Читать книгу History, Gazetteer, and Directory of Shropshire [1851] - Samuel Bagshaw - Страница 18
ОглавлениеThe ground floor is appropriated to booking offices, waiting rooms, and a large refreshment room; above are the offices for the clerks, and other offices. The platforms respectively measure 600 feet, and 450 in length, and 16 feet wide. A wrought iron roof, beautifully designed, of 70 feet span, covers the platforms and lines of rails for a space of 450 feet. The goods and coal depots are situated between the station and Coton-hill, with convenient access from Castle Foregate-street: here an abundance of coal, lime, and slates is always on hand. Near the station is the Viaduct over the Severn, consisting of seven elliptical arches, 45 feet span. The rails are 36 feet above the ordinary level of the river. A cast iron bridge of sixty-four feet span, from the Brymbo iron works, carries the Shrewsbury and Chester railway over the Castle Foregate. The whole of the works were executed by Mr. Brassey, the contractor, under the direction of Mr. James Baylis, the resident engineer, at the joint expense of the several companies whose lines unite in Shrewsbury.
Lord Hill’s Column, erected to commemorate the brilliant victories and achievements of that distinguished warrior, stands on rising ground near the entrance of Abbey Foregate, from the London road, and forms a conspicuous and interesting object to the surrounding country. This fine Doric pillar, considered to be the largest in the world, was completed on the 18th of June, 1816, at a cost of £5,973. 13s. 2d. The pedestal, which is square, has a buttress at each angle, on which is a lion couchant, worked out of Grinshill free stone, of which material is the column. The chastely fluted shaft is surmounted by a cylindrical pedestal, supporting a statue of his lordship, of colossal proportions, executed in artificial stone, by Messrs. Coade and Sealey, London. The statue is 17 feet high, and the height of the pillar 116 feet, making a total height of 133 feet from the ground to the top of the statue. A beautiful spiral staircase, the munificent donation of the builder, Mr. Straphen, winds round the interior of the shaft, and opens on the summit, at the base of the pedestal of the statue, whence the visitor will enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of Shrewsbury and the fertile plains of Shropshire, unrivalled in extent and splendour. On the sides of the pedestal are inscriptions, recording the victories of the gallant general, to whose honour this voluntary tribute of Salopian esteem was erected.
The Armoury, situated near to St. Giles’ church, is a spacious brick edifice, built by government in 1806, at an expense of £10,000, and intended as a depôt for containing the arms of the volunteer corps of this and the adjoining counties. The principal building is 135 feet long by 39 feet wide, divided into an upper and lower story, capable of containing 25,000 stand of arms; at each angle is a small residence, and within the enclosure are two magazines for ammunition. The arms having been removed to Chester, the premises have remained unoccupied ever since. The structure now presents a dilapidated appearance; it has become by purchase the property of Lord Berwick.
The County Court Offices for the recovery of debts not exceeding £20 are situate in Wyle Cop. The court contains within its jurisdiction the following parishes and places, viz.:—Acton Burnell, Alberbury, Albrighton, Astley, Atcham, Baschurch, Battlefield, Berrington, Cardington, Cardiston, Church Preen, Church Pulverbatch, Church Stretton, Condover, Cound, Cressage, Easthope, Eaton-under-Haywood, Eaton Constantine, Fitz, Ford, Frodesley, Great Harwood, Great Ness, Habberley, Hadnal, Harley, Haughmond Demesne, Hope Bowdler, Hughley, Kenley, Leebotwood, Leighton, Little Ness, Longnor, Melverley, Meole Brace, Middle, Minsterley, Montford, Petton, Pitchford, Pontesbury, Preston Gubballs, Ruckley and Langley, Rushbury, Shineton, Shipton, Shrawardine, Shrewsbury—viz.: St. Chad, St. Julian, St. Mary except Clive, and Holy Cross and St. Giles, and Smethcott, Stapleton, Sutton, Uffington, Uppington, Upton Magna, Westbury, Withington, Wolstaston, Wollaston and Wroxeter.—Judge: Uvedale Corbett, Esq., Aston Hall.—Clerk: Joshua John Peele, Esq., Murivance.—High Bailiff: Mr. Henry Bloxham, St. Mary’s square.—Bailiffs: Edward Bury and Richard Prinn.
The Cattle Market or New Smithfield, situated near the banks of the Severn, on a plot of land called Raven Meadow, is approached from the lower part of Mardol, and the Castle gates nearly opposite the railway station. This market covers four acres of land, and is not surpassed by any provincial market in England for the conveniences it affords, and its adaptation to the purposes intended. It was opened on November 19th, 1850. The total cost has been £15,000, of which £2500 was expended in raising the ground. A lofty brick wall surrounds the market, which is capable of affording accommodation for 700 horses, 1400 cattle, 5000 sheep, and 1000 pigs, with suitable trial ground for the horses, appropriate pens for the sheep and pigs, and a long range of sheds under the north wall for the cattle. If the tolls are not sufficient to pay the interest of the money borrowed for the formation of the market, the act of parliament authorizes a rate upon the town to meet the deficiency. The market or fair is held every alternate Tuesday, when stock of all kinds is brought in very considerable quantities for sale.
Fairs for cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, and fat stock are held every alternate Tuesday. The following will be the dates for the year 1851, viz.:—January 14, 28; February 11, 25; March 11, 25; April 8, 22; May 6, 20; June 3, 17; July 1, 15, 29; August 12, 26; September 9, 23; October 7, 21; November 4, 18; December 2, 16, 30.
Butter and Cheese Fair is held on the Wednesday following the first fair in each month.
