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The truth about lye versus no-lye relaxer and application methods.

THE HISTORY OF RELAXERS

It is a prevalent psychological theory that human beings yearn for the opposite of what we have. This is especially evident as it relates to our hair. Individuals with straight hair spend hours in the salon having it waved or curled, while those with naturally curly hair go through great lengths to have it straightened or relaxed.

The concept of using lye to straighten curly hair began in the 1920's. Hair products designed for coarse, curly textures were scarce or non-existent then, so black people created their method to soften and manage their hair. Using lye was an extreme measure, and the harshness of this process significantly limited its popularity. Eventually, conditioners and other products were added to the lye as a buffer; one of the most popular additions was petroleum. By the early 1940's, lye relaxers had grown in popularity, but their usage was still limited to entertainers, athletes and influential figures of that time. Ironically, most of them were men. Hair relaxers didn't become popular among black women until 1947, and didn't enter the mainstream market until approximately 10 years after that.

It was a black man by the name of George Johnson who first introduced and marketed the chemical hair relaxer as a professional product. Johnson was a chemist who began working with Fuller Brush Products in the early 1950's. By 1954, he left Fuller Products to develop his own product line, including a hair relaxer, which he introduced as a product to be sold only to professional cosmetologists. By 1969, Johnson Products Line. achieved $10 million in sales, and by 1971, it became the first predominantly black-owned firm to be listed on a major stock exchange.

Hair relaxing and black hair care had become big business and suddenly the target of mainstream corporations, which wanted to capitalize on the growing success of this market. In the early 1980's, these corporations began directly marketing the chemical hair relaxer to general consumers. In addition, they produced the no-lye relaxer. The no-lye relaxer kit was introduced as a mild, safe, do-it-yourself relaxer that could be applied at home. The assumptions were that consumers believed that lye-based relaxers were unsafe and damaging to the hair and that they generally were unhappy with the chemical services provided by cosmetologist.

I always find it interesting that so many would claim sodium hydroxide relaxers to be damaging to the hair. Famous artists such as Nat King Cole, Duke Ellington, Sammy Davis Jr. and numerous others used sodium hydroxide (lye) relaxers more than 40 years ago and there was no evidence of damaging side effects from its usage. In fact, the majority of men who used relaxers then had strong, healthy hair. So why are we now suggesting that sodium hydroxide relaxers are damaging to the hair, when our relaxer products are far more advanced than they were 40 years ago?

I maintain that sodium hydroxide relaxers do not cause hair breakage. It is the improper application of the relaxer and poor follow-up procedures that cause breakage. When relaxers were first introduced, they had warning labels stating that excessive heat from blow dryers and Marcel irons should not be used on relaxed hair. In addition, cosmetologists were instructed to wet set the hair after the relaxer application. Numerous educational forums, workshops and seminars were made available to educate cosmetologists about proper chemical usage and application. But eventually these educational venues drastically diminished, leaving generations of cosmetologists misinformed and without the most basic guidelines to proper chemical hair treatment and applications.

The most common mistake made today when applying sodium hydroxide relaxers on female clients is in diagnosing the client's hair texture and calculating the appropriate smoothing time needed to successfully straighten the hair. Most manufacturers recommend that we allow eight minutes to apply the relaxer. The recommended time for smoothing the relaxer varies, however, according to the recipient's hair texture. If the hair texture is fine, then the smoothing process should not exceed five minutes. If the texture is regular, smoothing time should not exceed eight minutes and, if the hair is coarse and resistant, a 10-minute smoothing period is required. The total application procedure should never exceed 20 minutes. I personally suggest not exceeding 15 minutes. Most male relaxing services are kept under 10 minutes, which explains why men with relaxed hair have fewer problems with damage control.

BEAUTY-BIG BUSINESS

According to studies, African Americans purchase 37 percent of all beauty products sold in the United States but make up 12 percent of the population. In 1998 alone, over-the-counter health and beauty product sales totaled $l. 6 billion in revenue. Relaxer kits were the NO.1 beauty product sold over the counter and represented $59 million in sales.

