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One of the delights of Christmas dinner, and it’s every bit as good with a vegetarian main course as it is with a meat one.

SERVES 4–6

1 onion 3 cloves

275ml (10fl oz) milk or unsweetened soya milk

1 bay leaf

2 large slices of fresh white bread, crusts removed

15g (½oz) butter

1–2 tbsp double cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Put the onion, studded with the cloves, into a saucepan and add the milk and the bay leaf.

Bring to the boil, then take off the heat, add the slices of bread, cover and leave to one side for 15–30 minutes for the flavours to infuse.

Remove the onion and bay leaf, beat the mixture to break up the bread and stir in the butter and cream, adding salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

If you are making the sauce in advance, you can put back the onion and bay leaf once you have beaten it smooth; they will continue to flavour the sauce until you’re ready to reheat and serve it.