The Wool Fair takes place on July 1 and August 26.
The English Bridge is a substantial and elegant structure, 400 feet in length, and composed of seven arches, crowned by a bold balustrade. It was erected in 1774, at an expense of £15,710, of which £11,494 was raised by voluntary subscriptions. The central arch is sixty feet in width, and forty in height, which is double the height of the end arches, and consequently disagreeably steep; the breadth of the thoroughfare is also inconveniently narrow (only twenty-five feet) for the innumerable carriages and passengers which are continually passing over it. The object in its construction was to contrive as much space as possible for the water during floods. With the exception of this defect, its architectural beauty is surpassed by few bridges in the kingdom; it is highly ornamental to the town, and an equally noble monument of the public spirit of the gentry of the county. The keystone of the central arch is adorned with a fine head of Sabrina, “goddess of the river,” and that on the opposite side with a head of Neptune, the “father of fountains.” The keystones of the other arches are worked into a shell; on the central piers of the arches are finely carved dolphins.
The old English bridge, built probably by the abbots and burgesses conjointly, was taken down on the completion of the present structure. It was constructed on seventeen arches, and extended over the main stream, also an arm of the river now filled up which flowed into the Meole Brook; its length was 864 feet, and the breadth only 12 feet, being greatly encumbered with houses. Near the eastern extremity was a gate and a strong embattled tower, with chamber and portcullis, and beyond a draw-bridge.
The Welsh Bridge, so called on account of the road from Shrewsbury to a considerable part of North Wales lying over it, is situated at the foot of Mardol, and crosses the river into the populous suburb of Frankwell. It is a bold and substantial structure, consisting of five arches, the length being 266 feet and the breadth 30 feet, completed in 1795, at an expense of £8000, raised by subscriptions. The old Welsh bridge taken down on the erection of the above structure, was situated a few yards higher up the stream than the present fabric. It was a most interesting monument of antiquity, and consisted of seven arches, with massive gate towers at each extremity, in the finest style of castellated building. Leland, who visited Shrewsbury in 1539, in describing this bridge says:—“It is the greatest, faynest, and highest upon the stream, having six great arches of stone; it standeth on the west syde of the towne, and hath at the one end of it a great gate to enter by into the towne; and at the other end towardes Wales a mighty stronge towre to prohibit enemies to enter on the bridge.” Above one of the gates stood an armed statue of a knight, which was removed in 1791, and placed in a niche in front of the Market-house. This effigy was an important object of attraction to the Welshmen, from a tradition, that it represented Llewelyn, Prince of Wales. Antiquaries, from its attendant embellishments, state it represented Richard Duke of York. The tolls arising from marketable goods over this bridge were abolished by the payment of £6000 to the corporation, which sum was raised by public subscriptions.
The Railway Viaduct over the Severn, situated a little east from the station, consists of seven elliptical arches, forty-five span, and thirty-six feet above the ordinary level of the river. The whole has a bold, massive, and elegant appearance.—A BRIDGE of cast iron of sixty-four feet span, crosses the Castle Foregate, and carries the four lines of rails of the Chester and Shrewsbury railway.—A WOODEN BRIDGE, consisting of two timber arches, eighty-five feet span each, on the bow and spring principle, leads from the public walk called the Dana, over the railway station, to the front of the county gaol.
Trade and Manufactures.—The trade of this town was once esteemed of great importance to the kingdom, and though its consequence has been eclipsed by the subsequent increase of other places, yet it has never been destitute of a considerable share of internal commerce. In early times it was distinguished for its glove cloth, and shoe manufactories, but its ancient traffic in Welsh woollens was in a great measure the cause of the former opulence of Shrewsbury. Camden, in his account of the town in 1586, observes:—“It is a fine city, and of good commerce; and by the industry of the citizens and their cloth manufacture, and their trade with the Welsh, is very rich, for hither the Welsh commodities are brought as to the common mart.” Pennant, who wrote more than half a century ago, says:—“From very early days this place possessed almost exclusively the trade with Wales, in a coarse kind of woollen cloth called Welsh webs, which were brought from Merinoth and Montgomeryshire to a market held here weekly on Thursday. They were afterwards dressed, that is, the wool raised on one side, by a set of people called shearmen. At the time of Queen Elizabeth the trade was so great, that not fewer than 600 persons maintained themselves by this occupation. The cloth was sent chiefly to America to clothe the negroes, or to Flanders, where it is used by the peasants. At present the greatest part of this traffic is diverted into other channels, and not more than four or five hundred thousand yards are brought to the ancient mart.” The stout Welshmen were accustomed to come to the market, with troops of hardy ponies, each with a halter of twisted straw, and laden with bales of cloth.
It was a practice of the drapers and shearmen to assemble at the Market-house at two o’clock, and according to ancient usage proceed up stairs in seniority. The traffic was a ready money business, and as the Welshmen left much of their cash behind them, in exchange for groceries, malt, and other commodities, the loss of such a trade may easily be conceived, when it is said that more than six hundred pieces of web have been sold in one day. The Welsh flannels were formerly made by the rural population, and the small farmers employed their female domestics at leisure hours in this business. These seldom made more than four or five pieces during the year, and those from the wool of their own flocks. The principal manufacturers were farmers, who maintained servants solely for that purpose, and hired weavers by the year. They produced forty or fifty pieces annually at market, each measuring from 100 to 150 yards; and, as it was a ready money trade, many of them made considerable sums. At present, chiefly from the introduction of spinning mills and the power loom, this ancient domestic manufacture is almost swept away. The market, formerly held here every Thursday, is now removed to Welshpool, Newton, and Llanidloes, which has nearly caused the total extinction of this branch of local commerce. There are now only two flannel merchants in the town, and they visit the different localities in which the flannels are manufactured to purchase their goods.