Beauty has become big business. And while new hair relaxers and other products are entering the market every day, there is little or no emphasis on researching the companies that produce these goods or the long-term effect they have on our hair. Instead, manufacturers, both white and black, are more concerned with increasing their profit than with the welfare of the black consumer.

It is this greed and lack of concern for consumer health that fostered the Rio relaxer hair tragedy several years ago. The Rio hair relaxer was designed primarily for wavy, abundantly oily hair, but it was marketed to people with dry, excessively curly hair. Rio manufacturers claimed that the relaxer was chemical-free, but it registered on the acid side of the pH scale, which made it non-conducive for excessively dry, curly hair. Three hundred and fifty thousand packets were sold; 5,000 people filed claims.

Manufacturers should never be allowed to promote such claims. The sad part is that major publications will not educate consumers about this kind of information because they fear jeopardizing potential advertising dollars from these same manufacturers. So there is really no vehicle or visible outlet to retrieve critical information regarding the health of our hair. This is one of the reasons why I was compelled to write this book.

The hair care industry is at an all-time low. Publishing companies are selling consumers down the river in exchange for advertising dollars and manufacturers are turning their backs on the salon industry, marketing directly to the consumer. The beauty industry overall has evolved into a chemical waste dump, and in the process, black women are losing their hair. If you measure black women's hair from the turn of the century until now you will find that the average length of hair for an African American female was 10 to 12 inches. Now, the average length is four to six inches and is steadily decreasing.

We are experiencing a hair crisis within the black community, and it is not being addressed. In February 1998, I was invited to the American Health and Beauty Aid Institute's annual convention in Miami. The theme was "Maximizing Profitability." My goal was to discuss the current trends in the black hair industry. As a guest speaker on the panel, I tried to impress upon them that the trend was that black women are losing their hair. They didn't hear me though.

THE TRUTH ABOUT NO-LYE

I find it interesting that those who push no-lye relaxers do not educate the consumer about the effect the relaxers have on hair. The no-lye relaxer is the worst hair product to hit the shelves in my 20 years as a hairstylist. Remember, commercials are geared toward selling, and a lie can be perceived as the truth if eloquently told. The truth is, no-lye relaxers aren't as safe as they are promoted to be. In most cases, it under-processes the hair, changes its texture and robs the hair of its moisture. Hair that has been repeatedly processed with no-lye relaxers becomes extremely dry and brittle. The scalp also will be excessively dry and deteriorated. The reason: consumers literally become relaxed- and careless-in their usage of no-lye relaxers because they are under the misconception that the products are harmless to the hair and scalp. They do not take the additional care required to ensure the no-lye relaxer does not touch the scalp; they tend to keep it on the hair longer because it does not burn as fast, and because no-lye relaxers don't last as long as sodium hydroxide relaxers, consumers tend to apply the chemical more frequently. Instead of receiving touchups every six to eight weeks, as is the case with the lye relaxers, no-lye users may touchup every four to six weeks. In reality, some no-lye relaxers are higher on the pH scale than a super sodium hydroxide relaxer. The problem is, no-lye relaxers over-expose and under-process the hair. As a result, the long-term effects of no-lye usage tend to be much more damaging.

"No-lye" relaxers contain two main ingredients, carbonate and calcium hydroxide. Together they form guanidine hydroxide. Guanidine hydroxide has a high pH, ranging from 12 to 14, which is the same or higher on the pH scale than lye relaxers, but it does not produce equivalent results.

Relaxers containing lithium and potassium hydroxide are also marketed as "no-lye, no-mix" formula, and like lye relaxers or sodium hydroxide, they are high on the pH scale. They offer no real advantage over sodium hydroxide; they do not silken or straighten the hair like sodium, and with prolonged usage, the hair texture becomes dull, dry and grainy.

Two additional relaxer systems that qualify as "no lye" contain the ingredients tetramethy and ammonium bisulfate. They normally come in a gel and should be avoided at all costs. The pH is about 7 to 7.5. These ingredients do not straighten the hair at all, and have an extremely drying effect on the hair.

The chemical ingredients used in a no-lye relaxer are similar to the ammonium thioglycloate (thio) solution used in curl perms and has a similar effect on the hair. Thio has a high alkaline content, which has a tendency to drain the moisture from the cortex of the hair strand, causing it to become dry and porous. This is compounded with each new application. Eventually the hair begins to shed.

