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SKINCARE DECODED • 52 MOISTURIZERS • 53

Meet the Moisturizing Ingredients

I

f you stalk online skincare-ingredient databases (like we do—we’re so cool),

you’ll see that everything claims to be some sort of moisturizing miracle. But

which ingredients are the fairest of them all? Here’s a quick introduction to

some of our chemists’ favorite moist-making ingredients!

Humectants

Nowadays, it seems everything is “hydrating.” The reality is, there’s nothing

out there that ranks all humectants. Humecants can vary a lot in terms of

molecular weight and secondary benefits. One strategy is to have a blend of

these humectants below to make your hydration game more well rounded.

UREA (Molecular weight: 60)

Also part of the NMF category. Unlike other humectants, urea seems to

improve barrier function in the long run on top of instant hydration benefits.

In fact, as skin ages, urea becomes more helpful in body care. Yes, there are

people out there that claim “Urea comes from pee! I will not put pee on my face!” Rest

assured that the urea in your cream does not come from urine extract.

LACTIC ACID (Molecular weight: 90)

Also part of the NMF category. Lactic acid is a very versatile ingredient: In

addition to being a great hydrator, it can also be used in chemical exfoliation.

GLYCERIN (Molecular weight: 92)

You’ll find this in many, many, many products. The reason is—it works! This

small molecule can wedge itself into the fatty stratum corneum’s lipid matrix,

giving skin that nice, supple, flexible texture.

Representative Humectant-Forward Products Cosmetic waters,

essences, gels, hydrating serums, and most gel creams.