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plenty of white or brown bread slices, freshly toasted

Brown shrimps from Morecambe Bay are renowned for their nutty taste and delicate texture. They are caught and cooked straight away in seawater on the boats, to preserve their fantastic flavour. Use ordinary brown shrimps if you can’t get them.

Melt 120g of the butter in a heavy-based saucepan, add the shallots and sweat over a medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 6–8 minutes until they are soft but not browned. Add the sherry and simmer until you can no longer detect an aroma of alcohol. Tip in the spices and stir well. Cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring frequently.

Reduce the heat slightly, add the shrimps and stir to coat in the spicy butter. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a little salt and pepper, and the lemon juice. Once the shrimps are warmed through, remove the pan from the heat.

Spoon the shrimps and butter into six small ramekins and press down gently with the back of a spoon. Melt the remaining butter in the pan you cooked the shrimps in. Spoon a thin layer of clear butter over the potted shrimps to cover. Grate over a little nutmeg, then leave to cool completely. Chill until the butter has set.

Remove the potted shrimps from the fridge about 30 minutes before serving, to allow the butter to soften. Serve with plenty of warm toast, and perhaps a sharply dressed watercress salad.

Gordon Ramsay’s Great British Pub Food

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