If you were to blow dry and hot iron hair that has been chemically processed with a curl, you would witness breaking and shedding within 48 hours. A chemically processed curl is only safe as long as it’s maintained with activators and moisturizes. A no-lye relaxer is similar in this respect and requires that the hair be kept moist – just like a curl perm. If you are using a no-lye relaxer, make sure that you keep an abundance of Liquid oil or cream pomade on the hair. I recommend spraying a moisturizer or using a little activator on your hair the day before you shampoo it. I also suggest deep penetrating conditioning treatments, using a steam machine or a hot steam towel. Fortunately, you can switch over to a sodium lye-base relaxer. If you choose to switch, condition your hair at least three consecutive weeks before changing. I strongly recommend that a trained professional cosmetologist do the procedure.

KIDDIE KITS

The over-the-counter Kiddie Kits are simply no-lye relaxers marketed from a different angle. Again, I strongly recommend that you avoid no-lye relaxers. If you find that your child's hair is resistant and you are seeking more manageability, use a sodium lye-based relaxer. Leave it on just long enough to soften the hair, then set it to seal in the moisture. The off-the-scalp relaxer method would be best (see segment on relaxer methods). After setting the hair, you can follow up with braids, afro puffs or whatever style you want. An alternative is to dilute your relaxer with conditioners. This method would leave your child's hair in a much healthier state.

SODIUM HYDROXIDE - DISPELLING THE MYTH

The main active ingredient in lye relaxer is sodium hydroxide. This substance has a pH ranging from 12 to 14, and is made of inorganic active ingredients designed to permanently straighten naturally curly hair.

I often hear talk about relaxers being harmful. On the flip side, however, I know many women who would not have any hair if it were not for these relaxers. Sisters who have excessively curly or resistant hair and do not wish to wear it in its natural state often resort to blow-drying, hot pressing and hot curling their hair. Using three consecutive heating elements is extremely stressful and damages the hair. Chemical relaxing softens the hair and allows it to accept conditioners and moisturizers more readily. When we follow up the relaxer application with a wet set or wrap, in essence we are sealing moisture in as opposed to blowing it out. This has a much healthier effect on the hair.

Sisters, sodium hydroxide relaxers are not your enemy and they do not have to cause discomfort if applied properly. If you experience any discomfort, it should be minimum. Personally, when it comes to lye relaxers versus no-lye relaxers, I would rather experience a little discomfort and know that my hair is being properly cared for, as opposed to experiencing temporary comfort while my hair is being destroyed.

I am hard on the no-lye relaxer because I know the damage it can cause. The average sister using this product believes she is doing the right thing and is not aware of the negative side effects until it is too late. The no-lye relaxer was introduced by mainstream companies to convince sisters that they do not need a professional cosmetologist and can apply their own chemical relaxer. Granted, many professional cosmetologists brought this upon themselves by rendering inferior services to black consumers for so long, but we all do not fit into the same category. There are many well-trained professional cosmetologists who will provide the quality care your hair needs and deserves.

TO RELAX, OR NOT TO RELAX?

THAT IS THE QUESTION

Many doctors, scientists and researchers have dispelled the notion that relaxers can cause birth defects during pregnancy. As loving parents you want the best for your children. You want them to have clothing and shelter, get the best education, and develop a strong self-image. Most of all, you want them to be safe and healthy. Having healthy hair is part of that equation. In order to achieve this, you must learn your child's hair texture, understand its specific needs and respond accordingly, regardless of the child's age or gender.

Keep in mind that if your daughter needs a relaxer, whether she's 6 or 12, it will not harm the hair if properly applied. This is not to say that everyone should relax a child's hair at an early age. In most cases, a child's hair is strongest during the puberty stages. However, when we examine the average high school and junior high school student, a good portion of them have problem hair. Anytime you have children in junior high and high school wearing hair weaves, that should tell us that we are doing something wrong. Reversing this scenario may require us to relax the hair a little earlier, a little later or not at all. The point is, this is something that needs to be determined with the help and guidance of a trained professional cosmetologist.

