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Pen yr Ole Wen (978m)

The inelegant bulk of Pen yr Ole Wen protrudes south from the main mass of the Carneddau, introducing a kink into the Ogwen Valley where the outflow from Llyn Ogwen gushes down into the broad U-shaped valley of the Nant Ffrancon. For those based in the Ogwen Valley this is the most accessible of the Carneddau peaks, offering unrivalled views of the northern crags and cwms of the Glyders.

Unaccountably, the most popular walking route zig-zags up the unpleasant and exhausting south spur from Ogwen Cottage; connoisseurs choose the scenic and comparatively gentle East Ridge. An ascent of Pen yr Ole Wen by either route is generally regarded as a mere preliminary to a traverse of the higher Carneddau peaks.

The featureless south east slope above Llyn Ogwen holds no interest for the scrambler, whereas the pseudo-alpine west (or Braich Ty Du) face, ribbed with ridges and riven with gullies, promises all sorts of adventure. Otherwise the best scrambling will be found at the head of Cwm Lloer, tucked out of sight behind the East Ridge.

ROUTE 2

Braich Ty Du Face (including Pinnacle Ridge and Porcupine Ridge) 2+

Exposed scrambling on an introductory ridge followed by a big hike to reach the rock arêtes of the upper face that lead, with increasing difficulty and excitement, to the summit slopes.

Location	Pen yr Ole Wen, Ogwen (SH 648 611)
Grade	2+**
Approach time	15min
Altitude and aspect	360m, west
Route length	Despite the short approach, a lengthy outing with over 500m of height gain – allow plenty of time. Pinnacle Ridge on its own offers a quick burst of scrambling when time is limited.
Conditions	West-facing and quick-drying, this is a good choice when the north faces are likely to be cold or damp. Nevertheless, it is worth waiting for dry rock, especially for the airy pinnacles. The less-frequented Porcupine Ridge requires an astute judgement of holds, although the rock is generally sound. Good visibility is vital for the approach to Porcupine Ridge.

A huge, complex face of ribs and gullies rises above the Nant Ffrancon Pass, appearing to provide endless opportunities for the scrambler. Unfortunately there are two main drawbacks: first, a large part of the lower slope consists of unstable scree which threatens to cascade onto the road at the first ill-judged step and thus limits the access; and second, a wide band of heather at mid-height seriously affects continuity. The selected route does its best to avoid both scree and heather and despite its shortcomings redeems itself with some exciting situations and, on the upper face, a genuine sense of exploration.

Many parties will choose to ascend only the easily accessible and popular Pinnacle Ridge – a good outing when short on time. For those intrepid enough to venture onwards to the Porcupine Ridge, they will find it surpasses the first ridge and is worth every drop of sweat exerted in reaching it. There is, perhaps, no better place to be in the late afternoon sunshine than on the Porcupine Ridge.

Approach

Park at Ogwen Cottage (SH 649 604) – approximately 150m east of YHA Idwal Cottage – or at the overspill parking areas further east. Leave the A5 at the Alfred Embleton stile, on the north side of the road bridge over the stream outlet from Llyn Ogwen, and follow the main Pen yr Ole Wen path for 80m. Turn left on a grassy path near some round stone shelters and follow the well-walked path to the base of the couloir on the right of the distinctive slender twin pinnacles that become identifiable on the approach. Ascend the couloir directly until a low dry stone wall is reached. A clear path accesses a scrappy part of the ridge 10m below the wall, although a pleasant grass gangway 10m above the wall provides the best access to the ridge.

Ascent

Use the gangway to gain the ridge. Follow the crest to a ledge then ascend a 3m step, slightly on the right using large holds, to gain another ledge. An exposed traverse of the pinnacles awaits. They can be taken on their couloir flank leading to a heather shoulder and slender grass col, but few will want to miss the photogenic ascent of the second pinnacle. This can be climbed and traversed on its west side at an exposed and exciting upper-end grade 2. (The first pinnacle is a much trickier undertaking, especially the descent from its top; it receives a V-Diff climbing grade and should only be considered by roped climbing parties.) Pinnacle Ridge ends at the slender grass col, where a path down the couloir leads back to the approach.

