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FOR FRUIT-FORWARD, DRY BUBBLIES (BRUT-STYLE)

CRAB SALAD IN ENDIVE LEAVES

SERVES 4 TO 6

cup mayonnaise, or as needed to bind1 tablespoon Dijon mustard½ pound crabmeat, picked over and cartilage removed cup finely diced celeryGrated zest of 1 lemon plus 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsleySalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteCayenne pepper to taste12 to 18 Belgian endive leaves

In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise and mustard, and then add the crabmeat, celery, lemon zest, lemon juice, chives, and parsley. Add the salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. (The crab salad can be prepared up to 1 day ahead of time, though it's better when served within 6 hours.)

Just before serving, spoon the crab salad onto the endive leaves and arrange on a platter.

VARIATION For an alternative presentation, spread the crab mixture on slices of toasted bread.

This salad is an easy hors d'oeuvre that requires no cooking. Bitter endive provides a fine contrast for the sweet crab and tart lemon. Textures are diverse, contrasting the creaminess of the mayonnaise and the crunch of celery and endive. —Joyce

This dish is one that I love serving to make the flavors of New World sparkling wines “pop.” The crab should be fresh (rather than canned) to maximize the wine's fruit flavors. If your wine's a bit tart, increase the lemon juice (or zest if you prefer the mixture a little drier). If your endive is very bitter, you can substitute toasted or grilled bread. Sparkling wines with ample Chardonnay in their blend meld particularly seamlessly with this dish, but I've had many others that sing equally well. The mustard is an “earthy” bridge that can allow you to serve this dish with Champagne-style wines as well, but I do prefer it with the New World styles. Finally, the bubbles offer a nice contrast to the crispness of the endive and celery. —Evan

RECOMMENDED PRODUCERS

Fruit-Forward, Dry Bubblies

EVERYDAY	PREMIUM	SPLURGE
Domaine Chandon (Napa Valley, California)	Roederer Estate (Mendocino County, California)	Schramsberg (Napa Valley, California)
Lindauer (multiple appellations, New Zealand)	Mumm Napa (Napa Valley, California)	J Wine Company (Sonoma County, California)
Domaine Ste. Michelle (Greater Columbia Valley, Washington)	Gloria Ferrer (Sonoma County, California)	Iron Horse (Sonoma County, California)