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2: Choosing Fabrics

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Fabric is colour, texture, picture and pattern just waiting to be mixed up, cut up and stitched up into something amazing. The first part of this chapter explores different types of fabrics suitable for bag making, then suggests fabric sources, and finally looks at ways of working with colour, pattern and texture. The second part of the chapter talks about interfacing and interlining (also known as stabilizer). Mysterious and boring in equal measure, interfacing/interlining is nonetheless an essential component in bag making. We’ll look at varieties of interfacing and interlinings and their applications, but first here are some of my tried-and-tested fabric and interfacing combinations for use in commonly made bag types.


Above There is something so gorgeously addictive about fabric. Collecting it is as much fun as sewing with it. Seeing my own fabric stash neatly stacked in colourful bundles gives me a warm happy feeling inside!

Bag Type and Description Bag Fabric Suggestions Interfacing/Interlining
Messenger bag: soft structure, mid to large size shoulder bag. Denim, linen, canvas, corduroy, upholstery/home dec weight fabrics with mid-weight cotton lining. Woven fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and sew-in fleece/wadding in between lining and exterior.
Firm boxy clutch or medium large boxy bag: firm and can stand upright. Quilt-weight cotton, satin or silk, faux or real suede or leather with silk or satin lining. Medium fusible interfacing on all exterior parts then ultra-firm interfacing fused to exterior fabric with fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior.
Travel bag/large hold-all or padded laptop bag: boxy and upright. Upholstery/home dec weight canvas, denim, heavy wool, corduroy, heavy velvet with quilt-weight cotton lining. Firm fusible interfacing on all exterior parts, fleece and ultra-firm sew-in interlining in between lining and exterior.
Travel bag or large hold-all: soft and slouchy. Upholstery/home dec weight canvas, corduroy, denim, heavy wool, heavy velvet with quilt-weight cotton lining. Woven fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and fleece sewn in between lining and exterior.
Small or large hobo shoulder/across the body bag: soft and unstructured. Quilt-weight cotton, heavy satin, upholstery/home dec weight canvas, denim, heavy wool, heavy velvet with quilt-weight cotton lining. Woven fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and fleece sewn in between lining and exterior.
Bi/tri fold wallet: firm and semi-rigid. Quilt-weight cotton, linen, canvas, denim with quilt-weight cotton lining. Woven fusible interfacing and ultra-firm fusible interfacing on all exterior parts, and heavy sew-in interlining in between lining and exterior.
Jewellery/artist’s/craft tool/make-up brush roll: soft, unstructured and padded. Quilt-weight cotton, linen, canvas, heavy satin with satin/quilt-weight cotton lining. Medium fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior.
Zippered wristlet purse, pencil case: soft, unstructured and lightly padded. Quilt-weight cotton, heavy satin, upholstery/home dec weight, denim, heavy wool, heavy velvet with quilt-weight cotton lining. Woven fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and heavy sew-in interlining in between lining and exterior.
The Bag Making Bible

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