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Herbal Additives
ОглавлениеHerbal additives possess tremendous consumer appeal due to their “natural” derivation, even though herbicide and heavy metal contamination is a problem. Botanical ingredients must be carefully sourced for purity or formulation problems will ensue [24]. The addition of herbals makes the distinction between a standard mass-produced body moisturizer and a boutique cosmeceutical moisturizer. Plant additives are purchased from large manufacturers and typically added to the cosmeceutical at the end of processing either as a liquid or powder. The plant material may color and scent the final product, but also add skin benefits [25].
Herbal additives may take several forms, including: hydroglycolic extracts, essential oils, and whole plant extracts [26]. Hydroglycolic extracts, such as aloe vera, are used in concentrations of 3–10% and are a combination of propylene glycol and water, yielding water-soluble constituents, but not oil-soluble aromatic fragrances [27]. Essential oils, such as avocado oil, sesame oil, and tea tree oil, are used in concentrations of 2–5% [28]. Whole plant extracts, also known as aromaphytes, are used at 5–20% concentration and manufactured by double extraction containing all the constituents of the plant. In cosmeceuticals, herbal additives are sometimes added for their antioxidant capabilities, but efficacy must be assessed based on the quality, concentration, and composition of the herbal ingredient.