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CONTENTS

Map key

Area covered by the guide

Preface to the second edition

Updaters’ note

Introduction

Area covered by the guide

Selection of routes

Using this guide (including explanation of grades)

Equipment

Basic rope technique

Maps

Access

Bases

Public transport

Accidents and emergencies

A final cautionary note

THE CARNEDDAU

Route 1 Southern Ridge Circuit 1-***

Pen yr Ole Wen

Route 2 Braich Ty Du Face (including Pinnacle Ridge and Porcupine Ridge) 2+**

Route 3 Broad Gully Ridge 2+*

Route 4 Craig Lloer Spur 3-**

Carnedd Dafydd

Route 5 Crib Lem (Llech Ddu Spur) 1***

Route 6 Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders 2*

Carnedd Llewelyn

Route 7 Craig yr Ysfa Amphitheatre 2+*

THE GLYDERS

Route 8 Cwm Bochlwyd Horseshoe 1*** CB

Tryfan

Tryfan East Face

Route 9 Tryfan Bach Approach 3***

Approach and orientation for the Heather Terrace, East face of Tryfan

Route 10 Bastow Buttress Variant 2+***

Route 11 Nor’ Nor’ Buttress Variant 3** or 3S**

Route 12 Nor’ Nor’ Gully 2+*

Route 13 Nor’ Nor’ Groove 1+*

Route 14 North Buttress Variant 2**

Route 15 Little and North Gullies 1**

Route 16 Pinnacle Rib Variant 3**

Route 17 South Gully 3-*

Route 18 South Buttress 3**

Tryfan West Face

Route 19 North Ridge 1*** CB

Route 20 Milestone Buttress Approach 3**

Route 21 Milestone Gully Approach 1+**

Route 22 Milestone Continuation 3**

Route 23 Wrinkled Tower (aka Wrinkled Slabs and Castle Chimney) 3S***

Route 24 West Face Route 3*

Route 25 V Buttress 3**

Route 26 V Arête 3*

Route 27 Notch Arête 2***

Route 28 Y Gully 2*

Route 29 South Ridge Direct 1* CB

Glyder Fach

Route 30 Bristly Ridge 1*** CB

Route 31 The Chasm Face 3***

Route 32 Main Gully 1+**

Route 33 Main Gully Ridge 3*** or 2***

Route 34 East Gully Ridge 3***

Route 35 East Gully 1+*

Route 36 Shark Buttress 3S***

Route 37 Dolmen Ridge 3***

Glyder Fawr

Route 38 Gribin Ridge 1* CB

Route 39 False Gribin 1*

Route 40 Cneifion Arête 3***

Route 41 Maybe Tower Rib 3*

Route 42 Seniors’ Ridge 1*

Route 43 Seniors’ Gully 1-*

Route 44 Direct Approach to Seniors’ Ridge 2*

Route 45 Idwal Staircase and Continuation 2+***

Route 46 North West Face Route (aka Idwal Buttress) 2**

Route 47 Bryant’s Gully (aka False Bryant’s Gully or Nant Ettws) 2+*** ♠

Route 48 Esgair Felen Direct 2+* ♠

Y Garn

Route 49 Devil’s Kitchen and the Sheep Walk 3S*** or 1-*

Route 50 East Ridge 2**

Foel Goch

Route 51 South Arête 1+*

Route 52 Needle’s Eye Arête 3*

Route 53 Yr Esgair 3S*

Carnedd y Filiast

Route 54 The Ridge (aka Atlantic Ridge) 2+**

SNOWDON GROUP

Route 55 The Snowdon Horseshoe 1*** S

Crib Goch

Route 56 East Ridge 1* S

Route 57 North Ridge 1*

Route 58 Jammed Boulder Gully 3S**

Route 59 Traverse of Crib Goch 1*** S

Crib y Ddysgl (Garnedd Ugain)

Route 60 Crib y Ddysgl 1** S

Route 61 Cwm Glas Mawr Approach 1+* or 3S*

Route 62 Clogwyn y Person Arête (including Parson’s Nose options) 3*** or 3S***

Route 63 Cwm Glas Ridge 1-*

Route 64 Llechog Buttress 2**

Route 65 Llechog Ridge 2-*

Route 66 Eastern Terrace of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu 1+**

Route 67 Western Terrace of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu 3*

Snowdon

Route 68 Tregalan Couloir 2*

Route 69 Y Gribin and the East Ridge 1**

Lliwedd

Route 70 Traverse of Lliwedd 1** S

Route 71 West Peak via Bilberry Terrace 3S***

EIFIONYDD

Route 72 Nantlle Ridge 1-***

Craig Cwm Silyn

Route 73 Craig Fawr Rib (aka LMH) 3**

Mynydd Mawr

Route 74 Sentries’ Ridge and Continuation 3-***

Route 75 Bear Buttress 3S*

OUTLYING AREAS

The Moelwyns

Route 76 Moel Siabod Ridge Circuit (including Daear Ddu Ridge) 1-***

The Rhinogs

Route 77 South Face of Rhinog Fawr 2-*

Route 78 South Ridge Variant, Rhinog Fach (aka Hywel Ridge) 3-**

Cadair Idris

Route 79 Cyfrwy Arête (including Table Direct option) 3*** or 3S***

Conwy

Route 80 Penmaenbach Arête 1+**

Appendix A Summary of routes in grade order

Appendix B Longer combination ideas

Appendix C Useful contacts


Scrambles in Snowdonia

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