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Table of Contents

Introduction

Hello! Sveiki! (Latvian) Labas! (Lithuanian) Tere! (Estonian)

With gratitude

Glossary

Prologue: A Country the Size of West Virginia

A Latvian Folk Tale about Ezere

PART ONE: New Jersey Latvian American Girl and Trimda (Exile)

Hillside Haven

Programmed for Latvia

Catskill Summers

Latvian Bohēma

PART TWO: Latvia as a Battlefield—World War II

The Two Wars’ Long Shadows

Refugees, Immigrants, Exile

Opaps (Paternal Grandfather)

Omamma (Paternal Grandmother)

Dimmed Lights (Great-Grandparents)

Pēteris and Dārta Bičolis of Sēlija

Augusts Jānis and Amālija Rumpēters of Vidzeme

Great-Grandparents Antons and Matilde Lejiņš of Northern Vidzeme

Enemies of the Soviet State: A Latvian Hero and His Bride

Victims of Soviet Repression: Photographs of Velta (b. Rumpētere) and Eduards Rapss

PART THREE: Return to Terra Incognita

Crossing the Border

The Latvian Soviet Socialist Republic

Cold Light in Rīga

3/5 Raiņa bulvāris

Latvian Poster Art

Farewell, Latvia!

Interlude (November 1980–September 1981)

PART FOUR: The 1980s

Tuk! Tuk! I’m Home!

Rīga (1201)

Letter dated January 4, 1983 to my parents in New Jersey

New Beginnings at Krāmu iela 10/4a, Tel. 211951

Letters

Excerpts from a letter dated January 15, 1983 to my parents

Rīga up Close

A Strange Incident at the Rīga Bourse

Puppets and Masters

Practicum

Zeppelin: Rīga Central Market (Central Kolhoz Market)

Desecration

Art in the Forest

“Old Friends” (Bookends) and the Magic of Ramave

1983: A Wedding in Snow

In-Laws

Comme des Communistes: Trying to Look Chic in a Command Economy

The Controller Is Coming!

Leniniana

“Communism’s Victory is Inescapable!”

Fresh Air in the Latvian Countryside

Ghosts

Judenfrei: Tamāra and the Jews of Latvia

Roosters and Cats in Old Rīga

Jūrmala

New Life

Mushrooms

The Gift

Ad Astra per Aspera: Gunārs Astra, Our Bright Star

Crippling Humility

“Traitors”: Remnants of Bourgeois Nationalism

Russian Boots on the Ground

Kurzeme: Strazde—Spāre—Pope—Ventspils—Ēdole—Alsunga—Kuldīga

Vot, vot, Comrade Ilmarovna!

Entertainment

1984: A Ruckus at St. Peter’s

The Water Breaks

Baby Blues

Maskačka’s Edžus

A joke about Rīga’s monuments.

1985–1986 / Squeezed

1985: The Red Spot

1986: Our Rage against the Machine: Chernobyl

Is It Easy to be Young? Latvian Youth Behind the Iron Curtain

1986: Hoping for Change

PART FIVE: The Thaw

Klāvs

1987: Depression

Sandy*

1988: “Rīga Retour”

1987: Helsinki-86; “Queen Latvia is Awakening”

1988: Life in an Approximation

More on Approximation

The Beginning and End of Indian Village

1988: The Latvian Flag

June 14, 1988

Labvakar! (“Good Evening, Latvia!”)

1988: Baltica

1988: Bearslayer

Bearslayer

A Stronghold in the Fatherland

The Latvian Popular Front

Litene

Light in Darkness

1989: “Come out, justice, from your metal coffin”

“Sex scandal”

X-Rated

A Death in Piebalga

1989: The Human Chain

Too Good to Be True?

The Fall of the Berlin Wall

1990: A New Beginning

Together in Eternity

Together in Song

Summertime

First day of school

It’s a boy!

The Lenins Come Down

1991: The Barricades, January 13–21

Dedovshchina: “Hazing”

Fragile democracy, frail baby

1991–1992: A Dream by the Gauja

“And It’s All Over Now, Baby Blue”

PART SIX: The 1990s; Freedom; Farewell.

The Russian Mafia

Latvia: The Most Beautiful Country in the World