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CHARDONNAY

Chardonnay (shar-doh-nay) is the darling of white wines to American palates. This grape and its wines are fashionable for many reasons: the name is easy to pronounce, and the wine is readily accessible stylistically, gussied up with lots of delicious and enticing oak. Whatever the reason, Chardonnay is the most popular white wine in the United States, and it is enjoyed and admired globally.

WINE-GROWING AREAS

Although Chardonnay is thought by some wine experts to have its roots in Persia, most of us associate it (correctly) with France, and specifically with the globally respected Côte de Beaune, the southern portion of Burgundy's celebrated Côte d'Or. Chardonnay is, in winespeak, an older grape with an ancestry that is in part noble (the Burgundian Pinot family of grapes) and in part plebeian (its Pinot ancestry having been conjoined long ago with the unremarkable Gouais Blanc grape originating in central Europe). Once established in the Côte d'Or, however, the wines from such heralded appellations as Montrachet, Meursault, and Corton Charlemagne became benchmarks. Long-lived and infinitely complex when well made, great white Burgundies (almost all of them Chardonnays) are mosaics of mineral-scented earth, ripe citrus and tree fruit (apples and pears), and an intricacy of spice, toast, and varying levels of butter or butterscotch from the small oak barrels (barriques) in which they are aged. Additionally, the less oaky (or unoaked), more earth-driven styles of Chablis to the north and the Chardonnays of the Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais to the south present other interpretations, which are often excellent values. Wines coming from the Loire Valley and other parts of France, such as the Ardèche, don't have the depth or complexity of their Burgundian cousins, but have the same unique terroir-driven palate and a similar quality of ripe but tart fruit. Finally, in the Champagne region, Chardonnay (especially from the CÛte des Blancs) provides the sharp fruit and lemony backbone of many cuvées and is also used in making sparkling wine. Chardonnay is also used in the Burgundy region's interpretation of sparkling wine: the local Crémant de Bourgogne is both affordable and delicious. For the rest of the world, it's indeed the two French regions—Burgundy for still wines and Champagne for sparkling wines—that have supplied the road map.

Chardonnay is grown in the northeast of Italy (in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, among other regions), where clean and refreshing wines are styled much like the local Pinot Grigio: light, pure, and crisp. In Italy, as everywhere, there are examples of wines that are Burgundy-style, and these are most often found in Tuscany. Many other European countries have their own versions of Chardonnay. Those from Germany's Pfalz, Austria's Styria, and Spain's Navarra are among the most successful, displaying ample weight and aromatics and employing varying levels of oak. Cava, the appellation of the workhorse sparkling wine from Spain's Catalonia, has since the mid-1990s permitted the use of Chardonnay in its méthode traditionnelle wines, which were historically blended only from local grapes such as Xarel-lo and Viura, and the results have been very good.

Australia is producing some of the finest Chardonnay anywhere, ranging from the rich, oak-laden styles of the Hunter Valley to the crisper, tree-fruit-nuanced examples of the Clare Valley. Australia was once known for the same overdone, overoaked interpretations that plagued California early on, but Australian winemakers have, over the past two decades, blown that provincial approach out of the water. Instead of the old Chateau Two-by-Fours, world-class efforts are being vinified in microclimates as widespread as Western Australia's Margaret River, the Adelaide Hills of South Australia, and the island of Tasmania, where Chardonnay is used for both still and sparkling wines. Complex stone fruit, tree fruit, and citrus flavors, rich, waxy textures, and a deft use of oak identify Australia's best bottlings today. Look for the tropical-scented wines of New Zealand's Gisborne region and the Auckland area (Kumeu-Huapai), as well as South Africa's Stellenbosch and Paarl—countries and regions considered young and emerging stars in Chardonnay whose wines are getting better with each vintage.

The Americas, both north and south, are avid players in the Chardonnay arena. A sound majority of the fifty U.S. states bottle Chardonnay. While, in my opinion, the best of the breed still come from California (the Carneros vineyards of Napa and Sonoma, Sonoma's Russian River, Santa Ynez's Santa Rita Hills, and Mendocino's Anderson Valley, among other areas), formidable wines are being made in unexpected states, including New York, Virginia, Maryland, and even Texas. American wines have, like their Australian counterparts, benefited from the discovery of cooler microclimates within the regions where Chardonnay has traditionally flourished. The range of styles is immense: Carneros Chardonnays exhibit a green-apple and lemon personality with bright acidity, while those that come from Santa Barbara exhibit tropical pineapple and guava flavors with secondary notes of peach and pear, and the Russian River Valley wines are waxy and lush with a note of dense melon and apple fruit. Continuing up the Pacific coast, Oregon and Washington's best Chardonnays are distinct, with slightly less body but great structure, as you might expect at more northerly latitudes, and some of the recent examples of British Columbia's best Okanagan Valley Chardonnays show promise.