The general trade and prosperity of Shrewsbury are said to have been very much injured by the exactions of its guilds or incorporated companies, the most considerable of which are the drapers and the mercers. The former were incorporated by Edward IV., and united with an ancient guild or fraternity of the Holy Trinity, founded in the church of St. Mary. Their company is recognised by several subsequent acts of parliament. They have now a considerable estate, originally purchased by the voluntary contributions of the members, which is expended in the support of the inmates of St. Mary’s almshouses, in liberal subscriptions to the charitable institutions of the town, and in relief to widows and families of deceased members. On the south-west side of St. Mary’s church is the Drapers’ Hall, a curious half-timbered building, erected, probably, about the time of Elizabeth. The large room, finely wainscotted with old oak, contains two massive oak tables, and a fine old chest, with richly carved ornaments. Portraits of the royal founder of the company, and of Degory Watur and his spouse, decorate the wainscot. Among the records of the Drapers’ Company are the following:—“25 Elizabeth, 1583, ordered that no draper set out for Oswestry on Monday before six o’clock, on forfeiture of 6s. 8d., and that they should wear their weapons all the way, and go in company. Not to go over the Welsh Bridge before the bell tolls six.”—“27 of Elizabeth, 1585, a market was held at Knocking, and a halfpenny paid by the drapers for every piece of cloth bought.”—“1621, agreed to buy no more cloth in Oswestry.”
The Mercers were incorporated by Edward IV., on condition that they should maintain a priest to sing at the altar of St. Michael in the collegiate church of St. Chad; that they should give a penny a week to thirteen poor men, to pray for the good estate of the king, his family, and themselves; and also find a wax taper to be carried before the holy sacrament on the procession of Corpus Christi, on the celebration of which day it was customary for all the companies to unite as their grand anniversary, and preceded by their masters and wardens, ornamented with colours and curious devices they attended the bailiffs and members of the corporation, who, with the friars of the convents and the parochial clergy, followed the holy sacrament, which was borne by priests under a rich canopy of velvet, to a stone cross without the town (probably that now called the Weeping Cross). Here all joined in bewailing their sins, and in chanting forth petitions for a plentiful harvest; they then returned in the same order to the church of St. Chad, when a grand mass was celebrated. Three days of unbounded jollity and recreation followed this magnificent festival. These were held on a piece of ground called “Kingsland,” where each company had its “arbour,” and the several incorporated communities, accompanied by bands of music, flags, and devices emblematical of their craft, preceded by a “King” or some other principal personage, assembled at their respective arbours and spent the time with much festivity. After the reformation the religions ceremony was abolished, but one day of entertainment is still observed under the denomination of the Shrewsbury Show, now held on the second Monday after Trinity Sunday. Each company has still its arbour or pavilion, adorned with the arms of the company, in which refreshments are provided. These are visited by the mayor and corporation, who used formerly to wear their robes of office upon this occasion. The following is an entry from the books kept by the bailiffs, dated 1521:—“Wine to the Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield, president of our lord the king’s council in the marches of Wales at the general procession of Corpus Christi, 3s. 8d.” The show was revived and kept up with much pageantry in 1850. The ancient Tailors’ Hall formerly stood on College Hill; the Weavers’ Hall on Wyle Cop; the Cloth Workers’ Hall in High-street, and the Mercers’ Hall in the King’s Head Shutt. The chief manufactories at the present time in Shrewsbury are the extensive establishment of Messrs. Marshall and Co., for flax spinning and the manufacture of linen thread, where upwards of 800 operatives are employed. The factory is a spacious and lofty building, situated in St. Michael-street; the aggregate amount of steam power employed is equal to 116 horses. Linen was formerly extensively manufactured here; a linen and flax mill was taken down about fifteen years ago; there are now only about half a dozen hands employed in weaving linen. The cotton manufacture was introduced into Shrewsbury in 1790, when several factories were built at Coleham, and the trade was carried on in a spirited manner. In 1817 the proprietor, in consequence of a great depression in trade, declined business, since which the mills have been closed, and some portion of them converted into cottage tenements. Malting is very extensively carried on, as will be seen in reference to the trades’ list, which will show thirty different firms. Glass Staining has been brought to the highest state of perfection by Mr. David Evans, whose ingenious talents and consummate skill have raised the art to a degree of perfection unequalled in modern times. The beautiful specimens visible in the restorations of Winchester and Lichfield cathedrals, in most of the churches of Shrewsbury, and in churches almost in all parts of the kingdom, will compare with some of the finest works of the ancient masters, and speak his merits more forcibly to the refined taste than whole volumes of feeble encomiums. There are several Iron-founderies, and the manufacture of Agricultural Implements is carried onto a considerable extent, with Tanning and other branches of trade as will be seen on reference to the trades’ directory. Among the delicacies for which the town is noted is the Shrewsbury Cake, a delicious sweet cake, which the poet Shenstone speaks of as “Rend’ring through Britain’s isle Salopian’s praises known.” The Simnel Cake is also much admired, and great quantities are made about the season of Christmas. It consists of an exterior crust or shell deeply tinged with saffron, enclosing a compound of rich fruit. The Shrewsbury Brawn is highly celebrated among the connoisseurs of this ancient Christmas dish.
