faced by the route or stage, which will have a bearing on the effects of the weather. For example, on sunny days south-facing routes may be uncomfortably hot, while on cold mornings north-facing routes may be unpleasantly damp.

Escape points: many routes feature one or more places where it is possible to escape from the via ferrata onto easier ground. For routes that are split into multiple stages, the number given in the route overview box is the total number of escape points for the whole route. The number given in each individual stage overview box is the number of escape points within that stage only. As some escape points are located between the end of one stage and beginning of another, the total number of escape points listed in route overviews is not necessarily always the sum of those listed in stage overviews. In addition, as well as escape points leading off via ferratas and onto easier ground, some multi-stage routes feature escapes that lead from a more difficult stage onto an easier stage (Route 4, for example).

When to visit

An approximate indication of the typical season during which a route is open. In practice, this will vary depending on the prevailing weather. Some routes may be closed by the local commune over the winter. If visiting in late autumn or early spring check with the local tourist office as to whether or not the route is open.

Useful websites

In most instances these are for the local tourist office. As well as detailing what the local area has to offer, these are potential sources of up-to-date information on routes regarding alterations or closures and may list places to hire gear or guides. Note that a number of these websites are for ski resorts, which typically have separate front pages for winter (hiver) and summer (été), with information relevant to the via ferrata listed on the summer page.

KEY POINTS TO REMEMBER

 Knowledge of basic French will be useful but is not essential.

 Before deciding to climb a route, read the entire route description.

 If unsure of your abilities, start with an easy route and progress from there (see Appendix A).

 Make sure that you understand how to set up and use your personal safety equipment correctly.

 Always check the state of your safety equipment before each use, particularly if you have hired your gear.

 Do not hesitate to hire a guide if you require extra assurance.

 Do ensure that you are adequately insured.

 It is a good idea to check in advance with the local tourist office whether a route is open.

 Have a back-up plan in the event of a sudden change in the weather.