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flat-leaf parsley leaves

During the industrial revolution, London was often blanketed in a thick heavy fog—referred to as a ‘pea souper’ and this is how this soup acquired its name. It is typically made with boiled unsmoked gammon, but we prefer to use a smoked ham hock to give the soup an intense and smoky base flavour. The croûtons add a contrasting crunch, but you can omit them if you prefer.

Drain the ham hock, rinse under cold running water and place in a large pan. Add the onion, carrot, celery, peppercorns and bouquet garni, then pour in the water to cover. Bring to a simmer and skim off the scum and froth that rises to the surface. Simmer gently, topping up with boiling water as necessary, for 21/2-3 hours until the ham is tender and comes away from the bone easily.

Lift out the ham and let cool slightly. Strain the stock and return to the pan. Drain the split peas, add to the pan and simmer for 11/2-2 hours until soft. In the meantime, shred the ham and discard the bone.

Purée the soup using a hand-held stick blender (or a regular blender) until smooth. Return to the pan to reheat. If the soup is too thick, add a little boiling water to dilute; or, if it is not thick enough, simmer until reduced to the required consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Return the ham pieces to the soup and reheat just before serving.

To make the croûtons, cut the French stick into small bite-sized pieces. Heat the olive oil and butter in a small frying pan. When hot, add the bread pieces and toss in the foaming butter and oil for 3 minutes or so, until golden brown and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper.

Divide the hot soup among warm bowls and scatter a few croûtons and parsley leaves on top. Hand the rest of the croûtons round separately.

Gordon Ramsay’s Great British Pub Food

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