Читать книгу Scrambles in Snowdonia - Rachel Crolla - Страница 21

Tryfan (917m)

Tryfan’s distinctive shape dominates the view when approaching Llyn Ogwen from either direction along the A5 road. Pundits say you can’t climb the mountain without at some point using your hands for support. Two erect monoliths, Adam and Eve, tip the spectacular summit; daring extroverts will entertain the gathering by attempting the traditional leap from one to the other.

‘Adam and Eve’: the twin monoliths on the summit of Tryfan

The backbone of Tryfan is composed of two ridges: the more prominent North Ridge descends towards the A5 road and east shore of Llyn Ogwen, while the shorter and less dramatic South Ridge provides a link to Glyder Fach. The faces that support this spine – east and west – are both impressively rocky. The ascent route most used by walkers approaches from Ogwen Cottage via Cwm Bochlwyd then takes the South Ridge by its west side.

Above the prominent ramp of the Heather Terrace, which slants across the East Face, stands a series of high buttresses separated by deep gullies. These are the lines of the best-known rock climbs and scrambles on the mountain. Apart from the accessible Milestone Buttress, the huge but heather-choked West Face is largely ignored by both rock climbers and scramblers and is a good choice for the misanthropic.

Pausing for the mandatory Cannon Stone shot (Route 19)

TRYFAN EAST FACE

ROUTE 9

Tryfan Bach Approach 3

Exposed and sustained scrambling on the large, polished holds of a slabby face followed by a blunt ridge.

Location	Ogwen (SH 672 602)
Grade	3***
Approach time	10min
Altitude and aspect	360m, west
Route length	A brief burst of sustained scrambling with plenty of hands-on interest. Height gain approximately 90m.
Conditions	The slab faces west and so catches the sun from midday onwards. The clean rock soon dries out after rain, although the difficult step on the upper ridge could remain greasy for some time. The slab section swarms with novice rock climbers throughout the summer.

Thousands of would-be climbers first clutch at ropes and rock on the slabby wedge of Tryfan Bach. There are good reasons for including an ascent as a prelude to a day on the East Face of Tryfan. First, the line of deep cracks up the left side of the slabs is the ideal route on which to practise rope techniques that might be required on more serious grade 3 scrambles. Second, it enlivens the approach to the Heather Terrace.