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Latest Advances in Cosmeceuticals Using Hydroxy Acids

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The deep-level penetration combination peel known as the phenol-croton oil peel may have augmented results when used together with neurotoxin therapy. Pretreating the facial muscles 2–3 weeks before the peel has been proven to aid the healing time by relaxing the muscles and, in turn, alleviating discomfort and pain associated with the post-peel period [18]. It is not recommended to treat the patient with neurotoxins on the day of the phenol peel because the first 24-h period of edema may cause undesired spreading of the toxins [18]. Dermal fillers may also be used in conjunction with peels to reinforce and enhance the volumizing and plumping effects that peels may cause on patients [18].

In recent years, research has been conducted on 30% salicylic acid in a polyethylene glycol (PEG)-based solution and results have demonstrated high efficacy when treating skin texture and acne [23]. The mixture allows for the salicylic acid to be released in trace quantities onto the epidermis because PEG has a strong intermolecular bond with salicylic acid [23], which is the reason for a low rate of systemic toxicity from the combination, in addition to a low incidence of burning during the procedure [23].

Additionally, lactic acid (an AHA) and lactobionic acid have been shown to be extremely hydrating and moisturizing ingredients while maintaining their exfoliative nature [24]. As a humectant, studies have shown that it is effective at decreasing transepidermal water loss while inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase enzymes which are principally produced as a result of sun exposure [24]. Hence, lactic acid and lactobionic acid are hydrating, exfoliating, and have antioxidant properties – such workhorses! The future is looking bright for lactic acid and lactobionic acid regarding all of the possible formats through which these powerful ingredients may be utilized.

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