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Carnedd Dafydd (1044m)

Despite its great bulk, Carnedd Dafydd asserts its character only on the north western approach through Cwm Llafar. Viewed from elsewhere, its summit and flanks blend into the high ground of a ridge system which links the six highest Carneddau peaks. Rarely is it ascended for its own sake.

Scrambling interest is confined to the north face of the mountain – the Cwm Llafar flank. This headwall, evocatively named ‘Black Ladders’, is one of the most dramatic in Snowdonia. Although a rich source of winter climbs, its dripping tiers of rock do not invite attention in summer. Only on neighbouring Llech Ddu, the truncating cliff of Crib Lem, will you see rock climbers, and then only during the driest weather. With two exceptions the scrambling is disappointing, most of the obvious lines being either too vegetated or too loose for full enjoyment. Remoteness and atmosphere compensate.

ROUTE 5

Crib Lem (Llech Ddu Spur) 1

Simple, perfectly situated scrambling on the short and comparatively safe steps of a prominent ridge leading directly to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd.

Location	Llech Ddu, Carnedd Dafydd (SH 665 635)
Grade	1***
Approach time	1hr
Altitude and aspect	700m, north
Route length	Offers substantial scrambling. Height gain approximately 300m.
Conditions	Despite its north-facing aspect and high altitude, the ridge dries quickly. The rock is reliable, and the route’s popularity keeps it clear of moss and lichen.

An enchanting approach to Carnedd Dafydd through the long, secluded valley of Cwm Llafar abruptly changes to one of menace at the point where Llech Ddu Crag towers above the path. This compact 100m-high cliff guards entry to a long, low-angled ridge of alternating rock and grass arêtes that leads directly to the summit. Flank the cliff and this line – the finest scramble in the Carneddau – is yours.

Approach

Turn uphill off the A5 at the crossroads at the eastern extremity of Bethesda on Braichmelyn Road. Turn right at the crossroads in 1km to Gerlan. There are a few parking spots on the narrow lane, or alternatively park further down the hill. Continue through Gerlan, following the main right-hand fork of the lane and crossing a bridge over the Afon Llafar.

Just before the old waterworks gate follow the footpath sign initially up a private road, and cross a stile on the right. Cross a second stile at the top left corner of the field, and a third shortly after. Follow the track to open ground. Take the path, vague at first, that ascends parallel to the Afon Llafar to enter Cwm Llafar. Continue by a good path to huge boulders below the crag of Llech Ddu (SH 666 637). Ascend to the right of the crag to enter the hollow of Cwmglas Bach.

Ascent

Resist gaining the crest of the spur directly and instead ascend into the cwm almost to the level of the deep-cut left-hand gully that splits Craig y Cwmglas Bach, at which point a ramp of grass and stones slanting diagonally left between bands of rock will be revealed. This leads without complication to a shoulder with a large block of quartz on it on the spur above Llech Ddu Crag.

Ascend through seemingly compact rock on the right side of the broad frontage to gain the narrower and less steeply inclined upper crest. Avoiding the many paths, follow the crest and its myriad crampon scars directly over several knife-edges and short steps to the stony summit dome.

Soaring high on the crest of the Llech Ddu Spur

Descent by this route

A reasonable proposition once located. When peering down from the convex summit slopes, several similar-looking spurs can be seen protruding into the cwm. Crib Lem protrudes furthest. A band of scree across the broad lower spur signals the approach of Llech Ddu Crag (beware!) and the need to bear left (looking out) to find the grassy ramp at the distinct lump of quartz leading into Cwmglas Bach. Many have chosen a descent to the right (looking out) down soil and scree – ideal if approaching the Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders (Route 6).

Descents and combinations

To return to Bethesda/Gerlan:

 Best of all, complete the Cwm Llafar horseshoe: follow the ridge east over Black Ladders and round to Carnedd Llewelyn, then head west to Yr Elen. From its summit head north west past the outcrop of Foel Gannol, and at a second outcrop bear west over steady slopes to regain the outward route at the river.

 Descend north west from the summit of Carnedd Dafydd along the delightful Cwm Llafar Ridge over Mynydd Du, joining the approach path at the entrance to the cwm.

 To return to the foot of the cliffs, follow Route 1 east until well beyond the Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders (Route 6) and then descend grass and boulder slopes into the head of Cwm Llafar.

Scrambling down the diamond-shaped block on the Llech Ddu Spur

ROUTE 6

Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders 2

A distinctive outing up shadowy cliffs on the huge headwall of a remote cwm.

Location	Cwm Llafar, Carneddau (SH 673 633)
Grade	2*
Approach time	1hr 15min
Altitude and aspect	800m, north west
Route length	One of the shorter routes, but lengthier than might be expected while approaching it. Height gain approximately 150m.
Conditions	North-facing at high altitude so often wet. The rock is rough and positive, although it is rarely ascended so watch for occasional loose rock. It is worth waiting for dry conditions.
Topo	See Route 5

The upper basin of Cwm Llafar terminates in the crescent walls of the Black Ladders. Upper ridge crests glow attractively in the afternoon sun while shady lower walls ooze ugliness and impregnability. Almost no-one comes here in summer. The solitary scramble on this face takes the ridge of the left-bounding buttress which, broad and poorly defined, only gathers itself into a recognisable line at two-thirds height. Nonetheless, the atmosphere is terrific and the scramble is deceptively long and interesting.

Approach

There are two logical approaches:

 As for Route 5 to the huge boulders below Llech Ddu. Continue towards the head of the cwm over man-trapping boulders, then trend left to arrive beneath the easternmost rocks of the face.

 It is also possible to descend from the main Carnedd ridge path, starting around SH 678 634 then trending west north west (if doing so, it is reassuring to drop below the band of black dripping rock to confirm your position on the face).

Ascent

A broad-based buttress tapering to a ridge defines the left side of the Black Ladders. As elsewhere on the cliffs, horizontal bands of dark dripping rock prevent a direct approach to the foot of the buttress proper. These are best flanked on the left, followed by a rising traverse back right when the terrain eases. This approach gains the buttress at the same level as the start of East Gully, the foot of which is also terminated prematurely by the black-dripping banding.

On Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders with the Menai Strait beyond

Although there are many possible lines to take on the buttress, even the easiest of them involves some awkward steps. Stay with the rough steep rock on the crest just to the left of the gully as much as possible. A little higher the gully to your right splits with a rib in its middle: stay left, continuing directly on the narrowing ridge for the best scrambling. A final steepening can be avoided on the left.

The route emerges suddenly onto level ground with the main Carneddau ridge path nearby. The summit of Carnedd Dafydd lies a few minutes away to the west.

Descents and combinations

As for Route 5.