Читать книгу Start & Run a Landscaping Business - Joel LaRusic - Страница 42

The reel mower is a specialty item. They are expensive, require more knowledge and skill to use, and are finely calibrated, high-maintenance pieces of equipment. For these reasons it is not a good idea to start out with a reel mower if you have never used one before.

Reel mowers are often used on golf course putting greens. The precision of the cut is exquisite, and you may find that as your business grows and you take on higher-end clients, they may request their lawn be cut with this style of mower. If you do purchase one, make sure the dealer has the expertise in-house to sharpen and calibrate the mower properly.

Cutting width: From 20 to 27 inches cutting width on standard walk-behinds.

Number of blades: There are usually either five or seven blades on the cutting reel. The more blades, the better the cut.

Best names: California Trimmer, Tru-Cut.

Author’s recommendation: Tru-Cut C25H7 (25 inch) or C27H7 (27 inch).

How to Sharpen Your Lawn Mower Blade:

• A dull mower blade can slow you down significantly and, in serious cases, can also distract from an otherwise beautifully kept lawn. You can tell if the blade needs sharpening by looking closely at the grass. If the ends are rough and turn brown after a day or two, you are using a dull blade. As a professional mower, you should sharpen your blades daily. You will need a bench grinder, a crescent wrench, and a socket wrench or similar tool to remove bolts.

• Safety first! Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug.

• Remove the blade. You may need a squirt or two of WD-40 or other oil to loosen it up. Use a blade holder, a block of wood, or, if nothing else, your foot to stop the blade from moving as you remove the bolt(s) that hold the blade on.

• Note the angle of the blade. You’ll want to try and maintain that angle. If the angle is too sharp, you’ll get a great cut for the first cut or two, but it will quickly dull. If the angle is not sharp enough, your cut will suffer, although the blade will wear more slowly.

• Check the blade for straightness. A bent blade cannot be repaired, and using it could be dangerous. If you think the blade is bent, throw it out.

• Start up your grinder and move the blade back and forth lightly on the grinding wheel. The first inch on either side of the blade does most of the work, so work particularly on those areas. Try to maintain the original angle. Don’t press the blade too heavily onto the wheel. Don’t stay in the same spot on the blade for too long. If the blade gets too hot, it will lose its hardness.

• Don’t try to grind all the nicks and cuts out of the blade; a few nicks are acceptable. If there are many nicks or actual gouges, the blade should be replaced.

• Use a simple cone-shaped blade balancer to see if the blade is weighted properly. If it doesn’t balance, take a little more metal off the heavy side and try again. An unbalanced blade causes excessive vibration and unpleasant cutting.

• Use a wire brush or a file to remove any excess burrs or slivers. Then reinstall the blade.