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ROUTE 6

Via Ferrata du Mont

Location	Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, Haute-Savoie (GPS: Lat. 46º 3’ 21.48” N Long. 6º 45’ 28.39" E)
Length	800m
Ascent/Descent	240m
Route grading	technical grade: 3; exposure: 3; seriousness: A
Total time	2hrs 45mins (approach: 25mins; route: 2hrs; return: 20mins)
Highest altitude	1010m
Map	3530ET
Technical notes	direction: S; escape points: 3
When to visit	March to November
Useful website	www.sixtferacheval.com

This well-designed and scenic via ferrata is extremely popular, and can often be quite crowded. Don’t let that put you off as it has plenty to offer, being a good mid-grade route with several escape points and the unusual option of a long descending traverse. The immediate area is well worth further exploration, especially the nearby Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, a vast natural amphitheatre. Situated at a comparatively low altitude and south facing, the route can be a reasonable option when poor weather prevents access to some of the more elevated routes in the area.

Access

From Cluses, follow the D902 to Taninges and, from there, the D907 through Samoëns towards Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. Some 5km beyond Samoëns, at the Gorges des Tines, park on the right of the road, next to the Snack des Tines café.

Approach

Cross the road to a signpost and take the indicated path, which winds steeply uphill through dense tree cover. Turn left at the first junction encountered, and follow more signs and red triangles to the start of the route.

Looking down at the Gorges des Tines from the Passerelle de l’Ou Izès

Route

Initially the route is very easy, involving a long cabled walk up a broad ledge, the Vire à l’Ours, which is briefly interrupted by a short climb. At the end of the ledge, the cable climbs up to a shallow cave, the Barme aux Corbés, and the route becomes a little more serious. Move out onto the rockface and climb up the Dalle des Paresseux for 40m. The ascent is well protected and not particularly arduous but feels reasonably airy.

Above the climb, go left to take the first escape point (Sortie directe) or right to continue with a short airy traverse. This leads to a vegetated area, which is a good place to take a break before passing around a corner (La Becque) and crossing a 13m-long plank bridge (Passerelle de l’Ou Izès). On the other side of the bridge, which is not very stable and quite exposed, a traverse of 20m length leads to a short ladder. The first 10m of the traverse is a little overhanging and reasonably strenuous.

A small traffic jam near the first escape point

Above the ladder a further airy traverse leads to a second escape point. Descend a little from here to the Traversée de l’Ally and follow a long, generally rising, traverse on a mixture of narrow ledges and steep slabs, passing another escape point along the way. The slabs contain a few slightly strenuous moves but are well protected with plenty of rungs. A short climb then passes through a small overhang to reach the top of the bluffs. Descend along the Chemin du Retour until signs indicate a left turn for the Vire du Raffour. Keep right to continue descending by the Chemin du Retour or go left and descend to the top of the Dalle des Paresseux and turn right. The Vire du Raffour utilises a system of gradually descending vegetated ledges. While progress is mostly quite easy, there are several passages of mildly strenuous downclimbing.

Return

Keep your gear on, as the descent path contains one short, easy, cabled section. Having passed this, quickly rejoin the approach path.