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Carnedd Llewelyn (1064m)

Carnedd Llewelyn, the highest peak of the group, occupies a key position at the junction of the two major Carneddau pathways. Its four supporting ridges are aligned approximately south, west, north and east. The southern ridge drops gently to the shallow col of Bwlch Cyfryw-drum (a descent into Cwm Llafar is possible from here) before curving west above the cliffs of Black Ladders and rising to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd. The short west ridge drops only to a high col before rising again to the summit of Yr Elen, a major satellite peak. The north ridge extends in gradual descent towards Foel Grach, Foel Fras and the gentle hills beyond. Finally, the east ridge curves south east, passing above the cliffs of Craig yr Ysfa, and dips to the pronounced col of Bwlch Eryl Farchog before rising again to the summit of Pen yr Helgi Du. All ridges apart from the west ridge carry well-used paths.

The only face of any real interest to the scrambler is that of Craig yr Ysfa, which lies some distance from the summit on the flanks of the east/south east ridge. The cliff is hidden from most viewpoints, and so a special effort is required even to inspect what’s on offer. There is even an unlikely story that would have us believe the cliff was discovered by telescope from Scafell.

Although the cliffs are extensive, heather covers much of the easier-angled rock, while loose rock or vegetation fills the most promising gullies. The selected scramble avoids the worst by finding a comparatively uncomplicated exit from the huge central Amphitheatre. The Amphitheatre is in fact a deep, square-cut recess set above a sloping bed of scree. It is bounded on the right by a 90m-high vertical wall of superb rock, Mur y Niwl – host to some of the best Carneddau rock climbs – and on the left by the 300m-long terraced rib of Amphitheatre Buttress – a classic V-Diff rock climb.

ROUTE 7

Craig yr Ysfa Amphitheatre 2+

The central ravine of a remote cliff is escaped via slabs, a short gully and a natural staircase of rock steps.

Location	Craig yr Ysfa, Carnedd Llewelyn (SH 694 637)
Grade	2+*
Approach time	1hr 30min from Tal y Bont or 1hr 45min from the Ogwen Valley via Bwlch Eryl Farchog
Altitude and aspect	700m, east
Route length	Surprisingly short considering the crag it breaches. Height gain approximately 150m.
Conditions	One short section of this route has been affected by erosion and requires caution to avoid dislodging hazardous blocks. Otherwise the rock is mainly sound on the difficult bits. The cliff gets the morning sun in summer. Dries relatively quickly.

Hopes for an easy exit from Craig yr Ysfa’s Amphitheatre fade when the options are viewed from its confines. None of the lines appear entirely free of complication. The right-hand gully (D Gully) presents the least number of obstacles so received the honour of selection, although some may feel the route lacks stature. The route ought to be valued for its majestic setting more than for the quality of its scrambling, which proves limited.

Approach

 The first option is via Cwm Eigiau. From Tal y Bont on the B5106 between Conwy and Llanrwst, follow a road rising westwards out of the village (not the road to Llanbedr-y-Cennin) for about 5km. Park at the roadhead at the entrance to Cwm Eigiau (SH 732 663), taking care not to obstruct the gate. Walk along a rough track to the Llyn Eigiau dam. Follow the main left branch of the track to cross the outflow. Continue by the lower track and follow it through the cwm to its terminus at ruined quarry buildings. Take a path initially on the left side of the cwm to avoid the worst of the marshy ground. Head up towards the left side of the crag, dodging the bulk of the scree, and join a rising traverse path leading to the Amphitheatre (SH 694 637).

 The second option is from the A5 in the Ogwen Valley. Park in a lay-by at the start of the reservoir access road (SH 688 603) or the car park for the campsite (small fee). Walk up towards Ffynnon Llugwy Reservoir but leave the road where it veers left towards the lake outflow. Continue by the path that rises to the prominent col of Bwlch Eryl Farchog. Descend heather slopes leftwards (looking out) via a path on the far side and follow its arc beneath the main buttress to gain the scree fan below the Amphitheatre.

Ascent

The broad, scree-covered Amphitheatre bed rises steeply to a series of ribs and gullies, at the right-hand side of which will be found a short slimy and mossy gully. It is bounded on its right by an imposing steep crag and has slabs to its left. Use the slabs to gain a small recess above the nasty bottom of the gully. To exit the recess a pile of unstable blocks embedded in eroded soil are hazardous and require caution: ensure seconds are out of the debris line and use the solid rib on the right to progress up to a second recess.

The second recess has two exits:

 For the best and safest line, head up the left gully branch (actually C Gully) for a few metres to a large chockstone. Avoid tackling the chockstone directly; instead use the left wall to gain height before moving back onto it. From here an easy if exposed traverse rightwards leads back to the original gully line.

 A harder exit right via good holds leads up a short, steep wall that is often wet and slippery – at which times it is best avoided. Step left to gain a clean, slanting slab which is climbed with difficulty in a precarious position.

Pick the easiest line leftwards to gain a series of clean rock staircases that zig-zag to the top. A right turn leads up the ridge path up to the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn.

Foxgloves at the starting slabs of Craig yr Ysfa Ampitheatre

Descent by this route

Not recommended without prior knowledge of the route and a thorough assessment having been made of the hazardous section.

Descents and combinations

From the top of Craig yr Ysfa there are several options:

 After emerging from the Amphitheatre, turn left to follow the ridge path via a simple scramble down a rock nose to Bwlch Eryl Farchog. Refer to the approach notes for continuing the descent into Cwm Eigiau or the Ogwen Valley.

 For a more interesting return to the Ogwen Valley, follow Route 1 in reverse over Carnedd Dafydd and Pen yr Ole Wen or its conclusion over Pen yr Helgi Du.

 Route 6 can be reached using its second approach (from the main Carnedd ridge path).