There are vital signs that indicate whether the hair should be relaxed; for instance, if the hair is baby soft and will not hold a curl, then chances are it should not be relaxed; if the hair is very resistant but it has a lot of stretch and can hold a slight curl, you may use a light texturizer to reduce the frizz (look under texturizer for more information); if the hair is overly resistant and the child is in agony while having her hair shampooed, conditioned and styled; if there is excessive breakage when combing or brushing the hair; if it is excessively dry and brittle, then you should consider having the hair professionally relaxed using a sodium hydroxide relaxer. Sodium hydroxide relaxers can be diluted by simply adding and mixing a conditioner to its contents (i.e. B. F. Revitalizing conditioner).

Understanding proper chemical relaxer application procedures is critical to maintaining healthy hair. While most black women relax their hair for more manageability, style and control, it is important to bear in mind that hair does not have to be relaxed bone straight. Ideally, we should only relax up to 75 percent of our natural curl pattern. After the neutralizing process, only 50 percent of the sulfur bonds are going to reform the newly straightened condition. Therefore, after the relaxer procedure, only 35 percent of the hair actually should be transformed into a straighter position. This is enough relaxation for excessively curly hair to become manageable.

RELAXERS-CAUSE AND EFFECT

Hair relaxers contain active chemical ingredients that rearrange the curl shaped molecules in the cortex of the hair strand to create a permanently straightened molecular formation within the strand.

Longevity, manageability and flexibility are just a few of the advantages of chemical hair relaxing. Unlike pressed hair, relaxed hair will not revert to its natural state. Within six to eight weeks of using a relaxer, maybe longer depending on the hair texture, you should see a substantial amount of natural hair growth emerging from the root of the scalp. Chemical relaxers should be applied to this new growth to balance out the opposing hair textures and avoid breakage. When a chemical relaxer is properly applied and maintained, you will have more styling flexibility and the hair will grow. On the other hand, no matter how skillful you are in your relaxer application, excessive chemical relaxing does weaken the hair. Try to keep your relaxer applications to a minimum. Retouch applications should not exceed six to eight times a year for normal to resistant hair textures. Do not carelessly apply chemical relaxer or overlap onto previously relaxed hair because this may remove the hair's protective coating and cause it to dry and break.

In his article "Hair Loss and Baldness in Black Women," Dr. Cylburn E. Soden stated that the main cause of baldness among his patients is improperly applied chemical relaxers. He indicated that he sees an average of five patients a day and the chief hair complaints are dryness and breakage.

Many of these patients are balding at the nape of the neck and in the crown and front area of the head. Almost without exception, the patients are using lye or no-lye relaxers, rinses or dyes. The products usually have been administered every four to six weeks over several years.

According to Dr. Soden, scalp fungal infection is also common among young black women and causes hair dryness, breakage and baldness. Most patients suffering from this problem range from 20 to 70 years in age and have received relaxers every four to six weeks over a period of 15 to 20 years or more. The women in the age range of 40 to 60 often have baldness in the crown and temporal area of the scalp. It is the chemical damage, perhaps from relaxers, perms or hair color that has harmed the structure of the hair and scalp. This eventually results in baldness.

Dr. Soden recognizes that there are strong correlations between relaxer usage and baldness, but he still does not label chemical hair relaxers as the direct cause of balding. He believes that hair texture is a major contributing factor and that prolonged usage of chemical relaxers compounds the problem.

Dr. Elise A. Olsen, author of the book "Disorder of Hair Growth," believes that hair breakage and loss can't be blamed on the relaxer itself. In many cases hair loss and breakage are a result of alopecia, which is a genetic problem. Dr. Olsen does acknowledge that chemical relaxers could aggravate these alopecia conditions and suggest that we either stop using the relaxer altogether, educate ourselves on proper relaxer applications or demand that superior relaxer products be put on the market.

Dr. Sperling, specialist in ethnic hair and disorders, dispels the theory that chemical relaxers cause scalp disorders such as Follicle Degeneration Syndrome CFDS). He points out that FDS starts in the hair sheath and works its way outward, and is therefore a genetic issue. He has numerous patients who experience FDS regardless of whether they use chemical relaxers. Dr. Sperling conducts seminars for other dermatologists. His articles are featured regularly in the National Institute of Health (NIH) publication and in dermatologist newsletters.