Chardonnays from Chile and Argentina as a general rule display personality traits somewhere between those of California and those of northern Italy, with the best examples rivaling the Burgundy-style interpretations from the latter area. For now, the most notable efforts come from Chile's Casablanca region and Argentina's Mendoza, especially the higher-altitude vineyards of Argentina such as the Uco Valley.

A table of principal wine-growing regions for Chardonnay appears on pages 265-67.

VINTNER CHOICES

Still or sparkling; clones or selections; skin contact or none; wood or no wood; new or older wood; type and size of wood; use and percentage of barrel fermentation; use and percentage of malolactic fermentation (ML); lees stirring

The most significant choice for the vintner is whether to make still or sparkling wine. For sparkling wines, the decisions on production techniques and ripeness of the grapes at harvest will be made long before the crushing and pressing begin, because the grapes for bubbly require many viticultural choices. Chardonnay for sparkling wine is always picked at lower sugar levels and pressed quickly but gently, while the grapes for still wine are left out on the vine longer to ripen and develop more mature flavors. Prior to fermentation, the wine may also be left in contact with the skins for longer to extract more flavor. Deciding on the selection or clone of Chardonnay is important, as Chardonnay is generally not blended with other varietals (grape types): complexity is achieved through blending grapes from different vineyards, choosing smaller lots within vineyards, and using differing selections of Chardonnay. Selections of Chardonnay are like relatives within a family. Although they come from the same ancestors and are genetically similar, environment and experience also affect their character: siblings may differ from one another emotionally and physically as much as oil does from vinegar.

Vintners sometimes leave the fermenting wine must (the combination of grape pulp and solids) in contact with its skins. In white wine production, this process “pops” the fruit character of the wine by extracting components from the skins that make the wine very opulent and flashy. The downside is that, over time, the wines often brown and oxidize (that is, age) more quickly and can ultimately seem more like sherry than Chardonnay.

Oak, the wood employed for most wine barrels, contributes key elements to many wines. The butter or butterscotch flavors that many people identify with Chardonnay come not from the grape but from the oak, from the aging or actual fermenting of the wine in the barrel. Oak bestows a waxy, velvety texture and can add a sweet buttercream flavor to the wine. The flavors of charring or toasting picked up when the staves of the barrels are bent over an open flame, a common technique for making wine barrels, also influence the wine. As a rule, the heavier the toasting or charring of the staves, the greater the effect on the wine. Heavily toasted barrels impart more intense roasted and toasted flavors (think caramel, molasses, toffee, coffee, and burnt sugar) to the wine. The age of the barrels employed is also significant, as new oak contributes much more flavor than older, previously used oak—which, depending on the wine and the grapes, may be a better choice. The size of the oak vessel is critical: the smaller the barrel, the larger the surface area of wine exposed to the wood, and the stronger the oak influence. Then again, some producers want minimal or no oak used, as they feel it distracts from the purity of the fruit. Many winemakers in Chablis (France) and other producers around the world now making wine labeled as “unoaked” vinify their Chardonnay in this manner.

The implementation of malolactic fermentation (or ML) can soften the wine's acidic edge and adds a strong buttered-popcorn flavor. It can be entirely prevented in the winemaking process or allowed to happen in some portion of the wine, which is then blended with the rest; again, this is a vintner's choice. ML, by converting wine's malic acid (the same sharp acid found in tart green apples) into milder lactic acid (that in sour cream, yogurt, etc.), reduces the tartness of the wine and contributes a velvety smooth texture that for many wine lovers is a source of great enjoyment. This smooth texture of the wine is commonly referred to as its mouthfeel. It's considered particularly important in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

During alcoholic fermentation, as the yeast metabolizes the sugar and produces alcohol, the dead yeast cells (lees) tumble slowly to the bottom of the fermentation vessel. When the wine is stirred or agitated, they can add additional toasty flavors, along with more texture and yet another dimension of complexity. Lees stirring, as this process is called, is an increasingly common practice that originated in Burgundy.

FLAVORS

Fruit: Lemon, lime, grapefruit, tangerine, Mandarin orange, peach, nectarine, pear, apple, pineapple, fig, guava, melon, banana, marmalade, pie fruit, mango, passion fruit, kiwi, quince, cucumber

Floral: Mint, lemongrass, verbena, lemon thyme, aromatic white flowers, lemon, lime, or citrus blossoms, blond tobacco

Earth: Minerals, stones, gunflint, steel, mushrooms, chalk, forest floor (humus)

Wood (oak): Smoke, cream, vanilla, custard, caramel, bread crust, burnt sugar, molasses, maple syrup, honey, toast, coconut, hazelnut, almond, walnut, cashew, nutmeg, ginger

Other: Popcorn, butter, butterscotch, yeast, plain yogurt, cornmeal, oatmeal, flan, lemon curd

WINE AND FOOD PAIRING

INGREDIENTS AND STYLES

First off, it is easy to “lose” Chardonnay behind food. Chardonnay's personality and flavors can be easily dominated by dishes that are too rich, strong, or bold for its forward yet subtle personality. Chardonnay is best matched with foods that are enhanced by its round, full, and often silky character. Various shellfish (lobster, scallops, prawns, and shrimp) are classic and time-honored table partners, especially when accompanied by a rich sauce: drawn butter or a modification of a cream or butter sauce. The same is true for milder poultry (chicken, quail, and turkey), white meat (veal and pork), fish (halibut, trout, and swordfish), and other meats (sweetbreads and rabbit). Pastas, risotto, and other starches (winter squash and polenta) provide a great textural backdrop for many Chardonnays when paired with compatible food ingredients.

