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ОглавлениеSKINCARE DECODED • 52 MOISTURIZERS • 53
PANTHENOL (Molecular weight: 205)
Also known as pro-vitamin B
5
, panthenol is considered both a humectant and
an emollient. It also has great soothing properties.
COLLAGEN (Molecular weight: 300,000)
Many people may associate collagen with anti-aging claims. The reality is,
though, that topical collagen can not replace your natural collagen. However,
this chubby molecule can be a great hydrator!
HYALURONIC ACID (Molecular weight: anywhere from 20,000 to 2 million+)
Probably one of the most prolific categories of hydrators! You’ll hear claims,
from hydration to plumping to even anti-aging. Most HAs on the market are
high-molecular-weight polymers—in the 2 million-plus size range. This means
molecules sit on the skin’s surface, effectively keeping it hydrated all day.
A Very Brief History
of Moisturizing
People have been moisturizing for thousands of years!
Ancient Roman women applied lanolin before going
to sleep. Cleopatra used donkey milk and shea butter.
Ancient Chinese royals used blends of traditional Chinese
medicine mixed with animal fat. All in all, humans have long understood the
importance of using occlusives to shield skin from the elements.
That said, no matter the time period, humans are humans. We get some
things right and some things very wrong. The butters and waxes make sense,
but there are a few . . . more questionable stories. Helen of Troy was said to have
bathed in vinegar, and Hungarian princess Erszebet (Elizabeth) Báthory allegedly
bathed in the blood of young girls. (Don’t do that, please. Those methods—
particularly the second one are slightly unnecessary in this day and age.)