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Natural style options and advantages

Women choose to "go natural" for many reasons. Some cite religious practices, social and political movements or simply a desire to be a "down" sister. Sometimes, it's just a trendy here-today-gone-tomorrow fashion statement. Often expectant mothers heed the solid medical advice against using chemicals and allow their natural hair to flourish during pregnancy. There are as many reasons for the resurgence of natural hair as there are hairstyles.

For many years I had envisioned the endless afternoons of carefree child's play and the beauty of my plaits unraveling in the wind. Between touchups, I'd caress the sprouting tight wave pattern of my new hair growth. You see, in longing to feel the textured tresses I was blessed with from birth, I'd go for months without a touchup and became a master with the press-n-curl "the edges" technique. I did anything to keep my natural hair thriving under six to seven inches of relaxed hair. Then in angst and frustration, with pressure from impatient hairstylists, I'd throw up my hands and surrender my new growth once more to what had now become a way of life- styles, chemicals and burning scalp - the going price for vanity. All along I desired to experience, touch, see and wear my hair in its natural state.

I believe many women have this secret love affair with their natural hair. But through years of "burn red itch hot head afternoon" appointments, ending in straight, luxurious tresses, they have forgotten the splendor, feel and unique personalities of our natural hair. We have forgotten our hair and its sheer beauty, its versatility, the styling techniques and products, and the opportunities it allows us for nurturing and pampering ourselves. I admit it. I had just forgotten how or what to do with: "hair au naturel."

A PARTNER IN HAIR CARE

I wasn't giving up. My love for hair au naturel, a lean budget and growing intolerance for the six-to-eight-hour Saturday hair appointment sent me in search of hairstyling options. Luckily, I was working with a dear friend who was a very creative stylist and a proponent for ultimate versatility. She refused to over-process my hair and retouch new growth every six weeks. Instead, she opted for 12 weeks or more. Finally, I had found a stylist who was a real partner in my hair care plan. She opted for setting my shoulder-length hair on rollers and smoothing the natural hair with a curling iron. Occasionally, she would gently blow-dry the roots, producing more body and the beginnings of a full head of healthy hair.

TRANSITION TO BRAIDS

As the spring and summer months approached, my two to three inches of virgin hair became a bit more difficult to manage beneath four inches-plus of relaxed hair. Convenience then became the order of the hot, humid summer days. What is more convenient and versatile, with a more relaxed hair care regime, than braids? Or so I thought.

As you transition to braids, while making your way to natural hair, you trade several long six-to-eight hour appointments for maybe one daylong appointment every six to eight weeks. And you buy mounds of extra hair for braid extensions. Neck muscles and hair follicles often are strained from the extra hair on your head. You may even lose a few nights of sleep as you adjust to your temporary tresses. Braids also require careful maintenance, conditioning and washing to reduce residue and dirt. Over time, I found that braids could strain and reduce the natural hairline.

Choosing an experienced braid technician who will offer assistance beyond the initial hair appointment was the secret to my success. Braids are a beautiful option and a great temporary solution for growing natural hair without kutting. I wore casama braids for four months, then welcomed in the cooler months with a few extra inches of natural hair - and an appointment with a new hairstylist.

STYLIST OPTIONS

My stylist had moved to New York and recommended a friend to fill her slot. This new hairstylist happened to be Ethiopian and was one of the few I knew at the time who worked on such a range of hair textures. My braids were gone and I was on my way. It's important to choose a stylist who will tend to your particular needs and wants, and then work with you to maintain healthy hair.

During the winter months when humidity was not an issue, I visited the salon maybe every three weeks. Between those visits I would wash, condition and braid or twist my hair and then air dry. Sometimes I'd tuck my hair under hats or let it peep out from beneath other headgear. As my hair grew longer, I finally started to experience what I had longed for: a healthy, luxurious, strong, shiny crown of natural-textured tresses. One day during the warmer months I missed my salon appointment and decided to administer my own home treatment. After washing and deep conditioning my hair, I stared into the mirror and noticed that my natural hair had grown so that now just two inches of relaxed hair hung limply on the ends of a vibrant, dark, kinky, coily mass. It had its own personality and was poised to come alive. I grabbed the scissors and gently clipped dozens of limp pieces from my crown and began my new life with "hair au naturel."

