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Section I.—THE RAW MATERIAL OF HEAVY LEATHERS

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The term "hide" possesses several shades of meaning. In its widest sense it applies to the external covering of all animals, and is sometimes used derogatively for human skin. In this wide sense, it is almost synonymous with the term "skin." The term "hide," however, has a narrower meaning, in which it applies only to the outer covering of the larger animals, and in this sense is used rather in contrast with the term "skin." Thus we speak of horse hides, cow hides, camel hides, and buffalo hides. It is used in this sense in the title of Part I. of this volume. As such hides are from large animals, the leather which is manufactured therefrom is thick and in large pieces, and is therefore commercially designated as "heavy leather." From the standpoint of chemical industry hides are amongst the most important of animal proteins, and their transformation into leather for boots, shoes, belting, straps, harness, and bags comprises the "heavy leather trade," which is one of the largest and most vital industries of the country. The heavy leather trade predominates over other branches of leather manufacture, not only because of the comparatively large weight and value of the material handled, but also because the resulting products have a more essential utility. There is also a still narrower use of the term "hide," in which it applies only to the domesticated cattle—the ox, heifer, bull and cow—which use arises from the fact that the hides of these are both the largest and most valuable portion of the raw material of the heavy leather industries. In a very narrow sense the term is also sometimes applied only to ox hides, which for most heavy leathers are the ideal raw material.

The Home Supply of hides forms a large important proportion of the total raw material. Its importance, moreover, is rapidly increasing, for the excellence and abundance of the home supply determines the extent to which it is necessary for the industry to purchase its raw material abroad. The position of our national finances makes this an increasingly serious matter, for hides are comparatively a very expensive material.

The quality of our home supply of hides is very valuable, being determined by the conditions of the animal's life, its precise breed, and by other factors such as age and sex. The best hides are usually obtained from animals which have been most exposed to extremes of wind and cold, as such conditions tend naturally to develop a thicker and more compact covering. Broadly speaking, these include the hides from cattle of the northern and hilly districts. The age of the animal when killed is also a dominating factor. Calf skins are very soft, fine grained and compact, the state of rapid growth favouring the existence of much interfibrillar substance. The youngest animals supply suitable raw material for various light leathers (see Part II., Section V., p. 120), and are also very suitable for chrome work (see Part III., Section III., p. 156). Bull and cow hides, on the other hand, are from animals whose growth is complete, and show in consequence a lack of interfibrillar substance, coarse fibres and a rough and often wrinkled grain. The resulting leather tends consequently to be spongy, thin, empty and non-waterproof. Intermediate between these extremes are the hides of the ox and heifer, large, yet of good texture, and well supplied with interfibrillar substance. These hides are much the best for sole leather, a firm, smooth-grained and well-filled leather being needed. The term "kip" is often applied to small hides and to hides from large calves. In the trade, however, "kip" is sometimes used also for larger hides, as a verbal enhancement of value; just as a man with a few old fowls is said to keep "chickens." Cow hides tend to be "spready," i.e. to have a large area per unit weight, and are therefore more suitable for dressing leather. Bull hides are thicker in the neck and belly, and thinner in the back, which characteristics reduce their commercial value.

Market hides are sold by weight, and are therefore classified chiefly by their weight, which is marked on near the tail by a system of knife-cuts. The animals are flayed after cutting the hide down the belly and on the inside of the legs.

Of the various breeds, "Shorthorns" yield a large supply of useful hides. The name, however, covers a variety of similar breeds, and the hides therefrom are rather variable in texture and quality. They tend to be greasy owing to high feeding. The "Herefords," obtained from Midland markets, are generally excellent hides for sole and harness leathers. They give a good yield of butt pelt, a stout and smooth shoulder, and are not often greasy. "Devons" yield a good-textured and well-grown hide, but are often badly warbled (see p. 10). The "Sussex" cross-breeds yield somewhat larger hides. "Suffolk Red Polls," common in East Anglia, yield a good butt, and the cow hides make good dressing leather. "Channel Island" cattle yield very thin hides, but with a fine undamaged grain. Scotch hides possess deservedly the very highest reputation. The climatic conditions favour the production of a hardy race of cattle with thick well-grown hides, yielding a large proportion of butt. These hides are amongst the best obtainable for heavy leather, and particularly for sole leather. "Highlanders," "Aberdeen Angus," "Galloways" are typical breeds, with short neck, legs and straight backs. Cross-breeds are also excellent (e.g. "Scotch Shorthorns"). The natural value of these hides is further enhanced by the usual care in flaying. "Ayrshires" yield good milch cows and consequently yield often a more spready hide. The Welsh breeds for rather similar reasons also yield valuable hides. The Irish "Kerrys" are small but stout, and yield hides suitable for light sole leather. Irish cross-breeds, Shorthorns, have a rather bad reputation, and are often ill flayed.