The cuisines of Hawaii and South Florida, with their reliance on tropical tastes, are particularly well suited to young fruit-forward Chardonnays, such as those coming from the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. Nuevo Latino cooking, with its myriad sources of sweet and implied sweet ingredients, is another great partner for many similar Chardonnays and for the Chardonnays from Chile and Argentina.

METHODS OF COOKING

As so many Chardonnays spend some time in the barrel, knowing how to play off the wood or oak aging is useful. Try oak-aged Chardonnays with lightly smoked or grilled dishes and those with traits similar to those imparted by the oak: sweet spices, toast, caramel, and vanilla. It is said that the acclaimed French chef Alain Senderens developed his globally renowned lobster in vanilla sauce specifically to match the countless white Burgundies served in his former restaurant, L'Archestrate. If the Chardonnay you have selected is influenced by malolactic fermentation (that is, it has a buttery or buttered-popcorn aroma and flavor), attempt to match that core personality by sauteing or poaching with butter or incorporating butter into the dish. The use of nut oils can pick up nicely on the toasted and nutty oak characters of many a Chardonnay, and you can also add raw nuts to a dish as a last-minute ingredient rather than cooking with them. I prefer to toast the nuts first, both to preserve the texture and to echo those elements in the wine itself. Other methods of cooking that set the stage well for oak-aged Chardonnay are plank roasting, slow braising, and gentle stewing.

Please remember that not all Chardonnays are created the same. Many European versions are more austere, stressing mineral and earth components: these wines are less overtly oaky and show best with simple and clean flavors in food. Good choices here would be a roast chicken with garlic or a sautéed snapper served simply or with a tart sauce or a wedge of lemon. These styles of Chardonnay are also exceptional at diminishing the richness of thick-textured dishes and counterbalancing sauces based on cream, butter, emulsification, or reduction.

Finally, if the wine is aged and shows more developed Chardonnay flavors (almond, hazelnut, sherry, and dried fruit), it's best to keep the food as neutral as possible or, again, attempt to mirror the flavor profile of the wine. Using nuts (as a coating, as an ingredient, or in powdered form as a thickening agent) or drizzling on a nut oil is almost always a slam dunk. Because the acidity of the Chardonnay will be mitigated by age, its effectiveness in cutting the richness of a heavy dish is lessened. Dishes such as Chinese prawns with cashews, macadamia-crusted fried chicken, and fillet of sole amandine are good options for pairing with a developed Chardonnay.

PAIRING POINTERS

Chardonnay works well:

• With dishes that have rich textures and flavors, especially if the Chardonnay has texture (as from oak aging or lees stirring).

• To counterbalance rich dishes by “cutting” richness with higher acidity (especially unoaked, cooler-climate examples).

• With most mild and sweet shellfish, including lobster, prawns, shrimp, and steamer clams; but choose unoaked types when matching with mussels and most oysters.

• With butter, cream, melted cheeses, and anything adding coarse texture (such as white beans, macaroni, polenta, or grits).

• With many sweet spices, which mirror the flavors derived from oak barrels, including nutmeg, cinnamon, five-spice powder, and dried ginger.

• With nuts, and recipes incorporating nuts. As an inherent flavor characteristic of Chardonnay, nuts of various kinds, and especially toasted nuts, are sublime, especially with aged and older, developed wines.

• With milder white mushrooms (standard button mushrooms, chanterelles, shiitakes, oyster mushrooms, etc.), especially when they are sautéed with butter. Other textured and mild ingredients are also great platforms for Chardonnay, including avocado and squash.

• With onions and garlic; served with earthy Old World examples (such as those from Burgundy or northern Italy), these pick up on the wine's terroir.

Chardonnay doesn't work:

• If it is too oaky to match with food. If you are serving a rich and oaky Chardonnay, play to it with ingredients that mirror the flavors of the wine or, better still, with cooking methods that match well with the oak (such as grilling and smoking).

• In showing off hot or spicy dishes. The explosion of capsaicins, the heat-invoking elements in chiles, blows out the subtlety while accentuating the oak and the alcohol in the wine.

• With very sharp ingredients. Most oak-aged Chardonnay is diminished when paired with items such as leeks, olives, asparagus, capers, zucchini, tomatoes, and broccoli rabe. Unoaked and sharper examples, however, can be brilliant.