Читать книгу Day Hikes in the Pacific Northwest - Don J. Scarmuzzi - Страница 17

11	NORWAY PASS AND HARMONY FALLS

ELEVATION: 4508 ft at Norway Pass (4640 ft on nearby highest point of trail); 3400 ft at Harmony Falls on Spirit Lake; with vertical gains of 950 ft for Norway Pass, 700 ft for Harmony Falls; 1650 ft for both plus more brief options

DISTANCE: 2¼ mi up, 4½ mi round-trip; 1 mi down, 2¼ mi round-trip; 6¾ mi for both

DURATION: 1 hour up, 2 hours round-trip; ¼ hour down, ½–1 hour round-trip for Harmony Falls plus more brief options

DIFFICULTY: Moderate for all. Steady grade, sometimes steeper, narrow, rocky

TRIP REPORT: The preeminent first-ever look directly to Mount St. Helens is from the hike to Norway Pass, followed by the separate short walk down to Spirit Lake at Harmony Falls. This is the only lakeside viewpoint, where Harmony Falls actually disappeared after the 1980 eruption when the lake level rose more than 200 ft. A small cascade above the lake is still present and known by the same name.

Independence Pass TH is in between these hikes and worth exploring ½ mi up steeper switchbacks to a high point (or continuing to more vistas), and the drive SW briefly to the end of FR-99 at Windy Ridge Viewpoint (with restroom and access trails, one with several hundred steps up to an expansive view) is a must if visiting the region. Northwest Forest Pass required at all THs, and vault toilets are present at Norway Pass TH and Windy Ridge Viewpoint.

TRAILHEAD: Norway Pass TH and Harmony Falls Viewpoint. Take I-5 N from Portland to exit 21 (Woodland/Mount St. Helens), turn right on Lewis River Road (WA-503) 28 mi to Cougar, then into rougher FR-90 at exactly 31 mi from I-5. Continue on FR-90 less than 20 mi along the third consecutive large reservoir (Lake Merwin, Yale Lake, and Swift Reservoir in that order), stay straight after the last one (just past Pine Creek Information Center) on winding FR-25 N (closed in winter) 25 mi, turn left (SW) on FR-99 for 9 mi, turn right on FR-26 steeper and slightly rougher 1 mi to the sizable parking lot at Norway Pass TH on the left. Harmony Falls Viewpoint is 5 mi farther S from FR-99 on the right, with Windy Ridge at the end of the drive 2 mi more. From Seattle, take I-5 S to exit 127 for WA-512 E to WA-7 S 52 mi, turn left in Morton on US-12 E 17 mi, turn right in Randle on WA-131 S 2¾ mi into FR-25 S (closed in winter) 17 mi, turn right on FR-99 and follow like above (110 mi, 2½–3 hours from Portland; 125 mi, 3-plus hours from Seattle).

ROUTE: From the Norway Pass TH begin N from the traffic circle at the end of the parking lot on Boundary Trail 1, then hike steadily up W and then S, traversing the slope well within the blast zone. Climb a few steeper turns, staying right on narrow Boundary Trail 1 after a mile from the TH instead of continuing S on Trail 227A. See tiny Meta Lake below across tons of bright wildflowers July into August as you undulate NW somewhat easier. Mount Rainier comes into view just before Norway Pass where mostly downed trees (without limbs or leaves), blanketing the surrounding hills and valleys, all lie in the same direction indicating the path of the pyroclastic blast!

The otherworldly landscape from Norway Pass to Mount St. Helens.

One of the floating fallen tree islands favoring the Harmony Falls area on Spirit Lake.

Ignore old Trail 227 (usually closed due to slides) to the left (S) at the pass and also the continuation of Boundary Trail 1 to Mount Margaret, Coldwater Peak, or Mount Whittier to hang out near Norway Pass and return by the same route. Soak in the amazing shot across Spirit Lake (with many downed trees still floating as islands) to the volcanic pumice, rock, and debris up Mount St. Helens’ open side of the crater!

From Harmony Falls Viewpoint begin NW gradually down Harmony Trail 224 with plenty of low shrubs, bushes, and trees making quite a comeback. Traverse an Indian paintbrush-covered plain (in late July) with Mount St. Helens coming into full view as you descend the creek with its many little cascades near Spirit Lake. Please remain on the trail at all times while enjoying the sights and do not contemplate stepping onto the logs floating since 1980. Return somewhat steeply the same way when you have had your fill.