Читать книгу Dutch Treats - William Woys Weaver - Страница 13

Hutzelbrod is one of the forgotten culinary classics of the Dutch Country. The name derives from Hutzle, a term for dried fruit but especially for dried plums or pears, one of the main ingredients. There was a time when you could find these wonderful fruit-filled breads in nearly every county town during the holiday season. Today, only a few families still make them. Part of the reason is that they require advance planning and two days of preparation.

The earliest recorded Pennsylvania Dutch recipe for this Christmas treat appeared in Der Amerikanische Bauer [The American Farmer], a Harrisburg farm journal published in the 1850s. It is unusual to find any sort of recipes for Hutzelbrod, because the ingredients were quite variable and the bread part could consist of a wide variety of doughs, although basic sourdough bread was the predominant choice. In general, since the commercial loaves were large, often measuring 40 inches (100cm) in length, Hutzelbrod was considered a baker’s showpiece, much like New Year’s pretzels – not to mention that bakeries owned ovens large enough to accommodate breads that size. In farmhouse cookery, the loaves were prepared somewhat smaller, ranging from 12 to 20 inches (30cm to 50cm). The 1850s recipe I consulted did not provide suggestions for dough other than bread dough, but it was absolutely clear about the filling. For the dough, I suggest using yeast-raised butter crust (page 112) because it is easy to handle and bakes a beautiful golden color. If you choose to use the apple bread recipe (page 3), cut the quantity in half and start the dough the night before, since it takes longer to rise.

Yield: One 20-inch (50cm) loaf, or two 10-inch (25cm) loaves

½ cup (50g) dried pears, chopped into pea-size pieces

½ cup (40g) apple schnitz, chopped into pea-size pieces

¼ cup (50g) candied citron, chopped

¼ cup (50g) whole golden raisins

⅓ cup (35g) slivered almonds

½ cup (125g) sugar

½ cup (125g) apple jack or pear brandy

1 batch yeast-raised butter crust (page 112)

Honey crumbs (see sidebar)

Topping:

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon (30ml) milk

Candied angelica as decoration after baking

The day before you plan to bake, combine the chopped dried fruit, citron, raisins, almonds, sugar and wine. Cover and set aside to marinate 24 hours. The next day, drain the fruit mixture of all excess liquid and set aside. The excess liquid can be added to mincemeat pies or used as basting liquid for your Christmas turkey or goose.

Prepare the yeast-raised butter crust according to the directions on page 112. Cover and let the dough proof until double in bulk.

While the dough is proofing, make the honey crumbs as directed in the sidebar.

Once the dough has doubled in bulk, knock down and roll out in a rectangle 12 inches (30cm) wide and 20 inches (50cm) long. Trim off irregular edges for use as ornamentation. Spread the drained, reserved fruit mixture over the rectangle of dough, then scatter the crumbs evenly over this. Roll up as tightly as possible, taking care to fold under the ends and pinch the seams closed. Ornament the loaf with strips of dough reserved for that purpose and little rings for the candied angelica (refer to the photograph). Set the bread on a large greased baking sheet, preferably one with raised sides in case the loaf leaks liquid from the fruit during baking (this saves cleaning the oven).

Cover and set aside in a warm place to rise (at least 40 minutes). While the bread is recovering, preheat the oven to 375F (190C). Brush the loaf with a mixture of 1 egg yolk and 1 tablespoon (15ml) of milk. Bake in the preheated oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until the bread taps hollow. Once the bread is cool, insert pieces of candied angelica in the small rings ornamenting the top.

Honey Crumbs

½ cup (125g) sugar

2 tablespoons (30g) cold, unsalted butter

¼ cup (65ml) honey

½ cup (125g) flour

1 tablespoon (5g) ground cardamom

1 teaspoon ground star anise

1 teaspoon anise seed (optional)

Using two forks or a pastry cutter, rub the ingredients together in a work bowl to form large, coarse crumbs. Do not handle. Keep the crumbs cool until needed. Use a spoon to scatter the crumbs over the fruit as directed in the recipe.