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A rich, special-occasion sauce that is wonderful with asparagus, artichokes or salsify. This is the traditional method of making it, with a whisk in a bowl over a pan of hot water. It can also be made quickly in a blender or food processor.

SERVES 6

1–2 tsp lemon juice

1 tbsp cold water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 egg yolks

125g (4oz) butter, diced

Mix together 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice, water and some salt and pepper in a double saucepan or a bowl set over a pan of hot water (don’t let the water boil).

Beat in the egg yolks, then whisk in a quarter of the butter, beating until the butter has melted and is beginning to thicken.

Add the rest of the butter in three batches, beating well between each batch. Add a little more lemon juice if you wish.