All the varieties of the home supply are subject to various defects, which influence seriously their commercial value. One of these defects is warble holes or marks, caused by the Ox Warble fly (Hypoderma bovis). This is a two-winged fly about half an inch long. The larva of this fly, the "Warble maggot," lives and thrives in the skin of cattle, and causes a sore and swelling. The life-history of this insect is still in dispute, but it is generally thought that the eggs are laid in the hair on the animal's back, and the young larva eats its way through the hide until just below the dermis, and there feeds until mature. It then creeps out of this "warble hole," falls to the ground, pupates for a month, after which the imago or perfect insect emerges from the chrysalis. Hides which have been thus infected have, in consequence, often quite a number of holes through the most valuable part of the hide, thereby rendering it unsuitable for many kinds of leather. Even old "warbles" which have more or less healed up are a weakness, and warbled hides and leather fetch a decidedly lower price than undamaged. Another of these defects is bad flaying. Clearly the hide should be as little cut as possible, but many of our market hides are abominably gashed and often cut right through. This, of course, often reduces seriously the commercial value of the hide. Careless treatment after flaying also results in another common defect, viz. taint. As the term implies, the hide is partly putrefied, sometimes only in patches, but sometimes also so extensively as to render the hide quite rotten and quite incapable of being made into leather at all. Hides are of course putrescible, and dirt, blood, dung and warm weather encourage rapid putrefaction. As market hides are usually uncured, this defect is constantly appearing, and is a cause of considerable loss. Other defects are due to injuries to the animal before it is killed, e.g. brands, scratches due to hedges and barbed wire, old scabs, goad and tar marks. All these reduce the value of the hide.

All the defects in hides involve a very serious loss to the community, and the time is rapidly approaching when their continuance is insufferable. The loss is not usually very considerable to any individual, though very large in the aggregate. The hide is a minor part of the beast's value, and a somewhat damaged hide does not involve a very serious loss to the farmer. Some with typical stupidity regard a few warbles as "the sign of a healthy beast." These defects involve practically no loss to the hide merchant, tanner or currier, as each pays less for damaged material. The loss falls upon the community, and the time is ripe for the community to insist upon the elimination of these defects. The national resources will be for some years strained to their uttermost, and preventable damage must be considered intolerable. The principal defects in hides are preventable, and ought to be prevented. The warble fly could, by a united effort, be rendered before long practically extinct, a task which is facilitated by the fact that it is not migrative. Bad flaying and careless treatment of hides resulting in putrefaction are still more easily remedied. The communal slaughter-house is long overdue from the standpoint of public health, and would, under conditions of cleanliness and skilled workmanship and oversight, also solve the problem of ill-flayed and tainted hides.

The question of the raw material is of first importance to the leather trades. There was, before the commencement of the European War, a steadily increasing scarcity of hides, causing a constant increase in their price. This was due partly to the fact that cattle were increasing at a less rate than the population, partly to the growth of civilization, and more extensive use of leather in proportion to the world's population, and partly to the constant discovery of new uses for leather, e.g. for motor cars, aeronautics, etc. The question of raw material was under these conditions serious enough. The terrific slaughter, necessary at the same time to provide the belligerents with food and the army with leather, is bound to result in a serious crisis for the leather industries; and in conjunction with the country's financial condition, will make it absolutely necessary that all care should be taken with the raw material of one of our most important industries. The farmer who pays no heed to the warble fly, the man who gashes the hide in flaying and who allows the hide to putrefy, are equally criminal with the man who throws bread crusts into the dustbin.

It is impossible to foresee, as yet, anything in the nature of a satisfactory solution to the problem of raw material, especially in respect to heavy leather production, for the food question will rank first in the popular mind, and the earlier slaughter enjoined for the more economical production of meat will scarcely tend to increase the proportion of heavy hides.

The Foreign Supply of hides is also of great importance and value. In the case of imported hides precautions to prevent putrefaction are essential, and some method of "curing" is always used.

