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14	MOUNT ST. HELENS

ELEVATION: 8330 ft; 8284 ft; with vertical gains of around 4700 ft for the summit, and 4570 ft for the rim viewpoint

DISTANCE: Almost 9 mi round-trip for the summit; 4 mi up, 8 mi round-trip for the rim viewpoint

DURATION: 4–6 hours to the summit, 3–5 hours to the rim viewpoint, 7–9 hours round-trip

DIFFICULTY: Mix of expert only for the summit (scrambling, steep, ups/downs, borders unstable cornices, drop-offs) and very challenging for the rim viewpoint (popular but regulated, bouldering, steady steep, rocky, blowing dust near rim, gaiters and goggles recommended, possible in snow with winter gear including traction devices)

TRIP REPORT: Many of our younger hikers were not around or can’t remember May 18, 1980 when the 9677-ft volcano exploded violently, starting the world’s largest landslide ever caught on video while spewing searing hot lava, rock, and dust 60,000 ft straight up into the atmosphere. Lakes disappeared, changed shape, or were born anew. The landscape forever changed and with blossoming new life over the decades the natural habitat and playground have also rebounded and expanded; for now, that is. Mount St. Helens is still more likely than most in the Cascade Range to erupt, but there are usually some pretty good warning signs before anything major ensues. Earthquakes on the other hand could happen at any time in the Pacific Northwest.

Rising above clouds hanging in the valley from the bottom of the famed route up Monitor Ridge.

While most people stop at the rim itself or just right from the rim, the tiny mound to the left provides a much richer viewpoint. From there only more advanced hikers continue toward the actual summit, which has been eroding rapidly at almost an inch per year since 1980 (volcanoes.usgs.gov/volcanoes/st_helens/)!

Strictly limited by a purchased ($22) permit preprinted at home, only 100 climbers per day during prime-time months (May–October) are allowed above 4800 ft. Please remember permits sell out months in advance although winter and snow travel is also permissible and enjoyable when safe (usually February–May when people ski, snowboard, and snowshoe, Sno-Park Pass required). A permit is required year-round and the number of climbers allowed increases for nonprime time. Keep in mind it may be 90 degrees at the TH in summer but 50 degrees with biting cold winds on the crater rim. Northwest Forest Pass required, and vault toilets are present at the TH and 2 mi up at the Loowit Trail intersection.

TRAILHEAD: Climber’s Bivouac. Take I-5 N from Portland to exit 21 (Woodland/Mount St. Helens), turn right on Lewis River Road (WA-503) 28 mi to Cougar, then into rougher FR-90 at exactly 31 mi from I-5. Continue 3½ mi more (1 mi past seeing Swift Dam from the highway and third consecutive reservoir passed). Turn left (N) on FR-83 (small brown sign) 3 mi, turn left on FR-8100 (quickly notice a small brown sign for the Climber’s Bivouac) 1½ mi. Turn right on steeper gravel FR-830 (okay for 2WD, slight washboard) to the end at a paved turnaround with ample parking and limited camping (bustling at all hours). From Seattle, take I-5 S 140 mi to exit 22 (Dike Access Road) driving left in the circle into Old Pacific Highway, turn slight left on E Scott Avenue, turn left in the roundabout on Lewis River Road (WA-503) and follow like above (75 mi, 1½ hours from Portland; 185 mi, 3½ hours from Seattle).

ROUTE: All hikers traveling over 4800 ft in elevation need to sign in and display their prepaid hangtag permit on their backpacks. Begin N up the wide Ptarmigan Trail 216A for a couple easy miles through the forest as you enter the National Volcanic Monument in Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Views of your soon-to-be nemesis in Monitor Ridge will come into view on the left after the first 1½ mi as the rocky moraine ridge defines itself to the intersection with Loowit Trail 216 that encircles the mountain. The last bit becomes steeper and rockier, mellows, then steepens again with a couple turns to the juncture. You see Mount Hood across the valley and Mount Adams much closer from the turns.

Onlookers gaze to Spirit Lake as volcanic dust swirls from the rim of Mount St. Helens.

Head straight (N) on Monitor Ridge Trail 216H at the four-way signed intersection through the last of the trees. In 50 ft is a signed path right 40 ft to a visible outhouse. Walk out of the woods and move left directly toward the base of the lava-formed trail filled with rock and scree, as the true climb gets underway.

Past the nearby sign for Monitor Ridge (at less than 2½ mi from the TH) you see the crater rim and several more posts with blue markers denoting the trail’s location through the boulder field. The hiking path between the rocks isn’t difficult for a bit. Then the parallel moraine shoulder left (W) of the Swift Creek Flow joins Monitor Ridge (6500 ft, 3 mi from the TH) as the route becomes much steeper with bouldering involved ¼ mi more to a weather station (6850 ft). Gloves may help with sharp magma scrambling up the taxing, steep ridge. Continue quite steeply up the ridge with a few workable choices heading in the same direction N from the weather station.

Remember trail politeness and step aside for uphill traffic (while coming down) or those passing you as you ascend the progressively sandier, pumice-covered path (Trail 216H), with even more difficult footing close to the windy crater rim. The Swift Glacier appears to the right on the final grind as you notice the line of tiny people slogging up from thousands of feet down.

Once reaching the rim of the crater, you are instantly in awe of your locale in the universe as you catch your breath! Mount Rainier reigns to the N beyond tree-filled Spirit Lake, which leads up the blast zone past the actively steaming crater domes to the high rim of Mount St. Helens. Be especially cautious near the windy rim/high ridge, not getting too close, as massive snow cornices exist year-round and are deceiving. Many people turn around in this general area and from a small bump to the right on the high ridge without ever reaching the true summit. Another mound just to the left is the true rim viewpoint. Some people wear goggles and masks to fend off the blowing dust at times. In winter or spring, glissading is a fun return option partway down from the rim near where the trail would be.

Turn left (WNW) 75 ft on Trail 216H from the rim, instead of stopping at the small bump to the right, up to a far superior rim viewpoint on one of several bumps along the rim. From there you clearly see the remainder of the more difficult route along the narrow ridge to the summit almost ½ mi (25–30 minutes) farther. Otherwise skip the top and enjoy a picnic (weather permitting) and break before the steep descent down Monitor Ridge to the TH.

For the true summit, navigate the faint, rocky path W a few feet just S of the ridgeline over then down steeply to a saddle under the peak. Beware of major overhanging cornices near the rim, keeping your distance, as you follow the route or snow tracks carefully past the top of the Dryer Glacier rising from the left (S). Finish to the steep, wider, open slope with more tiny scree and pumice before leveling out a few more feet to the top of the volcano.

Mount Adams and hikers on the rim viewpoint from the summit of Mount St. Helens in late September.

Mount Jefferson is past Mount Hood to the S with Mount Adams behind some sweet angles over the rim much closer to the E. Mount Rainier commands respect to the NE behind Spirit Lake and the Mount Margaret Backcountry on a clear day. About 50 ft past the top is a cairn and boulder marking the end of the path. Return by the same route mindfully around the rim to the more popular smaller bumps, then hike much quicker S down Monitor Ridge with the spongy sand and dust helping you and your knees for the first stretch. After that you and your body are on your own!