Читать книгу Cosmeceuticals - Группа авторов - Страница 53

The unique intersection of skincare, medicine, pharma, science, and economics collide to create the universe of cosmeceuticals. As with any field of study, there are a handful of myths and misconceptions which should be addressed. In “Cosmeceuticals: Myths and Misconceptions” [8], seven myths were discussed and debunked, including one claiming that cosmeceuticals are, in fact, regulated as drugs. According to the author, Amy Newburger [8], this is absolutely false due to the FDA reviewing product claims purely based on their intended use. If a product is intended for pharmacological use, it must undergo numerous safety studies, including interactions with other drugs, animal testing, toxicology testing, pharmacology testing, and pharmacokinetic testing, all of which are compared with other relevant studies and data. Additionally, if a product claims that it may cure, prevent, mollify, or treat a disease process, it must be regulated as if it is a drug versus solely a cosmeceutical [9].

As previously established, HAs work by gently exfoliating dead keratinocytes from the skin, ergo leaving the skin smoother, more supple, and more radiant [1]. When layering HAs with retinols, there is a misconception that the pH level in AHAs, BHAs, or PHAs disrupt retinol from working to its full potential [10]. However, this is a false claim because the HAs actually allow for better penetration of the retinols due to their exfoliative nature [1].