The Quarry.—This fine public promenade occupies a rich sloping meadow of about twenty acres, on the west side of the town, and derives its name from a disused stone quarry nearly in the centre, which supplied a considerable part of the red sand stone visible in the older portions of the walls and churches of Shrewsbury. An avenue of lofty lime trees, more than five hundred yards in length, follows the windings of the Severn; to the middle and at each end of which, three other shaded walks lead from various parts of the town. “The still retirement and pleasing gloom of this delightful grove, from which the noise of the busy town, and even a prospect of its buildings, are almost entirely excluded—the refreshing coolness of its shade—the rich verdure which ever clothes its meadow—the fine sweep of its umbrageous arch—and the majestic flow of the river, which here combine to render it the favourite and constant resort of the inhabitants, and a principal attraction to the stranger.” The opposite bank of the Severn rises abruptly, and is crowned with the House of Industry, an extensive and handsome building, and some modern plantations, contribute greatly to embellish the scene, and render it one of the finest public walks in the kingdom. The ground was planted and laid out during the mayoralty of Henry Jenks, Esq., in the year, 1719, previous to which it was a waste plot of land, where the inhabitants were used to indulge in feats of wrestling, tilting and other sports. In a place called the Dingle, planted with a clump of magnificent trees, are the remains of a rude amphitheatre, with ascending seats cut in the bank, where the friars of the adjacent convent entertained the Salopians with those ancient, sacred dramas, called mysteries or Whitsun plays, so famous in the days of our ancestors. Here, also, during the reign of Elizabeth, many plays were exhibited, in which the scholars of the free school sustained the principal characters; among which, in 1565, was a play called Julian the Apostate, and two years afterwards was exhibited the passion of Christ. It is said that the Queen herself intended to have honoured the last with her presence, and had even arrived as far as Coventry on her way, but hearing that it was over she returned to London. The corporation in the year 1569 leased the quarry to three persons for ten years, for the consideration of a red rose yearly, on condition that they should bring the water from Broadwell, near Crow Meole, in leaden pipes as high as it would run into the town of Shrewsbury. By this means the water was first brought into the town; the work was completed in the year 1574, and then the conduits were first opened.
The Horse Races are held annually in the second week in May, and continue for two days; they attract a considerable influx of visitors to the town, but are not so celebrated as they were in former times. The race course is situated a quarter of a mile N.N.E. from the Abbey Church, on the road leading to Monk Moor. It also bears the name of “the soldiers’ piece,” and is pointed out by tradition as the spot on which the unfortunate Charles I., when at Shrewsbury in 1642, drew up his army and addressed the assembled gentry of the county on the subject of his distresses.
The Assembly Room was erected in 1777, at the back of the Lion Hotel; the room is commodious and suitably decorated, and the balls are usually attended by the rank and fashion of the county.
The Billiard Rooms are situated in the Market-square; the third story of the Music Hall has been divided into convenient apartments, which are now occupied as billiard rooms, of which Mr. Edward Vaughan is the proprietor.
Aquatic Excursions.—Much pleasure and healthy exercise is afforded on the Severn during the summer months, and an emulation of skill is frequently excited among the rowers. Boats may be hired at a moderate charge, and pleasure parties frequently take an excursion up the river to the picturesque and shady banks of Berwick and the Isle, or to the rural village of Uffington. The Severn also affords much pleasure to the votaries of the “gentle craft,” the river being celebrated for the excellency of its salmon, besides which trout, pike, grayling, perch, and many other sorts of fish are caught.
Kingsland is a plot of ground covering twenty-seven acres on the south west side of the town, the common property of the burgesses, thirty of whom in rotation receive annually 4s. 6d. from its produce, in lieu for a “turn for their kine.” It is studded with small enclosures and “arbours,” to which the several incorporated trading companies of the town annually resort in procession on the Monday after Trinity Sunday, accompanied by bands of music and devices emblematical of their craft; a more particular account of which has been noticed with the various guilds.
Monastic Foundations.—The Abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, which stood on the eastern banks of the Severn, in the suburb which still bears its name, owes its foundation to Roger de Montgomery, the first Norman Earl of Shrewsbury. In the time of the Saxons it is said a church stood on or near this spot, and a community of monks was in all probability united to it. The Danes, during their ravages in the ninth century, plundered and depopulated monastic institutions, and this it is conjectured fell with the rest. The kingdom becoming more settled under the reign of Edgar, many of the abbey churches which had till then laid desolate were taken possession of by secular priests, who, swerving from the strictness of monastic life, engaged in the active concerns of society. Such, apparently, was the state of the monastery of Shrewsbury at the time of the Norman invasion. The church, then a rude edifice of wood, was governed by Odelirius, a priest, who as archpresbyter, presided over a college of married secular clergy. Its district was called the parish of the city. From the fact that the portion of each prebend, at the death of the incumbent, should revert to the monks of a new abbey, there can be no doubt that at this period it was collegiate. This was the cause of much litigation, it being customary for ecclesiastical livings to descend as by inheritance to the next of blood. These claims were, however, abolished during the reign of Henry I. In the seminary belonging to this ancient church, a priest named Seward is mentioned as an eminent teacher, and to him the historian Ordericus Vitalis owed his education.
When Roger de Montgomery took possession of his territories in Shropshire, he determined to refound the monastery, and to introduce into it the monks of his favourite order, St. Benedict, whom he invited over from a religious house founded on the estates of Mabel, his first Countess, at Sees, in Normandy. He obtained the land on which the monastery of Shrewsbury stood from Siward, a Saxon nobleman, and in 1083 laid the foundation of a magnificent abbey, which, when finished, was re-dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, the patrons of the ancient monastery. With the consent of his Countess, Adelaisa, he retired to the holy solitude of his monastery and received the tonsure and habit of a monk, on which occasion he presented the fraternity with the tunic of Hugh, the sainted abbot of Clugin, in Burgundy, which vestment he occasionally wore, doubtless in anxious hope of its communicating some portion of the sanctity of its former possessor. In the immediate prospect of his dissolution he invested himself with this precious relic, thus exemplifying the pitiable superstition of those who “put on the weeds of Dominic or Franciscan and think to pass disguised.” He was buried in the Lady Chapel, between the two altars.