RELAXING METHODS

There are four practical methods that are used when chemically relaxing the hair:

1. Full Relaxer

When a chemical relaxer is applied to natural or virgin hair for the first time, it is referred to as a full relaxer. Your hair should be thoroughly examined beforehand. If it is damaged or weak because of excessive braiding, weaving or heat application, the hair is not ready to be relaxed and should be treated instead with protein and moisturizing conditioners. Once the hair has regained its strength and moisture content, then you may consider the relaxer. A trained hair care professional can advise you properly.

2. Retouch

About six to eight weeks after using a relaxer, new hair growth will emerge. The point at which the new growth meets the previously relaxed hair is referred to as the demarcation line and is extremely sensitive to tension, heat and chemical application. The purpose of relaxing or retouching the new hair growth is to smooth out the demarcation line and balance the opposing hair textures. This process relieves the tension from the hair and prevents potential breakage. Bear in mind that during the retouching process, the chemical relaxer should be applied to the new growth only.

Some practitioners (so-called professionals) believe that it's okay to pull the relaxer to the end of the hair during each touch up application. This is referred to as overlapping, and is not only unnecessary, but if applied excessively, leads to overprocessing, which damages the hair. Some cosmetologists try to justify overlapping by claiming that relaxed hair eventually reverts to its natural wavy state. A sodium hydroxide relaxer permanently straightens the hair. It will not revert. If you have always been using a no-lye product, some reverting could occur. If so, a corrective relaxer may need to be applied by a trained, professional cosmetologist.

3. Texturizing Relaxer

Texturizing is a simple procedure in which the relaxer is combed through the hair with a wide-tooth comb then left on the hair for five minutes or less. This process is designed to simply soften the texture by elongating the hair's natural curl or wave pattern.

4. Off-the-Scalp Application

Off-the-scalp application is an excellent alternative to no-lye relaxers because the lye relaxer does not come in contact with the scalp at all.

Off-the-scalp application involves applying the relaxer one and a half inches away from the scalp, as opposed to three-fourths of an inch away as in a regular full relaxer application. This minimizes the chances of the relaxer touching the scalp, relieving concerns about burning and irritation. The only time the relaxer touches the scalp or skin during this technique is during the end of the process when you are smoothing the relaxer around the outer parameter of the hairline. This method is highly recommended for children.

THE RELAXER APPLICATION

Chemical hair relaxing is a very skillful procedure and should be performed by a trained, professional cosmetologist. If you choose not to seek professional assistance, then you should fully understand the proper procedures involved in the relaxing process.

Again, I am not encouraging you to apply your own relaxer, but I am supplying this information for those sisters who insist on relaxing their hair at home and for those consumers who wish to empower themselves with the information needed to protect the health of their hair. Let's get started:

Step One: Preparing for the Relaxer

There are some very basic precautions necessary before applying a relaxer. First, thoroughly examine the scalp and hair. If the scalp is suffering from minor abrasions or infections, or if the hair is limp, brittle and dry because of excessive bleaching, frosting, tipping or permanent color usage, do not relax the hair at this time (see the manufacturer's instructions on the container). I recommend strengthening the hair and healing the scalp before applying the relaxer.

After you have thoroughly examined the hair and scalp, comb the hair free of tangles. If you have oil, grease or gel buildup, then shampoo and condition the hair. Wait at least two to three days before applying the relaxer. Never apply a relaxer the same day you shampoo and condition it.

Step two: Gathering Your Tools

There are a couple of tools that you will need to complete your relaxer application. I suggest a tint-colored brush rather than a comb because it allows you to apply the relaxer more precisely and expeditiously. Some practitioners elect to use the comb. I suggest using the tool that allows you to work most effectively. Following is a list of tools you will need to gather before starting your relaxing process:

1.Clean towels.

2.Protective gloves.

3.Clean combs.

4.Tint-color brush.

5.Timer.

6.Base, there are two types: menthol, which has a cool soothing effect, or any mineral oil and petroleum-based product.