Natural products are best, no alcohol please! Let me note here that when I refer to alcohol in this book, it is “ethyl” alcohol that I mean and not” certearyl” alcohol. It is Ethyl alcohol that is commonly referred to as "alcohol". Certearyl Alcohol is a waxy, crystalline solid used as an emulsifier that thickens or adds body to the pomade. This blend is derived from naturally occurring fatty acids from coconut oil and provides a creaminess to products.

Ethyl Alcohol is a drying agent which robs the hair of its moisture and constricts it. I do apologize for any confusion I may have caused and hope this clears it up for you!

Listed below are just a few satirical excerpts from my natural hair experience, ranging from public comments, societal attitudes and my rediscovery process.

My Facts About Natural Hair Care:

•You don't have to kut your hair off to go natural.

•Water is your natural moisturizer, so revel in the misty rain or fling your neck back under the shower and let your tresses ... flow, coil, etc.

•Color is now a great option for your hair repertoire.

•You are in control of your natural wave pattern; it is yours and yours only, a one of a kind. It's like your fingerprint or your signature.

•You control the twist, turn, coil and curl of your hair with just a little water, a precious styling tool.

•Natural products are best, no alcohol (ethyl alcohol) please!

•Convenience is yours.

•The silk pillowcase is your friend.

•Maximum flexibility is also yours; if you want sleek, straight, smooth, it is still an option and not far out of reach.

•Natural hair is you on the job! In fact, you may receive more resistance from your brothers and sisters than any corporate world colleague. Don't be surprised and don't fret. Your beautiful tresses and unwavering confidence will break them in gently, and soon they will seek your advice and natural hair tips.

•Natural hair is sexy! And you and your lover will still enjoy running your fingers through it.

•Chemical-free hair can improve your health. Moving from inorganic harmful chemicals commonly absorbed through the scalp and skin to organic products - such as shea butter and herbs - can increase overall skin tone and elasticity.

•Chemical-free hair can reduce stress and in some instances, free you from endless hair appointments to enjoy your life, and especially Saturdays.

•Compared with popular chemical treatments, natural hairstyles can save you money over time.

•Natural hairstyles last longer.

•Natural is not wiry like a brillo pad; when clean, it is soft, supple and sensuous.

AN INTERVIEW WITH THE AUTHOR

Is going natural something every black woman should do?

No, hairstyles are personal and reflect each individual's sense of style, preference and mode. A woman should wear hairstyles that are most comfortable and complimentary for her. I personally recommend that women at least experiment and flirt with natural hairstyles as an option. For most of our lives, as women, we have struggled with our individual hair textures to change or tame it. Now seems to be a great time to usher in natural hair, with the variety of hair care products available containing ingredients like shea butter, herbs and essential oils, and other non-alcohol and softening agents that are gentle and nourishing to natural and textured hair.

Do you think relaxing is a bad thing?

Chemically, I believe relaxing is bad for the hair. During the 15 years I relaxed my hair, I noticed my mane had thinned quite a bit. I believe the chemicals and relaxers are very harsh and damaging to the scalp and skin. I believe anything that burns like that could not be healthy in the long run. Again, for years I suffered the chemical irritants to maintain a luxurious flowing head of hair that I believed was more acceptable, convenient and easier to maintain than natural hair.

Have relaxers ever caused you problems?

The chemical in relaxers often irritated my scalp and skin when first applied, and I noticed my hair would cycle through various dry and brittle stages during my regular six to 10 week touchup cycle. As a result, I experienced more hair breakage and shedding when using relaxers.

Does your hair shed more now that it is natural versus when it was relaxed?

My hair-shedding pattern is very different, and overall I can say I experience less hair shedding with my natural hair. I believe my relaxed hair was more fragile and prone to breakage and split ends than my natural hair. With relaxed hair, the shedding occurred when the hair was dry or continuously exposed to heat products. I noticed a little hair shedding when styling with a large-tooth comb or during routine wash and comb out. Natural hair tends to be more tolerant of heat and dry weather, however, it also requires moisturizing and gentle treatment to prevent tangles and hair breakage.

Do you find that you have more dandruff now than when you started getting relaxers?