His second son, Hugh, succeeded to the Earldom of Shrewsbury, soon after which he paid a solemn visit to the abbey, to do homage to the tomb of his father, on which occasion, though of a profligate and cruel character, he added greatly to the endowments of the institution; and, among other things, conferred on the monks the tithe of all the venison of his forests in Shropshire, that of Wenlock excepted. The barons who attended Earl Hugh, imitated his munificence and conferred large estates on the abbey. By these and other acquisitions the revenues of the house were greatly enriched, and the abbot obtained the honour of ranking among those spiritual barons who sat and voted in parliament, had the authority of bishops within their houses, wore the mitre, sandals, and gloves, carried silver crosiers in their hands, gave their episcopal benediction, conferred the lesser orders, and in some instances were exempt from all authority of the diocesan. It is uncertain when these high functions were first exercised, but the abbot of Shrewsbury is mentioned among the spiritual lords who voted in parliament in the 49th of Henry III.
In the days of King Stephen, when the popular passion for relics had attained an unbounded extravagance, the monks of Shrewsbury determined not to be behindhand with their brethren in availing themselves of so fruitful a source of opulence; therefore, during the abbacy of Herbert, the third abbot, they commenced business on their own account. After ransacking the legends of Wales for a subject, they at length had the good fortune to pitch upon one sufficiently absurd for their purpose, in the bones of the martyred Virgin St. Wenefrede, which lay interred in the churchyard at Gwytherin, in Denbighshire. After much fruitless negotiation with the priest and the people of Gwytherin, the abbot of Shrewsbury procured an order from Henry I. for the translation of the sacred dust to his monastery. The Welshmen honoured their saint more than their king, and turned a deaf ear alike to entreaties and menace. The Salopian monks persevering in their purpose, held a chapter, in which Robert Pennant, their prior, a Denbighshire man, who is supposed to have fabricated the legend, was commissioned to make a pilgrimage to Gwytherin, and to leave no expedients untried for obtaining possession of the relics. Assisted by a priest in Wales, two clever monks of his abbey, and the prior of Chester, he practised on the credulity of the Welsh by pretended visions and divine warnings. The prize was given up, and the delegates returned with it in triumph to Shrewsbury, where it was enshrined with great pomp and solemnity, near the high altar of St. Peter and St. Paul. The speculation of the monks was completely successful; multitudes of pilgrims flocked with gifts to the shrine, and even nobles contended who should offer the richest donations. In addition to these treasured bones the monks in after times appear to have possessed a most extensive and varied assortment of other relics, doubtless of equal value and efficacy. In 1486 the abbot Thomas Mynde incorporated the devotees of St. Wenefrede into a religions guild or fraternity, founded by him in her honour. A great bell was also dedicated to her memory. One of the most remarkable persons this house produced was Robert of Shrewsbury, a monk, who was promoted to the see of Bangor, in the reign of Henry II. His influence in Wales excited the jealously of King John, who imprisoned him in his own cathedral, and for his ransom obliged him to pay three hundred hawks. This eminent prelate, it is said by his will, ordered his body to be buried, not in his cathedral church, but in the middle of the market place of Shrewsbury. At the various visits with which the English sovereigns honoured Shrewsbury, it is highly probable that they took up their residence in the abbey, and there can be little doubt that the parliament of Edward I., 1283, and that of Richard II., 1398, called the Great Parliament, were held within the monastery. At the dissolution of 1513, when the property and possessions of this monastery fell to the crown, the burgesses of Shrewsbury presented a petition that the abbey might be converted into a college or free school, to which request Henry refused to accede, alleging as a reason his intention of erecting Shrewsbury into a bishopric, the diocese of which was to include the counties of Salop and Staffordshire, and the endowments to consist of the monastic revenues. Dr. Bouchier, the last abbot of Leicester, was actually nominated Bishop of Shrewsbury, and hence it is said arose the appellation “Proud Salopians,” founded on the tradition that the inhabitants rejected the offer of having their borough converted into a city. The bailiffs and principal inhabitants of the city in vain petitioned their monarch to spare the buildings of the monastery. On the 22nd of July, 1546, Henry VIII. granted the site of the dissolved abbey to Edward Watson and Henry Henderson, who the next day conveyed the same to William Langley, a tailor, in whose family it continued for five generations, until 1701, when Jonathan Langley, Esq., devised it to Edward Baldwyn, Esq., and he in like manner in 1726 passed it to his sister Bridget, wife of Thomas Powys, Esq. In 1810 the premises were sold by the trustees of the wife of Thomas Jelf Powys, Esq., to Mr. Simon Hiles, in whose devisees they are now vested. The property with which the abbey had been endowed at various periods, comprised seventy manors, twenty-four churches, and the tithes of thirty-seven parishes, besides very extensive and valuable privileges and immunities of various kinds. In 26 Henry VIII., their possessions were found of the yearly value of £572. 15s. 5¾d., equal to £4700 in the present day. Pensions were assigned to the late abbot, Thomas Boteler, and the seventeen monks.
