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FOR EARTHY, SOMEWHAT RUSTIC BUBBLIES (OLD WORLD-STYLE)

CRUNCHY FRIED MOZZARELLA AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES

SERVES 6 AS AN APPETIZER

12 slices baguette or rustic bread, cut about ¾ inch thick6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, chopped6 slices fresh mozzarella cheese, cut ½ inch thick1 cup all-purpose flour1 cup milk3 eggs, lightly beatenOil for frying

Arrange 6 bread slices on a work surface. Spread the bread with chopped anchovies, and then top each with 1 slice of cheese and 1 of the remaining bread slices. Skewer closed with tooth-picks.

Put the flour in a shallow bowl. Put the milk in another shallow bowl and the eggs in a third shallow bowl.

In a large saucepan, pour the oil to a depth of 3 inches. Heat the oil to 365 degrees.

Dip each sandwich into the flour, then into the milk, and then into the eggs. Let the sandwiches absorb the eggs for 1 to 2 minutes. Deep-fry the sandwiches in batches in the hot oil until golden, turning once, about 4 to 5 minutes total. Drain on a plate lined with paper towels. Carefully remove the toothpicks. If the sandwiches are large, cut them in halves or quarters. Serve while hot.

VARIATION Instead of using bread as the outer part of the sandwich, use slices of cooked polenta.

These crispy sandwiches are a specialty of Rome. The anchovies provide salt, the cheese a creamy component, and the bread a wonderful crunch. —Joyce

You can have these delicious sandwiches with Champagne, too, though when we were doing the tasting and testing for this book, earthier and more rustic wines like Spanish Cava and Italian Prosecco were the favorites. The anchovies coupled with the crackly texture of the deep-fried bread are natural crowd pleasers for bubblies. Let the sandwiches absorb the milk and egg washes thoroughly to add an extra richness and a stronger match with the wine. I have always thought anchovies cry out for a less refined bubbly, and, while many Cavas and similar wines are less tart, you don't really need the higher acidity with this match. Although fresh mozzarella is recommended, other kinds of cheese (such as smoked mozzarella or Fontina) can mix it up and are fun to try with a variety of wines. —Evan

RECOMMENDED PRODUCERS

Earthy, Somewhat Rustic Bubblies

EVERYDAY	PREMIUM	SPLURGE
Segura Viudas (Cava, Spain)	Mionetto (Veneto, Italy)	Ca' del Bosco (Veneto, Italy)
Codorníu (Cava, Spain)	Ferrari (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy)	Bellavista (Veneto, Italy)
Cristalino (Cava, Spain)	Domaine Laurent (Languedoc, France)