At the first pinnacle of the Braich Ty Du Face, with the profile of Yr Esgair beyond

For adventurous scramblers the next objective is the cluster of ribs seen on the left side of the upper face – but steel yourself for a big hike. A broad, steep and grassy couloir – often wet and slippery – above and slightly left of Pinnacle Ridge avoids a blocky buttress and emerges onto an open slope of grass and heather. Alternatively, the couloir on the right of the blocky buttress is circuitous but drier and easier (its hidden east face offers various lines of roughly Diff standard) – at its top use a sheep path to move back left.

Plod up heather and scree (ignore any well-worn transverse sheep paths) towards a line of low, broken outcrops that are passed on their right. (The first outcrop gives a heathery scramble.) Take a rising leftward line to gain the left skyline ridge with an obvious cracked triangular face near its base set above a collection of spikes which, without stretching our imagination too far, we could call the Porcupine. (There is a second ridge over to the right across a couloir that has an imposing overhanging prow on it.)

Start in the middle of the porcupine spines and head up to reach the cracked triangular face where the rocks coalesce into a continuous ridge. Tackle the triangular face by moving rightwards across it to gain its right edge, which is then followed to its apex. Continue up the crest towards a substantial rise of clean rock, which appears to bar the way. This is craftily surmounted. Bear slightly left to gain height. Then, standing on a block and facing right (east) across the arête just beyond the front of its imposing wall, pull over a rib to land in a groove at the top of which is a well of boulders.

The groove is escaped by means of a shallow rectangular channel leading up to the knife-edged crest of the ridge and an airy position. Continue along the knife-edge and descend to a notch by means of its right side using a prominent shark’s tooth-shaped horn. Continue up the crest using an awkward-to-enter sentry box en route to the next impending wall. This is clearly too steep for the scrambler, so head round to its left side and west face where two options present themselves:

 Climb its west face – steep but on excellent holds. Scuttle along the crest and drop down its east side to gain the tilted platform of a large block.

 A wide rectangular ramp leads up to the block. The right side of this is less steep, but more awkward than it looks; its cracks can be disconcertingly greasy. Use the channel formed by its right edge to gain height and at the top of the ramp hand-traverse left on excellent flaky holds beneath the block to gain its top more easily.

The steep, heavily featured wall above the block is – somewhat surprisingly – too difficult. Unfortunately the scrambler must sidle right from the block and gain an awkward heather runnel. Head up this and rejoin the crest.

Eventually the ridge falls back into a knife-edge and finally turns to grass as it abuts the supporting mass of the mountain. The path of the South Spur walking route is close by and soon leads to the summit.

Descents and combinations

The knee-wrecking South Spur provides the quickest and most convenient return to the start. Otherwise, descend by the East Ridge (see Route 1). It is a pity to waste hard-won altitude so this route makes an excellent alternative start to a traverse of the Carneddau ridges (Route 1), although with some imagination and boundless energy the Llech Ddu Spur (Route 5) could be descended and the east ridge of Black Ladders (Route 6) ascended to give a magnificent link-up.

ROUTE 3

Broad Gully Ridge 2+

An attractive setting with slightly less attractive ridge scrambling.

Location	Cwm Lloer, Pen yr Ole Wen (SH 659 619)
Grade	2+*
Approach time	45min
Altitude and aspect	690m, north
Route length	An undertaking of moderate length. Height gain approximately 210m.
Conditions	This is an unpopular and vegetated north-facing crag and so the rocks, although generally reliable, are occasionally lichenous and greasy. Best after prolonged dry weather.

Easy-angled rock on the inner flank of Pen yr Ole Wen is generally too vegetated for much worthwhile scrambling. This route finds the best of the rock, although its main purpose is to prolong time spent within the enchanting hollow of Cwm Lloer. Its merits should be judged accordingly.

Near the left side of the craggy headwall, the prominent couloir of Broad Gully extends from the floor of the cwm to the crest of the East Ridge. The route weaves up the blunt ridge to its left.

Approach

Via the A5 from Capel Curig or Bethesda. Park on the roadside near the bridge at Glan Dena (SH 668 605). Follow the track past Glan Dena almost to Tal y Llyn Farm. Turn right on a path by a stone wall, later crossing the wall by a ladder stile. Follow the stream, generally on its left side to avoid bogs. A faint path branching off from roughly 100m before the steeper rocks of the east face leads to Ffynnon Lloer. Passing the lake on its left side, continue towards the headwall and impressive face of Craig Lloer (Route 4). On nearing Craig Lloer, Broad Gully can be seen properly for the first time hidden on the left. Broad Gully Ridge ascends the blunt arête to the left of Broad Gully.

