Читать книгу The Handcarved Bowl - Danielle Rose Byrd - Страница 32
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T H E H A N D C A R V E D B O W L
Chapter 2 | T O O L S
WEDGES
Splitting wedges are typically
steel, but can be made from
aluminum, wood, or even hard
plastic. They are readily available
at hardware stores, tool compa-
nies, yard sales or antique stores.
These wedges are used to split a
log in half (from its end) along
the line scored by a froe, or to
score the line in the absence of a
froe, and can also be placed in a
lengthwise split and struck to help
things along.
BEVEL ANGLES
Some of the cheaper steel versions
are cheap for a reason, and
frequently don’t perform well. It’s
common for production-made
wedges to have short, steep bevels
that cause the wedge to pop right
off the wood when you strike it.
These bevels need to be reground
into more gradual, long bevels.
Regrind until the bevels are
blended smoothly into the body
of the wedge and the wedge wants
to bite into the wood when you
strike it. As with most things,
balance is key. A taper too thin
could compromise its strength
and pose a safety hazard. See
the illustration on p. 101 in the
Preparing Bowl Blanks chapter.
REPAIR DAMAGED EDGES
If used with a sledgehammer,
and after prolonged use, steel
wedges may mushroom, bringing
steel over the top edges. (A)
This mushrooming can present
a significant safety hazard if
shards from the damaged areas
come flying off after being struck,
essentially becoming shrapnel.
They should be regularly ground
or filed down to prevent this. It
sounds ridiculous that such a
small thing could cause damage,
but it happens, and the stories
aren’t good. A maul used with steel
wedges will prevent mushrooming,