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A WINTER BROTH

Serves eight to ten.

FOR THE BOUILLON

1kg (2lb 4oz) beef brisket

1 onion, peeled, halved and

studded with 6 cloves

2 carrots, peeled and cut

in half

1 leek, cut in half

4 sticks celery

3 bay leaves

a few sprigs of thyme

FOR THE SOUP

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 onions, peeled and cut into

5mm (1⁄4in) cubes

3 leeks, cut into 5mm (1⁄4in)

cubes

2 large carrots, peeled and

cut into 5mm (1⁄4in) cubes

½ head of celeriac, peeled

and cut into 5mm (1⁄4in)

cubes

½ head of cabbage, quite

finely shredded

450g (1lb) cooked cannellini

beans or similar

1 litre (13⁄4 pints) bouillon

(see recipe)

a few sprigs of thyme

a few drops of dark soy sauce

6 slices of rustic bread

a few sprigs of dried rosemary

1 garlic clove, cut in half

good-quality olive oil,

for dousing

sea salt and black pepper

Needless to say, the soup can be made and served before or

after serving the meat: if the latter, any leftover meat can be

diced and added to the soup.

To make the bouillon, place the meat in a large saucepan

and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and then drain,

discarding the liquid. Cover again with cold water, bring

to a simmer, then add the onion, carrots, leek, celery and

herbs. Simmer very gently, from time to time skimming off

any scum or grease that comes to the surface and ensuring

that the meat is always covered, adding fresh water if

necessary. Continue cooking until the meat is very tender

and a skewer moves in and out of the joint like soft butter:

this will take about 21⁄2–3 hours. It is best to let the meat

cool in its broth, then place in a bowl and strain enough

of the broth back over it to cover. Reserve the rest of the

bouillon for the soup.

Serve the meat sliced in a little of its broth with some of

the vegetables, and your choice of condiments and pickles.

For the soup, heat the olive oil in a heavy, flameproof

casserole dish and add all the vegetables except the

cabbage. Turn the heat down and allow them to sweat

gently for 15 minutes. Add the cabbage, together with

a good seasoning of sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper, and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the beans,

bouillon and thyme and continue to simmer for another

30 minutes.

Before serving, taste the soup for seasoning. Add a

few drops of soy sauce to accentuate the seasoning and

improve the colour. Grill the bread under a hot grill, then

sprinkle with sea salt and dried rosemary before rubbing

with the cut garlic and dousing in olive oil.

Serve the hot soup in bowls with the toast.

16

A Long and Messy Business

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