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FOR BISCUITY, TOASTY, NUTTY BUBBLIES (CHAMPAGNE-STYLE)

CAVIAR AND CREAM CHEESE ROLL

YIELDS 12 TO 14 SLICES

4 tablespoons unsalted butter,plus 1 to 2 tablespoons for buttering the pan2 cups milk½ cup all-purpose flour½ teaspoon saltFreshly ground black pepper to taste5 eggs, separated8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature2 tablespoons sour cream8 ounces salmon roe (caviar)2 tablespoons minced chives (optional)Sprigs of watercress for garnish

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Using about 1 tablespoon of the butter, butter a 10 × 15-inch jelly roll pan and line with baker's parchment. Using another 1 tablespoon or so of butter, butter the parchment.

In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the milk.

In a medium saucepan over low heat, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Whisk in the flour, salt, and pepper and gradually add the milk. Simmer to cook the flour and thicken the sauce, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks to blend. Gradually add the yolks to the milk mixture, whisking well.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff. Stir one-third of the whites into the milk and egg mixture, and then carefully fold in the rest.

Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan and bake until puffed and golden, 30 to 40 minutes.

Remove the cake from the oven and cover it with a damp dish towel. Chill in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes or cool at room temperature.

To make the filling, use a fork to mash the cream cheese and sour cream together in a small bowl to blend. Add 2 tablespoons of the caviar and mash it to break it down slightly, then fold in the remaining caviar. Fold in the chives, if desired.

Turn the cooled cake out onto the towel. Remove the parchment. Spread the cream cheese filling over the cake and roll up lengthwise, using the towel as a guide. Roll it onto a long cutting board or platter. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. (Can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead of time.)

To serve, slice the roll crosswise into 1-inch slices and transfer the slices to appetizer plates. Garnish with sprigs of watercress.

This roll is a spectacular starter for a festive meal. You don't have to splurge on the most expensive caviar for this dish to be delicious. The saltiness of the salmon roe is tempered by the cream cheese and the sour cream. One caveat: do not substitute inexpensive black lumpfish caviar, as it will stain the filling a weird shade of purple. —Joyce

Many people think of caviar and Champagne pairings and cheer. Others cringe and claim the caviar makes the wine taste metallic. This dish should make everyone happy. The cream cheese softens the ultrasalty blow that caviar can deliver by itself and adds a creamy texture that frames the wine nicely. Finally, the toasty nature of the cake roll itself is sublime with the wine. —Evan

RECOMMENDED PRODUCERS

Biscuity, Toasty, Nutty Bubblies

EVERYDAY	PREMIUM	SPLURGE
Charles de Fère (Languedoc, France)	Taittinger (Champagne, France)	Krug (Champagne, France)
Gratien & Mayer (Loire Valley, France)	Perrier-Jouët (Champagne, France)	Salon (Champagne, France)
Monmousseau (Languedoc, France)	Pol Roger (Champagne, France)	Bollinger (Champagne, France)