Step Three: Analyzing the Hair Texture

Analyzing the hair texture and choosing the correct relaxer strength is a critical step. I recommend that you conduct a strand test to determine the hair's elasticity and moisture content. Take several strands of hair and hold them straight up from the head. Run your fingers down the hair strand, starting from the end of the strand and working your way toward the scalp. If the hair texture feels smooth, this means it has elasticity and will not readily accept moisture. In this case, the hair will be more resistant to the chemical relaxer, so you may want to choose a regular to super strength. If the hair strand feels rough, this means it is very porous, has little elasticity and will readily accept moisture. In this case, you may want to choose a milder strength relaxer (refer to the maintenance diagram for details).

A general guideline is used to assess the overall texture of the hair. If you have very soft, thin or delicate hair, select a mild relaxer. If you have normal to resistant hair, select a regular relaxer. If you have excessively curly and resistant hair then select a super relaxer.

Step Four: Basing the Scalp

Basing the scalp protects it from the caustic reaction of the chemical application. Distribute the emollient evenly onto the scalp. Try to keep the base off the roots of the hair because it may retard the chemical relaxing process. You may also apply some of the base to the ends of the hair to protect it from overprocessing.

Step Five: Applying the Relaxer

Once you have selected the appropriate relaxer strength, place the container nearby. This will allow you to work more efficiently throughout the process. Carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. Caution should be used at all times. (Keep the relaxer out of children's reach. If accidentally swallowed, seek immediate medical attention.)

Part the hair into four even sections. When parting, be careful not to scrape the surface of the scalp with your comb. Any scalp irritation may promote scarring after the relaxing process. Before you begin your application, set your timer. The application process should take no more than five to six minutes to complete. Keep in mind that the relaxer should be applied approximately a quarter inch away from the scalp and should never touch its surface. If you are applying an off-the-scalp relaxer, the chemical should be applied one and a half inches away from the scalp, and if you are working with virgin hair, the relaxer should be applied a half inch away from the scalp and two inches away from the ends of the hair. Keep the relaxer off of your ears and away from your eyes, nose and mouth.

Apply the relaxer along the outer parameters of each section. Concentrate on completing one section at a time, beginning with the back area. Part each section into smaller subsections, beginning at the crown area and working your way down toward the nape. Apply a generous amount of relaxer on both sides of each subsection, starting with the front. Once applied, direct the hair toward the front of the head and apply a generous amount of relaxer to the backside of the subsection. Continue this pattern until the relaxer is applied throughout the entire section. If you are working with thick hair texture, subsections should be small. If you are working with fine hair texture, subsections should be larger.

If you are applying a full relaxer, upon the completion of each section, the relaxer should be combed through to the ends of the hair. If you are applying a retouch, however, the relaxer should be applied to the roots of the hair only, and should never overlap previously relaxed hair. Again, be conscious of keeping the relaxer away from the scalp as you move down the section and into the nape area. I recommend putting a conditioner on the previously relaxed hair, prior to a retouch, to protect the hair from possible overlapping.

After the relaxer has been applied throughout the entire head, then proceed to apply the relaxer around the hairline. Not only is the hairline the most sensitive part of the scalp, it also possesses the most delicate portion of the hair and therefore should always be the last section applied in the relaxing process. Avoid touching the forehead. Use the comb to smooth out and remove the four parts from the hair so that they do not become permanent impressions. Now you are ready for the smoothing process.

Step Six: Smoothing The Relaxer

Applying the relaxer initiates the relaxing process. It is the smoothing process, however, that allows us to achieve our end result. First, set your timer. If you are working with fine hair texture, allow five minutes for smoothing time. If the hair is a medium texture, allow eight minutes for smoothing and 10 minutes if the hair texture is coarse and resistant. Smoothing time should never exceed 10 minutes.