High above Ffynnon Lloer on Broad Gully Ridge

Ascent

From the lowest point of the left-bounding ridge, move up right 15m to a short compact rib that forms a second toe of the ridge. This is gained from its right side with an awkward step to get off the ground. Above are two longer left-to-right rising ribs with a grassy runnel in the middle. Either ribs or runnel can be climbed, with the upper, longer rib proving the hardest and best route. Continue to a ledge beneath an intimidating blank wall. The wall is too hard. Do not be tempted by the slippery vegetation of the easier-angled terrain on the right. Instead, move left to climb the diagonal left edge of the blank wall (an escape to easy terrain just left is always available). A prominent large pyramid face of compact rock now looms above and bars the way.

Roughly 6m to the left of the pyramid face are two obvious wedged boulders. These are often hazardously greasy and much harder than they look. They can be climbed directly at a tough little grade 3 (a fall from here is unthinkable). Much better is to reach the bottom wedged block, then facing left make a challenging heave to cross over the left-bounding rib. A gentle groove with an untrustworthy spike in it provides recovery. Climb the groove and rib then move right to cross above the line of the wedged boulders and ascend a short crack to gain another rib crest. Above, romp over boulders and heather to a scree shoulder.

Continue towards a short, shallow couloir. It is best to divert right for a final flourish on rock – although the steeper left-hand rock can be climbed or the shallow couloir trudged up – before exiting onto the East Ridge. The upper part of the East Ridge leads to the summit in about 10 minutes.

Descents and combinations

Descend by the East Ridge path. Alternatively, descend steeply angled grass and scree at the head of the cwm, flanking the north side of Craig Lloer (the Craig Lloer Spur (Route 4) can be reached using this alternative descent). See Route 2 for further combinations.

ROUTE 4

Craig Lloer Spur 3-

A fine short line of great exposure in a delightfully secluded cwm.

Location	Cwm Lloer, Pen yr Ole Wen (SH 658 621)
Grade	3-**
Approach time	45min
Altitude and aspect	730m, east
Route length	One of the shorter lines, it goes much more quickly than might be expected from below. Roughly 210m vertical height gain.
Conditions	Craig Lloer catches the morning sun and dries quickly.
Topo	See Route 3

Sustained scrambling begins and ends on the compact buttress of Craig Lloer, a triangular crag truncating the shallow spur that protrudes into the head of the cwm. The airy traverse proves to be the key to an ascent of the buttress. Although of exhilarating exposure, positive holds are always close at hand. An escape is available before the traverse for those unfamiliar with what are essentially rock climbing situations.

Approach

As for Route 3, then head up to gain the left edge of the crag near the entrance to its left-bounding gully (in fact a broad couloir with several branches).

Ascent

Avoid a group of tilted blocks at the foot of the ridge via a 6m slab on the right (the blocks can be avoided more easily on the left, although the slab gives a useful foretaste of the difficulties to come).

Above, ignore easy ground to the left and ascend over small blocks to a larger one split by a 3m crack. A solid hand-jam gets you started and good holds reward a confident step up the crack. There are large belay spikes above if required. Continue easily for 12m or so until stopped by a slabby but hopelessly smooth wall (the last escape into the couloir).

From a belay block, traverse obvious heather ledges rightwards to their end. Continue the traverse via a surprising hand-rail flake to arrive at a perch on the right edge in a position of breathtaking exposure. Positive holds above offer great reassurance. Pull over the first rise then mantelshelf (or belly flop) onto another flat ledge with a block belay beyond. The major difficulties are now over.

On the exhilaratingly exposed traverse of Craig Lloer Spur

The apex of the buttress is not far above; gain it via heathery scrambling with a few interesting moments on curious, knobbly rock. The tedious scree of the broader upper spur requires a plod to either a simple scrambling exit through the final barrier wall or, better, by tackling the front face of its large left-hand section via a recess and tricky giant flake. Turn right at the top to reach the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen.

Descents and combinations

See Route 3.