Читать книгу Cosmeceuticals - Группа авторов - Страница 39

No cosmeceutical can deliver all skin benefits; thus it is important to determine the goals of the formulation. The conceptualization of the cosmeceutical should address the needs of aging skin (Table 1). Sometimes it is better to elucidate the desired benefits of the cosmeceutical first and then fit the formulation to claims rather than the claims to the formulation. However, realistic benefits are important, or the consumer will purchase the cosmeceutical once, but not again. This is the biggest reason for cosmeceutical failure in the marketplace. It is also the biggest reason why cosmeceutical formulations enter and exit the market with great rapidity, promising that the new formulation works better, faster, and with more dramatic results.

Fig. 3. Before (a) and after (b) facial images to assess the efficacy of a cosmeceutical designed to minimize pores utilizing digital image analysis.

Table 1. Needs of aging skin

If the cosmeceutical is designed to address lines and wrinkles of the face, the formulator should target which lines and wrinkles will be improved and then fit available ingredients to the goal. It is also possible that some wrinkles of the face cannot be addressed with a topical product, in which case more minor lines should be selected for minimization. Skin color and dyspigmentation problems may be addressed alone or in combination with wrinkles and folds. Cosmetic retinoids, such as retinol, can improve all of these facial aging issues, but care must be taken not to drive the concentration too high so as to induce irritation. Skin irritation can be tolerated in prescription retinoid use under the direction of a dermatologist, but irritation must be avoided at all cost in cosmetic formulation. Similarly, brown skin dyspigmentation can be treated with skin lightening cosmeceuticals containing hydroquinone.