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KIPPER PÂTÉ

Although they look more attractive on the other side, I

always present and tackle my kippers skin-side up as it is

easier to peel away the skin and lift the fillets from the bone.

Serves six or eight.

2 large kippers

200g (7oz) unsalted butter,

softened

juice of 2 lemons, strained

3 tablespoons double cream

a pinch of cayenne pepper,

plus extra for sprinkling

black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F, Gas Mark 6).

Place the kippers, skin-side up, in a large ovenproof

dish and place 50g (13⁄4oz) of the butter on top. Bake the

kippers in the oven for 15 minutes, then remove and allow

to cool slightly, pouring the rendered butter into a large

heatproof bowl.

Once the kippers are cool, very gently peel back the

skin and discard it. Edge the fillets apart from the ‘frame’

– the back fillet can be lifted away easily and should have

no bone. The belly fillet should be turned over and the pin

bones gently removed with tweezers. Getting every single

piece of bone out is time-consuming but it is important.

Place all the filleted fish in the bowl, add the strained

lemon juice, a twist of black pepper and 100g (31⁄2oz) more

of the butter.

Melt the remaining butter in a small pan or the

microwave, and set it aside.

Blend the fish, lemon juice and butter mixture in a food

processor until quite smooth. Add the cream and cayenne

pepper and blend again until smooth. Check for seasoning

– I never add salt in this instance – then decant the mixture

into small ramekins. Smooth the surface with the back of a

spoon or a small spatula, then sprinkle a little cayenne on

top. Pour a little of the melted butter on top of each one

to create a seal, then refrigerate. The pâtés will keep for a

week in the fridge.

Serve with hard-boiled eggs, watercress and toast.

WINE: The buttery richness of the pâté suggests any

white wine with sufficient acidity and heft. As a change

from my beloved Riesling, perhaps a good Chenin from

the Loire would be equally suitable.

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