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PUNTARELLA SALAD WITH ANCHOVIES AND

SEVILLE ORANGE

Puntarella is at the height of its season in January but, I

will have to concede, not easily found. Unusually, I would

also concede that substitutions can and might have to be

made. The salad will work well with curly endive, radicchio

or witloof endive, the flavours being similar, if lacking a

little of puntarella’s special crunch.

Discard the leaves from the outside and top of the

puntarella and separate the stalk clusters, breaking them

off or cutting them from the base. Cut these in half, then

slice them into thin strands. Rinse them carefully in cold

water, then soak in a large basin of very cold water for at

least 1 hour, preferably 2. Drain the stalks, then dry them

in a salad spinner. Place the anchovies in a bowl and

mix with the grated zest of one of the oranges and the

juice of both. Add the olive oil and a good grinding of

black pepper, then add the puntarella and turn it very

thoroughly until it is coated in the mixture.

Serve with plain country bread, either as a starter or as

a side salad to a piece of grilled fish or grilled lamb chops.

WINE: The aggressive seasoning – especially the orange

– will, I’m afraid, kill fine wine. A gutsy white from Central

Italy such as a Trebbiano, Pecorino or Fiano d’Avellino or

a coarse and racy red will not be so squeamish and should

cope very well.

Serves six as a starter.

1 head of puntarella

10 salted anchovy fillets,

coarsely chopped

2 Seville oranges

4 tablespoons strong olive oil

black pepper

22

A Long and Messy Business

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