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These festive breads are two differently shaped versions of the same thing. The Pennsylvania Dutch prefer to use the term Schtrietzel, because the bread is generally baked in the shape of a braid, which is the original medieval meaning of the word (some food historians believe that the braid is symbolic of a head of spelt). Meanwhile, a less common name found in old cookbooks is Zopp, which means a pigtail, again in reference to the shape. Unlike stollen, which is mostly associated with Christmas, Schtrietzel was originally associated with All Saints (November 1), and since that was also New Year’s on the old Celtic calendar, under Christianity it gradually moved over to Christmas and New Year’s, and even Easter, thus becoming the iconic festive bread for several different calendrical feast days. On the other hand, Stollen is the Saxon German term for the same type of bread baked plain in an oblong, almond-shaped loaf. The stollen shape was mostly sold by bakeries, since they were often owned by immigrant German bakers. Thus, the two forms existed side by side in most parts of the Dutch Country.

Our basic recipe has been supplied by my late Lancaster County friend Ivan Glick (1927-2010) who was well-known for his extraordinary breads and baked goods. Ivan lived in an eighteenth-century log house built by my Weaver ancestors and baked in his mother’s old wood-fired stove. He preferred to make Schtrietzel, because that is how his Amish grandmother made it. So if you too prefer to make Schtriezel, simply divide the batch of dough into three long pieces of equal size and braid them together. Let the braid recover for about 25 minutes and then bake according to the stollen instructions below (or use the Saffron Bread recipe, if you prefer a richer yellow cake). Schtriezel is only lightly powdered with confectioner’s sugar or not at all; some families scatter poppy seeds over the top before baking. It is considered rich enough without sugar icing. Since the flavor of stollen improves a week or so after it is made, plan ahead to have it on hand in time for Christmas. It also stores for a long time and can be frozen as well.

Stollen

Yield: Serves about 20 to 25 when sliced

1 tablespoon dry active yeast

2 cups (500ml) warm whole milk (98F/37C)

8 tablespoons (125ml) melted unsalted butter

½ cup (125g) sugar

1 teaspoon salt

8 cups (1 kilo) bread flour

2 teaspoons ground mace

1 cup (150g) Zante currants

1 cup (200g) raisins or sultanas

½ cup (60g) blanched slivered almonds

Proof the yeast in the warm milk. Once it is actively foaming, add the melted butter, sugar and salt. Sift 4 cups (500g) of flour into a deep work bowl and make a valley in the center of the flour. Add the yeast mixture and stir to create thick batter. Cover and let the batter proof in a warm place until covered with bubbles.

Stir down. Sift together the remaining flour and mace, then sift this over the currants, raisins and almonds. Add this to the batter and knead well until it no longer sticks to the fingers, adding more flour if necessary. Form the loaf into the shape of an almond and lay it on a bread peel dusted with flour. To create the distinctive stollen shape with one side higher than the other, lay a heavy glass or marble rolling pin lengthwise on the left hand half of the loaf – this will create a long dent or “valley.” Cover and allow the loaf to recover in a warm place for about 40 to 45 minutes.

When ready to bake, heat the oven to 375F (190C), uncover the loaf and remove the rolling pin. Slide the loaf onto a baking sheet or large pizza tin and bake in the preheated oven for 45 to 50 minutes or until it taps hollow on the bottom. Brush with melted butter as soon as it comes from the oven. When cool, coat liberally with confectioner’s sugar flavored with ground cinnamon or cassia.