The abbey presents few features of its ancient grandeur, the chapter house, cloister, and refectory are entirely destroyed. In the stately chapter house occurred the early authorised assembly of that popular representation in the constitution of this kingdom, to which, under Providence, Englishmen have been indebted for much of their subsequent prosperity. From the important state affairs which were transacted here in 1307–8 it was denominated the Great Parliament. The cross of Canterbury was brought here, upon which the lords spiritual and temporal were sworn to observe and keep all the statutes which were then made. Here too, Richard II., attended by a numerous guard of Cheshire men, entertained the members of his parliament with a sumptuous feast. The site of the abbey embraced upwards of ten acres, but it is no longer possible to trace the wide circuit of the ancient embattled walls. In 1836, on excavating near the site of the chapter house, a leaden seal was found, which had once been appended to a bull from the pope, whose name is thus inscribed on it:—INNOCENTUS. P.P. IIII. The most interesting portions of the ruins is a little octagonal structure, six feet in diameter, which is generally called the Stone Pulpit, the admiration of every antiquary and person of taste. Some broken steps lead to the interior through a narrow flat arched door on each side. The south part stands upon a portion of a ruined wall, and originally looked into one of the outer courts. The corresponding moiety projected considerably within the hall, and rests upon a single corbel, terminating in a head. From this point it gradually spreads, with a variety of delicately ribbed mouldings, until it forms the basement under the floor. The whole is crowned with a dome of stone work, at about eight feet from the base, supported on six narrow pointed arches, rising from pillars similar to the mullions of the windows. One of the remaining sides of the octagon is a solid blank wall, and the other contains the door. The roof within is vaulted on eight delicate ribs springing out of the wall, and adorned at their intersection in the centre, by a boss representing an open flower, on which is displayed a delicate sculpture of the crucifixion. The spaces between the divisions of the three northern arches, are filled up four feet above the base, with stone panels, over which they are entirely open, and the light thus introduced is productive of a beautiful effect. On the centre panel is a rich piece of sculpture designed to represent the annunciation. The right hand panel bears the images of St. Peter and St. Paul; that on the left St. Wenefrede and the abbot Beuno. The architecture of this interesting structure is referred to the time of Henry VIII. Much conjecture has arisen among antiquaries respecting its probable use, but there can be little doubt that it originally projected from the wall of the refectory, and was used as a pulpit, from which one of the junior brethren of the monastery, in compliance with the rule of the Benedictine order, daily read or recited aloud, during meal times, a subject of divinity to the monks during dinner. Southward from the pulpit is a range of red sand stone building, now incorporated with the abbey house. To the south east is the abbot lodge, of which the only remnant is a portion of the cloister, consisting of three pointed arches. The dormitory was cut through on the formation of a new line of road in 1836.
Shrewsbury Castle.—The events which belong to the Castle are intimately connected with the history of the town, where they are more fully noticed. Its founder, Roger de Montgomery, made it his residence soon after the Conquest, and it became the chief seat of his baronial power. As his new possessions had been acquired by the sword, Earl Roger considered the inhabitants as his property; therefore, to afford an eligible site for his new buildings, he is stated to have destroyed fifty houses; a fifth part of the town at that period. After the fall of the great house of Montgomery, in the reign of Henry I., on the forfeiture of Earl Robert de Belesme, the Castle became a royal fortress. Its defence was entrusted to a constable, usually the sheriff, who maintained the prison of the county within its walls; and the vast possessions annexed to it were parcelled out among various knights, on the condition of their keeping castle-ward for a certain number of days during war. During the turbulent reign of Henry III. the castle fell into great dilapidation; but his son, Edward I., immediately on his accession, almost entirely rebuilt the structure. The stronger portion of the castle now remaining was probably erected by direction of that monarch, being in the style generally adopted during his reign.
It was at this time considered rather as a place of great consequence in protecting the country from the invasions of the Welsh, than as a royal or baronial residence. By the union with Wales all apprehensions on this ground vanished, and the importance of the castle as a fortress ceased. In the time of Henry VIII. it seems to have been rapidly hastening to decay. Leland, who then saw it, observes that it had been a “stronge thynge, but now much in mine.” In the reign of Elizabeth, a grant was made of its site and buildings to Richard Onslow, Esq., who subsequently transferred his interest in it to the corporation.
During the civil war, in the reign of Charles I., the Castle resumed some share of its former importance, and was garrisoned for the royal party. The dilapidated walls were repaired, and its gates strongly fortified. After its surrender to the parliamentary forces, in 1645, it escaped the destruction that fell upon many other castles, owing to the circumstance of its being entrusted by the House of Commons to the government of Colonel Mitton, a native of the county, who, displeased with the virulent persecution of the king, soon after resigned his commission. Colonel Mackworth was then appointed governor, and he was succeeded by Colonel Hunt. On the restoration of Charles II., the property of the Castle returned to the burgesses, who in 1663 surrendered it to the king. That monarch shortly afterwards presented it to Viscount Newport, afterwards Earl of Bradford. The garrison at this time consisted of two companies with their officers; the daily expenses of which, as given in an old record, are stated at £8. 17s., or £3,230. 5s. per annum. The Castle continued in a fortified state, and had a large magazine of arms, which was not removed till the reign of James II. It is probable that the out-works were in a great measure destroyed, and its ancient chapel demolished, about this period. The part still remaining was leased by the Earl of Bradford to Mr. Gosnell. About the year 1730, this gentleman converted it into a gloomy habitation, in which state it remained until Sir William Pulteney repaired and greatly improved it. The outer walls of the Castle are now undergoing a complete reparation by the present proprietor, the Duke of Cleveland.