No, it's really about the same. I notice that my scalp is a bit drier than when I had a relaxer. Washing with a moisturizing shampoo and keeping the scalp properly nourished with a cream hairdress reduces my dry scalp and dandruff.

Can you tell the difference in over-the-counter versus professional, herbal, ethnic and European?

Yes, now more than ever I notice the difference in the quality of hair care products. There are several over-the-counter products that work well for natural hair, and for me it was worth the savings and convenience. However, I have not used many professional products specifically designed for natural hair. I'd love to try them. Most of the "professional" products are designed for use with chemically treated hair or they claim to be "recommended for all types" of hair. These products usually include some amount of alcohol or other ingredients that dry or make my natural hair coarse. Herbal formula products are far gentler and smell wonderful.

Do you think you will ever go back to a relaxer?

No. I wear my hair sleek and straight sometimes, and I love the versatility of being a quick-change artist with natural hair. One day I wear it silky straight, then a couple days later it's a textured 'fro; two days later, two-stranded twists. The possibilities are endless.

Do you feel sexier with a natural style?

Yes, I find it sexy that I can change my hairstyle, particularly the texture, to fit my mood with little damage and minimum effort.

Does it minimize our versatility?

The possibilities are endless, particularly when the weather is dry. During humid or rainy seasons I go with the flow of the weather and wear my hair in textured styles instead of sporting smooth straight hairstyles.

What is the difference mentally?

Mentally, I am confident, free and in control. I feel absolutely beautiful in all my chosen hairstyles. I feel like I have mastered the hair dilemma and found a place of comfort with myself since, in essence, I can totally surrender my hair to the environmental elements and still wear hairstyles that complement any style.

Which one is the easiest to take care of?

Both require proper maintenance. Relaxed hair requires more regular visits to a professional hair salon for touchups, trimming, conditioning and styling. To maintain my natural hair I visit a professional stylist every six to eight weeks for regular trimming and conditioning. Since my natural hair is not exposed to constant heat appliances, it is stronger, healthier and easier to manage with a home care beauty regime.

Which is the most expensive?

Relaxed hair is more expensive to maintain with the regular salon visits. I averaged about $45 to $65 per regular salon visit for regular maintenance of relaxed hair every two to three weeks. This is omitting the touchup, kut, color and other extras, which can raise the price to $85 and higher, particularly if you have long hair. The average price for maintaining my natural hair per salon visit every six to eight weeks is $35 to $45, without major extras like color.

Would you ever relax your daughter's hair?

Probably not, since I know how to nourish and style natural hair. I think most mothers relax their daughter's hair for a more manageable texture for themselves and their daughters who may want to start styling and maintaining their hair. However, if taught at an early age how to manage and style their natural hair and include proper products, more mothers may start to pass on relaxers.

How does pressing work for you?

I don't use a pressing comb. I use a hot curling iron to straighten and curl the hair when it is textured. It works well.

What do white folks think about relaxed hair versus natural?

Most white folks like and understand straight hair since it looks straight and similar to their hair. They are fascinated with the versatility of our hair in general. They seem to like and prefer what is comfortable for them: viewing black people with straight hair. Natural hairstyles will certainly separate the curious and despondent from those who sincerely appreciate and respect the diversity of African hair and culture. Corporate culture certainly has been reluctant to openly accept natural hairstyles - braids, twists - as a styling option for African Americans, and we are part to blame. When I worked for a top public relations firm, many of my black co-workers were more vocal about their discomfort with my "militant hairstyle" and issued words of caution at our appearing too black in the workplace. Surprisingly, my white colleagues overall were accepting and complimentary and quite frankly fascinated by the diversity of our hair. As we continue to change and create what is acceptable for ourselves, others will eventually follow our lead and accept us, too.

Could you grow your hair out using a relaxer?

I did not kut off my relaxed hair when I decided to let my natural hair grow. I followed a careful hair care regime with my hairstylist to minimize breakage and stress to the different textures. I did not apply any type of relaxer or light texturizer chemical treatment once I decided to go natural.

What kind of problems are you having now?

I would like to find more stylists who professionally care for natural hair from the initial growing-out stages to continued maintenance in hairstyling, hairkutting, and a variety of textures.