Salting the hides is one of the most satisfactory methods for temporary preservation. The action of salt is hygroscopic, and mildly antiseptic. Moisture is withdrawn from the hides, which are then under conditions no longer favouring the growth of bacteria. Well-salted hides will keep for years, especially if quite clean. A light salting is also useful for a short preservation, and is becoming common in hide markets and tanneries during the summer and autumn months. Salting is a method used extensively in the United States. The "packer hides" of the stockyards are carefully and systematically salted with about 25 per cent. of salt and stored in cool cellars. The hides are so piled up in heaps, that brine easily drains away. The great disadvantage of salting is the so-called "salt stains." These stains have been ascribed to the iron in the salt, to the iron in the blood, to calcium sulphate in the salt, and also to chromogenic bacteria, whose development is favoured by salting. The relative importance of these factors is not yet satisfactorily determined, but cleanliness and pure salt tend to eliminate the trouble.

Drying the hides is a less satisfactory cure. The principle is similar, viz. removal of moisture. Dried hides are, however, much drier than salted, and are quite hard and horny, hence the name "flint hides." The hides also lose much weight, a considerable advantage in reducing freight. Tropical hides are often flint-dry, and where preservatives are expensive or unprocurable, it is often the only practicable method of cure. Nevertheless, the method has many serious disadvantages, and is difficult to execute. If dried too slowly the hides putrefy partially; if too quickly they dry on the outside, and the interior is left to putrefy. The fact that hides are of uneven thickness, and the climate often hot, increases the difficulty, and often results in partial destruction of the fibrous structure of the hide. When dried, moreover, the hides are still subject to the attacks of insect larvæ, for the prevention of which the usual sprinkling of naphthalene or arsenic is only an imperfect remedy. This method of cure is also a nuisance to the tanner, who has to employ labour, pits and time in attempting to restore the hides to their original condition, and often loses up to ten per cent. of the goods in so doing. Dried hides are also subject to the presence of anthrax.

Dry Salting the hides is an excellent method of curing. As the name implies, it combines methods of drying and salting which are used alternatively. The method is used extensively in South America. A modified form of it is also used for preserving the "E.I. kips," which are cured, however, not with common salt, but with earth containing up to 70 per cent. of sodium sulphate. Dry-salted hides are largely free from the defects of dried hides, but of course are more trouble to the tanner in the process of soaking (see Section II., p. 16) than the wet-salted goods.

Freezing the hides is now a commercial process. On the whole the process is satisfactory, but the expansion of water after freezing may tend to damage the hide fibres.

Sterilizing the hides has been frequently suggested, but no method has yet been advocated which does not interfere either with the tanning processes or with the quality of the finished leather.

Hides from the European Continent, usually wet salted and well flayed, exhibit much the same variable quality as the home supply, those from highland districts tending to be thick, yet even, well grown, tight textured and smooth grained, whilst those from lowland regions are less satisfactory. Thus hides from the Swiss Alps and Scandinavia have ranked high, whilst the spready Dutch cows are typical of a lowland hide. In the hides which once came from Germany the same features appear. Bavarian highland hides had an excellent reputation, whilst those from Berlin, Cologne, etc., tended to be long in shank and not well grown. French hides are often ill flayed, and Spanish and Portuguese are often subject to scratches. Italian hides have a very good name, being small but stout in butt.

The American supply is important. South America yields an excellent class of hide, salted or dry-salted. They are from an excellent breed of animals, slaughtered and flayed with every care, and efficiently cured. A most serious defect in this class of hide is the "brand," which is both deep and large and in the most valuable part of the hide. One side, however, is usually unbranded, so that each hide yields one good "bend." These hides, e.g. "Frigorifics," have recently been much more extensively tanned in Britain because of the shortage in the home supply of market hides caused by the European War. South America also yields good horse hides. North American hides are usually wet-salted (e.g. packer hides). They are usually good. Central America yields mostly dried hides exhibiting usual defects.

The Asiatic supply comprises the frozen China hides, which are clean but small, with flaying of uncertain quality. There are the buffalo hides from Asia and East Europe, which are suitable for cheap and sole and strap leather, and also the dry-salted "E.I. kips," obtained from a small breed of Indian cattle, and extensively made into upper leather. The Asiatic humped cattle also provide a limited supply. The African supply is of increasing importance. The tropical parts yield dried hides of uncertain quality, but the more temperate parts of South Africa yield a growing supply of good quality.


REFERENCES.

"The Manufacture of Leather" (Bennett), pp. 27-37.

"Principles of Leather Manufacture" (Procter), pp. 33-56.

"The Ox Warble or Bot Fly" (E. Ormerod).

"The Making of Leather" (Procter), pp. 2-22.

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