The Castle stands boldly elevated on a considerable eminence on the narrow isthmus formed by the windings of the Severn, which in every other part, by surrounding Shrewsbury, formed a portion of its defence. It has undergone so many changes, and has suffered so much from the dilapidations of time, that it is not easy to form any correct notion of its original state. Its appearance does not convey an adequate idea of the size, stateliness, or the strength of a great baronial fortress, placed in so important a position as Shrewsbury was once esteemed. The present buildings are of red free stone, and consist of the keep, the walls of the inner court, and the great arch of the interior gate. How far the original fortifications extended cannot now be absolutely determined. It is probable that the usual appendages of feudal castles, the outer court or ballium, with its strong gate, portcullis, and towers, once made part of the fortress, and extended, perhaps, beyond the Council House. The keep is a square building of great strength, connected with two round towers, embattled and pierced, and originally consisted of one great apartment on each of the upper floors. The interior as well as the exterior has been greatly altered. In the vestibule is a statue of the founder, Roger de Montgomery. A handsome stone staircase, of modern construction, leads from the vestibule to the principal apartments. The drawing room, a spacious and handsome apartment, was used as a guard chamber in the time of Charles I. A narrow stone staircase within the wall, lighted by chinks, leads to an apartment in the western tower, in which was a recess, with a strong groined ceiling, and small sharp pointed windows. This building does not appear older than the time of Henry III.; the beams are of an immense size, and the walls are ten feet in thickness. The battlements of the walls are pierced with narrow cruciform openings, called loops or oilets, which were intended for the convenience of the cross-bowmen. The noble arch of the gateway is the only existing part of the original Norman fortress of Roger de Montgomery. It is eighteen feet high, semi-circular, and with plain round facings; and its walls appear to have sustained a tower, from which hung the portcullis. On the east side of the court is a postern, built probably in the time of Charles I., when the fortress was restored; and near it are the massive foundations of an ancient tower. The Castle still retains one mark of its ancient dignity, for in the area of the inner court the knights of the shire are nominated, and from time immemorial have been girt with their swords by the sheriff.
On the south side of the court is a lofty mount, which rises abruptly from the Severn, the summit of which is crowned with ruinous walls, and an ancient watch tower for the purpose of descrying an enemy at a distance. This was rebuilt about thirty years ago, and converted into a beautiful summer room, commanding a fine panoramic view, and now called Laura’s Tower. From the above mount there is also a view of uncommon grandeur and beauty—the sides of the mount are richly clothed with foliage, the Severn winds majestically below—the eye of the spectator beholds in succession, the town, with its spires and turrets, its beautiful suburbs, and a wide sweep of finely wooded and diversified country, with the most extensive amphitheatre of mountains of which perhaps the island can boast. The majestic Wrekin is connected by the hills of Acton Burnell and Frodesley with the towering heights of the Lawley and Caradoc, from whence the Long Mynd, Stiperstones, and Long Mountain, form an uninterrupted chain, with the bold and precipitous cliffs of Kefn-y-Castyr and Breddyn;—thence the horizon is bounded by the stupendous Berwin range, losing its blue summit in the clouds,—while the northern prospect is terminated by the humbler eminences of Grinshill, Pymhill, Hawkstone, and Haughmond.
When the frontier situation of Shrewsbury is considered, and that for four centuries it was, perhaps, the most important station on the marches of Wales, it is extraordinary that, though it has several times fallen into the enemies’ power by treachery and surprise, yet it never sustained more than two sieges, and those in rather early periods of its history. This circumstance may partly be attributed to the slender hopes an adverse army must have entertained of reducing by regular approaches a place so strongly fortified both by nature and art; for it was not only defended by its castle, but by the river, and a wall which completely surrounded it.
The Town Walls.—The following account of the ancient walls of Shrewsbury is chiefly taken from Phillip’s history of the town:—The walls were built across the isthmus, from the castle down to the river on each side, by Robert de Belesme, son of Roger de Montgomery. The other part of the walls surrounding the town was built in the reign of Henry III., who earnestly pressed the inhabitants to fortify and strengthen their borough, lest the enemy should surprise them unawares. This part of the wall was thirty-two years in building; it was finished in 1252, to defray the charge of which the king, at sundry times, granted the burgesses leases of the tolls of the town, and other favours; among which, every barge laded with merchandise upon the river had to pay the charge of fourpence. That part from the north end of the above-mentioned wall to the Welsh bridge, called Roushill, was built by Oliver Cromwell in the year 1645, the stone of which was brought from Shrawardine Castle. The more accessible parts of the town walls, particularly on the south and south-western sides, were formerly strengthened by towers, which are now demolished, excepting one, situated near the Murivance; it is square, embattled, and of two stories high, lighted by narrow loop holes, the entrance of the upper story being from the top wall. The only portions of the ancient walls now left standing are those on the north side of the town, extending from the Castle gates towards the Welsh bridge, and on the south-west side, where they stretch to a considerable distance. Although reduced in height, and stripped of the battlements, they form an agreeable walk to the inhabitants of the town.
Gates and Posterns.—In an exchequer manuscript, without date, several gates or posterns are mentioned, to the keepers of which the coroners of the town delivered bolts and locks for their security. Those at Shepelache and at Kaymeplace no traces of the names remain. That called Bulgerlode was under the place formerly called the Gulph, at the bottom of the Wyle Cop, and Cleremont, on the top of Claremont Hill. There were also gates in Milk Street, Barker Street, and Water Lane. The latter only remains, and is memorable as the avenue through which the parliamentary forces were treacherously admitted into the town, at the siege of Shrewsbury, on February 22nd, 1644.
