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4 thick slices of country bread

handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped (optional)

Lamb’s kidneys have a fairly strong and distinctive taste, which can take a slightly spicy, sweet and sour devil sauce. This savoury is equally suitable for a weekend brunch or a fast, light supper.

First, prepare the devil sauce. Put all the ingredients into a small saucepan, add some salt and pepper and bring to the boil. Let bubble for about 15–20 minutes until reduced right down to a syrupy sauce that is thick enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon.

Meanwhile, to prepare the kidneys, cut them in half lengthways and carefully remove the white sinewy cores with the tip of a small knife.

When you are ready to serve, heat a frying pan and add the butter. Season the kidneys with salt and pepper and add to the butter as it starts to sizzle. Fry for 2 minutes until browned, then turn the kidneys over and cook the other side for a minute. Add the sauce and spoon it over the kidneys to baste them as they cook for another minute. Meanwhile, toast the bread.

Place a slice of warm toast on each warm plate and top with the devilled kidneys. Spoon over any remaining sauce from the pan and serve at once, sprinkled with some chopped parsley if you like.