Use the back of your rat-tail comb to smooth each section of the hair. Complete one section at a time. Start at the nape area and motion the hair in either direction from top to bottom, or reverse. Continue this process until you complete the entire back section of the head. Repeat this process for the front section as well, and be sure to apply a little tension every now and then to aid the chemical processing. Utilizing your thumb to smooth the hair also aids the processing. The heat from your hands actually softens the hair and speeds its reaction to the chemical. Make certain that the relaxer covers all hollow spots of the head. Depending on how much time you have left, you may allow the relaxer to set on the hair. When the timer goes off it is time to remove the relaxer. Keep in mind, while you are in the process of relaxing, if your scalp gets overly irritated or you find that the hair is relaxing faster than you anticipated, then rinse the relaxer out as fast as possible.

Step Seven: Rinsing the Relaxer

The process of rinsing the hair is very important. Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot. If it's too cold, it will leave a strong residue on the hair and the relaxer will not rinse out adequately. If it's too hot, it could irritate the scalp. The water should be lukewarm. Also, make certain the water pressure is strong. This will ensure that the chemical is completely rinsed from the hair and scalp. Any manipulation of the hair or scalp should be light. When massaging the scalp, use the cushion part of your fingertips, not the nails. The hair and scalp are at their most delicate state directly after a relaxer application, therefore, any rubbing or scratching may cause irritation. Rinse the hair until the water runs clear and keep a towel over your eyes and face to avoid any contact with the chemical. Check thoroughly to make sure there is no chemical residue left on the hair or scalp. Pay special attention to the neck, crown, nape and frontal areas.

Step Eight: Neutralizing the Hair

Once the hair is thoroughly rinsed, you are ready to apply the neutralizing shampoo. The neutralizing shampoo stabilizes the relaxer, removes it from the hair and fixates the hair into a straight configuration. Use a mild cream neutralizing shampoo and apply it twice. On the second shampoo, apply evenly and let it set for three minutes, then shampoo with lukewarm water.

Step Nine: Conditioning the Hair

Any time we apply chemicals to the hair, we run the risk of drying it out. For this reason it is important to follow all chemical applications with a moisturizing or conditioning treatment. If the hair is shedding after a relaxer has been applied, it will need a protein treatment, followed by a moisturizing conditioner.

Distribute the conditioner evenly throughout the hair and then either place the head under a heated cap or dryer for 10 to 15 minutes. Next, place the head under a steam treatment machine without a plastic cap for 10 to 15 minutes. If you are at home, you can wrap your hair in a hot steamed towel and leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes. Any of the three methods will require you to rinse the hair thoroughly upon completion. If the hair feels a little weak after the relaxer application, you may want to use a leave-in conditioner as well.

After the hair is relaxed we tend to want to further straighten it via blow-drying, pressing and hot curling. This is far too much heat to apply on the hair directly after relaxer application; it places unnecessary strain on the hair. One way to ensure that our hair receives proper moisture and conditioning after a relaxer application is to wet set and style the hair using alcohol-free conditioning setting lotion with built-in conditioners and humectants. Wet styles such as setting, wrapping and sculpturing allow you to dry the hair while sealing in the moisture. Blow-drying the hair, on the other hand, blows the moisture out of the hair. There is a difference between locking moisture in and blowing it out. When working with excessively dry and curly hair textures, you want to stay clear of the latter.

Black women are in constant search of innovative methods to soften their hair, while avoiding harsh chemical applications. There have been numerous products and methods introduced over the years that have tried to fill this void. The most recent attempts include Copa, a natural curl release system, and Willie Morrow's Aqua Supreme relaxer, a new system that claims to contain 90 percent less harsh chemicals than the average sodium-hydroxide relaxer.

The Copa system claims to be 96 percent natural, containing food starch, fruit acid, Vitamins C and E, mineral salts and preservatives. I am like most consumers, skeptical of new inventions. I haven't tried the Copa relaxer system, so I cannot endorse it. Based on its acidity content, however, it appears to be for wavy or naturally oily hair types.

I did have the opportunity to test Willie Morrow's Aqua Supreme relaxer system. Aqua Supreme uses thermo-trai-act-o-mene, a new technology that formulates active alkaline agents, penetrates the membranes of the hair and softens the hair without dissolving its outer layer. When tested, it did soften my hair and left a lot of its natural curl pattern. However, I didn't experience the same longevity as I do with the other sodium hydroxide relaxers.

Copa products are based in Irvine, Calif. Willie Morrow products are based in San Diego.