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PENNETTE WITH CEPS, CABBAGE AND PANCETTA

Many types of short pasta could be used in this recipe, most

obviously penne or even rigatoni. Similarly, a mixture of

dried mushrooms would do as well as dried ceps (often

labelled dried porcini).

Serves six.

40g (1½oz) dried ceps

(porcini)

80g (3oz) unsalted butter

6 slices of pancetta, cut to the

thickness of a pound or euro

coin (2cm/3⁄4in long and

5mm/1⁄4in thick)

50–100ml (12/4–3½fl oz) dry

white wine, if available

500g (1lb 2oz) pennette

1 head of Savoy cabbage,

outer leaves removed, cut in

half, stalk removed and

thinly shredded

salt and black pepper

4 tablespoons grated

Parmesan cheese, to serve

Place the dried mushrooms in a heatproof bowl and cover

with 250ml (9fl oz) tepid water. Allow to soak for an hour.

Melt half the butter in a large, heavy, flameproof

casserole dish, add the pancetta, and gently fry over a

medium heat until it becomes crisp.

Drain the mushrooms, retaining their pungent soaking

liquor for later, and chop them coarsely. Add the

mushrooms to the pancetta and stew them gently for

a moment before adding the wine (or some of their

soaking liquor) and stewing together for 5 minutes.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil with 2

teaspoons of salt. Drop the pasta into the water and boil

for 5 minutes before adding the cabbage. Continue to

cook for a further 10 minutes, then lift out the pasta and

cabbage and add to the pancetta and mushrooms. Moisten

with some more of the soaking liquor and stew together

for a minute or two, adding the remaining butter and

turning over until it is completely mixed and well

lubricated. Check the seasoning – it will need more salt

and as much freshly ground black pepper as you fancy.

Take to the table and serve with the Parmesan.

WINE: Some dishes are difficult to match with food but

there are few wines that would not rub along with this

savoury dish. However, a white wine would have to be

fairly full-bodied and aromatic – from the Southern Rhône

perhaps – and the red on the robust side. A muscular

Chianti Classico would perhaps be ideal.

29

January