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ROUTE 4

Via Ferrata du Rocher de la Chaux

Location	St-Jean-d’Aulps, Haute-Savoie (GPS: Lat. 46º 14’ 36.65” N Long. 6º 38’ 51.63" E)
Length	700m
Ascent/Descent	795m
Route grading	technical grade: 3–5; exposure: 5; seriousness: A (all stages)
Total time	5hrs 25mins (if all stages climbed consecutively)
Highest altitude	1173m
Map	3528ET
Technical notes	total escape points: 0
When to visit	May to October
Useful website	www.valleedaulps.com

This new route, opened in the summer of 2011, scales a feature known locally as the Tete de l’Éléphant. Driving north from Morzine, the reason for the name soon becomes apparent, as an approximation of an elephant’s head can clearly be seen on the Rocher de la Chaux, to the northwest of St-Jean-d’Aulps.

There are two routes on the rock, with the easier one ascending the ‘trunk’ of the elephant and the harder route its ‘face’, as well as an easier third option nearby. Both routes are athletic, sustained and exceptionally airy, with the exposure being particularly ‘immediate’ for most of their length. There are few good places to take a break on either route, so a rest lanyard is essential. The second route is considerably more arduous and sustained than the first, although the most difficult passages are fairly well spaced apart. As such, the route would be a good option to try before tackling one of the most difficult via ferratas in the book, such as the Grotte à Carret (Route 16, Stage B) or Grand Dièdre (Route 40, Stage B). An easier third option, the Mini Via Ferrata, could be completed as a warm-up for the other routes, or by children and beginners who want to dip their toes in the water. The routes on the Rocher de la Chaux are closed each year from 15 April to 15 May to protect the kidding of chamois.

Access

Driving south on the D902 from Thonon-les-Bains, turn left onto the D293 just before St-Jean-d’Aulps. Follow this for 200m and park next to a cemetery and information panel for the via ferrata.

STAGE A

La Tête de l’Éléphant

Length	300m
Ascent/Descent	375m
Route grading	technical grade: 3; exposure: 5; seriousness A
Time	2hrs 30mins (approach: 25mins; route: 1hr 30mins; return: 35mins)
Technical notes	direction SE; escape points (within stage): 0

Approach

Briefly walk uphill to a minor road and turn left. Immediately beyond the first intact building on your right a small sign indicates the point where you leave the road. Take a path, with orange waymarks, that climbs steeply uphill through forested slopes.

Route

A straightforward climbing traverse leads to the Pilier de Chantemerle, a vertical climb of 50m. This is quite steep, but initially not too strenuous. In common with the rest of the route, as well as the adjacent route, progress is almost exclusively on stemples, with only very occasional contact made with the rock. Towards the top of this first climb, several mildly demanding moves lead to a short, vertiginous traverse around a corner, beyond which is a balance beam. The 4m-long beam (Le Pont de Saint Guérin) feels extremely airy and is equipped with a cable only just tight enough to avoid having to rely on balance alone.

Pass the escape path from the harder route and continue with a climb of 30m. This involves a few slightly strenuous moves and leads to a steep traverse up to the second escape path from the harder route. Continue to traverse steeply, with a gradual decline in the angle of ascent leading to the junction with the other route. From here, walk easily up the grassy hillside to the end of the cable. The platform above the end of the route affords fine views of Mont Blanc (4810m), in the distance, as well as of St-Jean-d’Aulps, now far below you.

The reward for your efforts: a view of Mont Blanc

Return

Keep your gear on as the return path involves some easy cabled sections. Follow a path up the ridgeline, and then descend forested slopes to meet your approach path.

STAGE B

L’Oeil de l’Éléphant

Length	300m
Ascent/Descent	375m (750m, if combined with Stage A)
Route grading	technical grade: 5; exposure: 5; seriousness: A
Time	2hrs 30mins (approach: 25mins; route: 1hr 30mins; return: 35mins)
Technical notes	direction: SE; escape points (to Stage A): 2

Route

Start as for Stage A: within 10m diverge from the easier route and climb straight up the face for 35m and cross the Traversée du Doute. This steeply rising traverse of 15m constitutes the first real challenge, being both noticeably strenuous and the first point at which the exposed nature of the route can be properly appreciated. Arrive at the Mur des Lamentations, a vertical climb of 20m with some reasonable overhangs on it. A little more steep traversing brings you to the first escape point.

If you really struggled with the first section, consider taking the easier route as the next part is just as arduous but even more exposed. This consists of a long rising traverse, occasionally interrupted by some overhangs. The largest of these, near the top of the section, is the eponymous Oeil de l’Éléphant (crux). This involves a highly muscular and airy move part-way along a generally strenuous passage of 15m. The second escape point is found a little way above this.

Between the first and second escape points on l’Oeil de l’Éléphant, with 100m of exposure underfoot

The third and final section may come as a disappointment or a relief depending on how you have found the route so far. Begin with a climb followed by a traverse, both of a few metres each and all somewhat overhanging. Difficulty then reduces significantly along with a marginal drop in exposure as a long rising traverse is followed. The cable tops out onto a grassy hillside before rejoining the easier route.

STAGE C

Mini Via Ferrata

Length	100m
Ascent/Descent	45m (795m, if combined with preceding stages)
Route grading	technical grade: 1 (variant: 3); exposure: 2; seriousness: A
Time	45mins (approach: 10mins; route: 25mins; return: 10mins)
Technical notes	direction: W; escape points (within stage): 0

Approach

From the parking place briefly walk uphill to a minor road and turn left. Follow the road, passing the junction with the path for the other stages, and continue to a rock-climbing area above the hamlet of Bas Thex. A little way beyond an information panel, take the first path to the right and immediately you will see two via ferrata lines alongside many bolted sports climbing routes.

Route

Ascend the left-hand cable. Scale a just off-vertical slab for 25m to a narrow ledge. Either continue climbing for 10m or walk along the ledge to the right to take a harder variant. This harder option begins by ascending through a moderate overhang for a few metres before continuing up to join the other route. Another alternative is to continue along the ledge to the right to join the descent route. From the top of the climb, the cable heads right and descends broken ground without particular difficulty.