Читать книгу Day Hikes in the Pacific Northwest - Don J. Scarmuzzi - Страница 8

2	LEMEI ROCK LOOP

ELEVATION: 5926 ft on top of Lemei Rock; 5685 ft at Lake Wapiki overlook; 5237 ft at the saddle N of Bird Mountain; with vertical gains of 1925 ft, plus 100 ft for Lake Wapiki overlook; 1235 ft for Bird Mountain loop without Lemei Rock (plus 400 ft for Junction Lake loop)

DISTANCE: 3½ mi one way to Lemei Rock with Lake Wapiki overlook, 7½ mi round-trip no loops; more than 9½ mi round-trip including Bird Mountain loop (6¾ mi Bird Mountain loop alone); 10 mi round-trip Junction Lake loop and Bird Mountain loop without Lemei Rock and Lake Wapiki overlook

DURATION: 3–5 hours round-trip for all routes

DIFFICULTY: Mix of moderate for most routes (steeps near TH and on Trail 108, wide trails, well-traveled, mosquitoes, GPS device helpful) and strenuous for Lemei Rock (scrambling, mostly stable rock, route-finding, very steep, narrow ridgetop, some exposure)

TRIP REPORT: This listing encompasses several hike and loop options within one, the most popular being a trek up Lemei Rock (pronounced LEM-ee-eye), a break at Lake Wapiki overlook, then a loop around Bird Mountain to the same TH. You can also omit Bird Mountain or Lemei Rock and the overlook and venture farther past several more excellent lakes on a Junction Lake loop, then finish directly or add Bird Mountain or Lemei Rock and the overlook. There are around 175 lakes total (when the snow finally melts off by July) in Indian Heaven Wilderness (southernmost Cascades in Washington) worth revisiting many times, but remember to bring bug spray through August as swarms of mosquitoes will make you wish you came later when the huckleberries are ripe and the air is crisp. There’s a price to pay to catch the wildflowers in full bloom. Either way the views and experience are very much worthwhile. Be prepared for rapidly changing weather at all times. Closed late October through June. Northwest Forest Pass required, and a vault toilet is present.

TRAILHEAD: Cultus Creek Campground. Take I-84 E from Portland to exit 44 (Cascade Locks), continue under Bridge of the Gods and turn right up the circle to cross over it into Washington after paying the toll, turn right on WA-14 E 5¾ mi, turn left (N) through Carson on Wind River Road (FR-30) 14 mi NW (¼ mi past National Fish Hatchery), turn right to stay on FR-30 for 15 mi (with 5 mi of gravel road in the middle), turn right to stay on FR-30 (Lone Butte Road, Sawtooth Berry Fields) 8 mi, turn right on FR-24 (gravel, rougher for 2WD) 4¼ mi, park at the end of the campground loop near the Indian Heaven Trail sign (90 mi, 2 hours from Portland).

ROUTE: The steeper trail on the right (N) leaving the campground is the return for the clockwise loop around Bird Mountain with or without Lemei Rock on Cultus Creek Trail 108. Avoid it to begin up Indian Heaven Trail 33 (W briefly, then SW) steadily with a decent pitch through the big firs a mile to the first great views breaking out of the woods. See nearby Sawtooth Mountain and Mount Rainier behind to the N with the Goat Rocks area panning right to Mount Adams.

Continue a bit easier another mile through trees and meadows with shots up to Bird Mountain’s E-facing cliff band. Deep Lake Trail 33A on the left (and other spurs nearby) moves about ¼ mi down to Deep Lake, but stay right on Indian Heaven Trail 33 and you will start to see beautiful Cultus Lake through the thinning woods to the next intersection. The loops continue S (or soon W), but for Lemei Rock and/or the overlook turn left (SE) past Cultus Lake on Lemei Trail 34 after getting a good look at the steep but flat-topped Lemei Rock across the clear lake (surrounded by lupine and others late June into September).

Hike SE on Trail 34 up through lush heather meadows for about a mile before the route becomes steeper and narrower ¼ mi to the base of Lemei Rock near a large open meadow on its NE flank. The summit is the highest point in the Indian Heaven Wilderness and may not be doable for most weekend warriors, but more experienced day hikers generally have no problem and the payoff is unbeatable. To skip the summit or head to the overlook first, follow one of the spur trails from the main trail only a couple hundred yards farther to a little high point and clearing out of the trees on the rim of an ancient crater 500 ft directly above Lake Wapiki to the E. You come around the corner and are suddenly greeted with the sizable, colorful lake and Mount Adams looming. Return down to the Cultus Lake intersection after deciding whether or not you are summiting Lemei Rock.

The panorama is already incredible before you sneak up to the Lake Wapiki overlook where the bright lake explodes into view.

For Lemei Rock (more than ¼ mi spur to the peak, easy Class 3, gloves may help) begin SW on the solid path in the grassy flats directly toward the peak. The path fades to the larger rocks and a much steeper scree field that you must traverse. Climb SW steeply up the gully to a weakness in the narrow ridgeline near the top (look for cairns). From there it’s a short scramble S to the summit with fairly solid rock and definite drop-offs but with the best views in the region of four big Cascade volcanoes and a whole lot more! Be mindful of lingering ice and gusting winds from the high ridge.

From the Cultus Lake intersection, turn right (NE) from Trail 34 to walk directly back to the TH on Trail 33 in a little more than 2¼ mi. Alternatively, turn left (SW) from the intersection for the loops on Trail 33 away from Cultus Lake for less than ½ mi easily down to the next confluence. For the Junction Lake loop you would turn left (S) on Lemei Lake Trail 179 close to 2 mi and a few hundred feet down to PCT 2000 as the path widens through the meadows, passing Lemei Lake to the left (E) en route to Junction Lake (appearing on your left), which is just N of East Crater (one of many shield volcanoes in the area). Turn right (N) after Junction Lake at the end of the trail onto the PCT for 1½ mi with a pleasant grade up a couple hundred feet past several more quality waters including Elk Lake (more than ½ mi spur Trail 176 heads left, NW), Bear Lake, and Deer Lake (nearest the juncture with Indian Heaven Trail 33 on the right moving E). Stay on the PCT for Bird Mountain loop; directions follow in next paragraph. It’s a pretty easy walk on Trail 33 without Bird Mountain loop up more than ¼ mi passing Clear Lake (one of many great picnic spots) to the end of the Junction Lake loop at Trail 179, where you continue left on Trail 33 less than ½ mi up to Lemei Trail 34 (on the right) at Cultus Lake. Finish left on Trail 33 to the TH.

From Lemei Rock across Indian Heaven Wilderness to Mount Adams.

For the Bird Mountain loop near Deer Lake, stay on the PCT (at about 4900 ft) to the N as you only gain 300 ft in 1¾ mi through the woods (ignoring Placid Lake Trail 29 on the left at 1 mi up) with smaller ponds scattered on the traverse to your exit on the right (E) just past Wood Lake Trail 185 (heads down to the left, W, for ½ mi). Leave the PCT to walk right (E) on Cultus Creek Trail 108 up less than ¼ mi to a major saddle on Bird Mountain. You can bushwhack spur paths very briefly left (N) or fairly briefly right (S) from the saddle that will take you to outstanding vistas on the ridge crest. Bird Mountain’s steep summit scramble however is not recommended with much overgrowth and no better views.

Hike down Trail 108 to the NE, then SE quite steeply at times 1½ mi to the TH with smaller trees and wide-open views to Mount Adams and Mount Rainier most of the route. There are more than a half-dozen switchbacks to the campground and end of the clockwise loop. Voilà!