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SKINCARE DECODED • 58 MOISTURIZERS • 59

WAXES

More great occlusives that often come from natural sources such as beeswax,

candelilla, carnauba, and others. Their main drawback is that they’re, well, waxy.

And wax́s high melting point makes it unsuitable for high-level use.

SILICONES

This is a vast category, but regardless of the material type, the general unifying

theme of silicones is simply, “These feel awesome!” Silicones can be effective

occlusives without much of the heaviness. If you have oily skin, silicone gel

creams can be a great way for you to boost your hydration game between

seasons—or when your skin goes through changes—without that dreaded

greasy feel. How do you spot a silicone gel cream? Look for terms such as

dimethicone or “dimethicone crosspolymer” fairly high on the ingredient list.

A note about coconut oil

You’ll find a lot of coconut-derived stuff, but not all are created equal. For example, caprylic

and capric triglyceride are light esters derived from coconut oil. These light emollients are

generally friendly to oily skin. Coconut oil—the stuff that a lot of DIY skincare recipes will use,

and the same stuff you use to make coconut shrimp—is much heavier and isn’t very friendly

to oily, acne-prone skin. You also end up smelling like . . . coconut shrimp.

Some believe “it’s like a plastic bag that just doesn’t let my face breathe!”

It’s not completely clear how this rumor came about but silicones are an incredibly broad category.

They can range from light oils to thick waxes, and can even be functionalized to emulsify creams.

While you may come across an article that’s wildly critical of silicones, it’s important to try silicones

out for yourself to really know if your skin likes it or not. Silicones can provide beautiful textures and

can even mattify and blur to even skin tone, making it advantageous for oily skin.

LANOLIN

This is a great occlusive derived from wool. It can be an allergen, though, so look

for medical-grade lanolin and definitely make sure you patch-test before using!