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ОглавлениеMOISTURIZERS • 57
Occlusives
Occlusives are your butters, waxes, and petrolatum. As the name suggests, they
help shield your skin from the elements. When your skin-barrier function is
compromised, occlusives help protect skin and seal in moisture. The catch is
that occlusives can feel heavier and greasier than the other categories. People
with oily skin need lighter gel creams that contain little to no occlusives, while
those with dry skin may want to opt for a heavier cream that has more. We do
always recommend having an occlusive balm (think Vaseline, Aquaphor, and
the like) to spot-treat those troubled areas!
PETROLATUM (good ol’ Vaseline)
Still the gold-standard occlusive. In recent years, it’s seen some terrible press in
chemophobic groups along the lines of “It causes breakouts and also cancer.”
The reality is, cosmetic-grade petrolatum is highly refined—which means it’s
exceptionally “clean” (free of potentially irritating and harmful residue). It
doesn’t clog pores, but it can cause breakouts by sealing in dirt and grime if you
are lazy about cleansing.
MINERAL OIL
The lighter version of petrolatum is much less occlusive, but feels better in a
cream formula. Fun fact! You’ll be surprised how much these ingredients affect
the feel of the final product. Just a 1% difference in mineral oil or petroleum jelly
content completely changes the feel of the cream.
SHEA BUTTER
Shea in butter form is a great, versatile natural occlusive. With the clean
movement, you may stumble upon “raw shea butter.” People think ultranatural
means ultrasafe and free from scary chemicals. The reality is that plants are
complex. In its raw form, shea butter can be irritating. We recommend sticking
to refined shea; you’ll have a range of options for texture.
Representative Occlusive-Forward Products Balms, butters, salves