Streets, &c. The following are some of the ancient names of the principal streets given in Phillips’ History of Shrewsbury, many of which have become obsolete.
Mardol, anciently written Marlesford, Mardefoie, and Mardvoll. It had the name of Marlesford from the ford through the Severn at the bottom of the street, near the welsh bridge.
Chepynges-street.—An ancient name probably of the street leading from the Corn Market to Murivance.
Stalles.—The street leading from Mardol head to High-street.
High-street, formerly called Baxter’s-row, also Barker’s-row.
Ickeslode.—A lane that went from Dogpole to the Walls.
The Sextry was the Shutt from the passage from Kiln-lane to High-street.
Frankwell, anciently Frankvill; the Frank’s Vill, probably inhabited by the Franks, for in Doomsday book it is recorded that a part of the town containing 45 Burgase were inhabited by those people, who are there called Francigence.—This place seems to have been regarded as unconnected with the other part of the town; they had a strong work erected there for their defence, which at the time Shrewsbury was taken by the parliamentary forces surrendered upon bare quarter; and in the year 1640, when the plague began there, the inhabitants made an attempt to come into the town, but were beaten back by the bailiffs and townsmen.
Cheddelode.—A lane that went to the Severn, by Stury’s Close.
Bulgerlode.—A place at the bottom of the Wyle Cop, taken down in 1766.
Murivance.—A name of French extraction signifying before the walls, or within the walls.
Murivance-lane, led from the town wall down to the river.
Sheteplace, in old records written Sotteplace, and Soetteplace, is now called Shoplatch. Behind the Walls, from its situation behind the walls, now the Quarry.
Priest’s-lane, led from the walls near the tower, to Murivance, now inclosed.
Romboldesham, now called Barber-street.
The Bailey.—That part of the town which lies before the castle.
Hound-street.—A street leading from the playhouse to Barber-street.
Grope-lane.—A narrow “shutt” leading from High-street to Fish street.
Corvisor’s-row.—The same as that which is now called Pride-hill.
Shoemakers’-row.—In Speed’s map the lower part of Pride-hill.
Hawmon-strete.—Probably that now called Castle-street, or Raven-street.
Merival.—At the east end of the New bridge. Early in the 16th century, Merival was separated from the jurisdiction of the corporation, and considered a hamlet within the liberty of the town.
Altus Vicus.—The high pavement, near the Cross made in 1570.
Ancient Mansions.—The Council House, was so called from having been the residence of the Council of the Marches of Wales, during their occasional visits to Shrewsbury. It is situated in the precincts of the Castle, on a bold acclivity which rises abruptly from the Severn, and commands a most delightful prospect of the surrounding country. The house has been modernized, and divided into several tenements; that portion which comprises the hall and the great chamber over it, includes nearly the whole of the building which retains any resemblance of its original features. It was built about the year 1501. The unhappy Charles I. resided here for six weeks, upon the commencement of his troubles in 1642. James II. on his visit to the town 24th August, 1687, held his court here. These once magnificent apartments have been subdivided and despoiled of their rich furniture and beautiful stained glass. A fine old porch, and the entrance hall with other relics have been carefully preserved. The present proprietor, William James Clement, Esq., has furnished several of the apartments with antique oak furniture, elaborately carved. The gateway of the council house is an interesting specimen of the style of architecture which prevailed in the early part of the 15th century.
The White Hall, situated near the Abbey Foregate, is a stately mansion, and exhibits a fine specimen of the Elizabethan style of architecture. It is a lofty structure with numerous pointed gables; the roof is adorned with ornamental chimnies, and crowned with a central octagonal turret. At the back of the mansion is a magnificent walnut tree, probably coeval with the house. It was formerly the manorial seat of Richard Prince, Esq., by whom it was built in 1758.
Rowley’s, on Hill’s Mansion, said to have been the first brick building erected in Shrewsbury, was built in 1618, by William Rowley, Esq. He amassed great wealth by fortunate speculations in Barbadoes. His son, Roger Rowley, Esq., was the first person in this town who kept his carriage. The daughter and heiress of the latter married John Hill, Esq., who lived in this mansion, from whom the street received the appellation of Hill’s-lane, instead of Knuckin-street. The house has been unoccupied some time, it now presents a dilapidated appearance.
Ireland’s Mansion, situated in High-street, a noble timbered residence four stories high, terminating in pointed gables, was formerly the town residence of the ancient family of Ireland, long seated at Albrighton. When entire it must have presented an imposing appearance; it is now divided into three excellent tenements.
Jones’s Mansion, situate near St. Mary’s Church, was built by Thomas Jones, Esq., who was appointed by Charles I. in 1638 the first mayor of Shrewsbury. Subsequently the mansion became the residence of Chief Justice Jones. The Duke of York was lodged here in 1624, during the stay of Charles I. in Shrewsbury, and Prince Rupert made it his residence after the battle of Worcester.
The Judges’ Lodgings, situated at Belmont, is a spacious residence purchased by the county in 1821, for providing suitable accommodation for the Judges during their attendance at the assizes.
In various parts of the town are seen many curious old timbered houses, interesting as specimens of the domestic architecture of the honest burghers of former days. Nearly opposite the Butter Cross stood the mansion of the Prides, who gave their name to the street. This house has been greatly modernized, and partly rebuilt. In the Butchers’-row, is one of the largest, and supposed to be one of the oldest timber houses in the town. History is silent as to the time or by whom it was erected. It may have been the town mansion of the Abbot of Lilleshall, who had a residence in this part of the parish, and to which monastery the patronage of this church belonged.