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ROUTE 3

Via Ferrata des Saix de Miolène

Location	La Chapelle-d’Abondance, Haute-Savoie (GPS: Lat. 46º 17’ 41.71” N Long. 6º 45’ 52.44" E)
Length	900m
Ascent/Descent	225m
Route grading	technical grade: 2–4; exposure: 2–3; seriousness: A (all stages)
Total time	3hrs 30mins
Highest altitude	1250m
Map	3528ET
Technical notes	direction: SE; total escape points: 3
When to visit	April to October
Useful website	www.abondance.org

The picture-postcard Abondance Valley constitutes the perfect ideal of an alpine setting: small, chalet-filled villages surrounded by pastures and overlooked by high mountains. The Saix de Miolene, a line of high bluffs dominating the north side of the valley above La Chapelle-d’Abondance, is perhaps the best vantage point from which to enjoy this magnificent location. The via ferrata is of good quality throughout and is divided by escape paths into several sections of increasing difficulty. The upper parts of the route should not be underestimated. Although they contain fewer conspicuously strenuous passages than some other routes of similar grade, the full route is quite long and fairly tiring. Due to the presence of nesting peregrine falcons, the route is closed beyond the second escape path from 15 March to 10 July. There is another via ferrata, of approximately the same difficulty, just over the Swiss border at Champéry.

Access

La Chapelle-d’Abondance is on the D22, between Thonon-les-Bains and Monthey (in Switzerland). The car park, which is at the western end of the village beneath an old quarry, is indicated by a sign with a large white outline of a climber.

STAGE A

Tronçon du Cabri

Length	350m
Ascent/Descent	75m
Route grading	technical grade: 2; exposure: 2; seriousness: A
Time	2hrs (approach: 15mins; route: 1hr 15mins; return: 30mins)
Technical notes	escape points (within stage): 0

Approach

A more-or-less level path (Sentier du Menhir) leads through woodland in a westerly direction to the foot of the bluffs on your right.

Route

Initially, the route gains 20m in height as it climbs around the toe of the bluffs. Once the southeast face is reached, continue with a gently rising traverse until an outside corner is reached. Exposure along this section is somewhat mitigated by the treetops just below you. Turn the corner and traverse for a few metres to a short balance beam, the Pont du Goleron, using large pockets in the rock for the hands. This is one of the few places along the entire route to use rock handholds, with most progress being aided by abundant stemples.

Beyond the beam, a mildly strenuous climb of a couple of metres, followed by more traversing, leads to a shallow bay where a rest can be taken. The climbing traverse continues more steeply with a few brief and mildly strenuous moves to reach a second shallow bay. From here, cross a 10m-wide blank wall on stemples with plenty of exposure and some effort required. After a little more traversing, Stage A ends at a third shallow bay. There is an escape path on the left.

Crossing the Pont du Goleron

STAGE B

Tronçon du Chamois/Tronçon du Bouquetin

Length	550m
Ascent/Descent	150m (225m, if combined with Stage A)
Route grading	technical grade: 4; exposure: 3; seriousness A
Time	3hrs 15mins (approach: 15mins; route: 2hrs 25mins (both stages combined); return: 35mins)
Technical notes	escape points (within stage): 2

Route

To continue, edge out onto an exposed position on a blank wall. This is similar in nature to the one crossed near the end of the first stage. More blank walls follow, interspersed with short sections of easier traversing. A broad bay is reached, with a second escape path climbing to the left. Cross the bay on an easy path, and arrive at the Traverse de Coucou. This crosses an impressively smooth rockface for 25m utilising a small horizontal weakness in the rock. Some of the foot placements are hidden and fairly small, and the traverse is likely to leave you with aching arms.

The strenuous Traverse de Coucou

Climb up around a narrow buttress to reach a ledge, which is followed without any difficulties until arriving at a large tree. This spot (Le Jardin de Miolene) is one of the few places on the route with shade. From here, the route gains 65 vertical metres up a series of steep climbs and traverses (La Para Nera). This ascent is tiring but contains no noticeably strenuous moves. At the top a narrow ledge passes an escape path on the left and leads to the Traversée des Poupées. This takes a gradually rising line across a series of vegetated ledges and bare slabs until arriving at a steep climb of 15m. The final 5m of the climb ascend an open corner and are fairly tough.

Above this, another narrow ledge, where a rest can be had, leads to the Mur du Saix Rouge. This is climbed for 70 vertical metres and contains a few small passages that are slightly overhanging. Depending on your height, some moves may be fairly awkward due to the placement of the rungs and you may need to make use of a number of small hand and rock foot placements. At the top of the climb, the cable continues along much easier ground for a further few minutes before terminating.

Return

Descend carefully until the start of the route is reached and return along the approach path.

DENT D’OCHE OPTION

Although it cannot really be considered to be a via ferrata, the path traversing the nearby Dent d’Oche (2221m) is well worth an ascent for anyone in the area. The route contains several exposed sections of scrambling, which are protected by cable. It is situated a little to the north of the Abondance Valley and is best accessed from the small village of Bernex, which can be reached from Évian-les-Bains. There is a staffed refuge on the summit of the peak, from which there are exceptional views, taking in the entire sweep of Lake Geneva. The ascent climbs for 1010m from Parking La Fétiuère (above Bernex); allow 5–7hrs for the round-trip.