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You can use homemade mayonnaise made by the traditional or the blender method, or you can use good-quality bought mayonnaise. I find this variation particularly lovely as a sauce for dishes, such as the new potato, pea and mint frittata or lentil croquettes; it adds a deliciously fresh yet rich note that complements them.

SERVES 4

4 heaped tbsp mayonnaise

1 tsp finely grated lemon rind

1–6 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the mayonnaise into a bowl and stir in the finely grated lemon rind. Add the lemon juice gradually, tasting as you go, to get the mixture the right degree of sharpness for you. I like to use the whole amount, but then I love lemon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.